Receptacle Box With Pink Insulation and Panel Box Enclosure

Hi, Is it safe to have a receptable power outlet box surrounded by pink home insulation?? How would i go about installing another power outlet in the pic below?? Also, what are some good ways of concealing that big ugly panel box while still providing easy access??? Here are some pics of the room By the way, what program are you guys using to create a layout of your studios??? Thanks

Welcome to the forum! To answer your specific question, it's probably fine. However, that assumes that you're not overloading the circuit. But generally speaking, having an electrical box surrounded by fiberglass insulation is done all the time. I use Visio for my drawings, only because that's something that my employer issued laptop has installed on it. Others use SmartDraw and Sketchup. Some just use Paint. I'm sure there are others. Even though you just had a quick and easy question, it's best that you follow all the guidelines in the "Before You Post" announcement. Among the many important points made there is editing your profile so that we know where in the world you are. Advice given is very often dependent on the availability and relative expense of building materials, not to mention climate considerations. Tell us more about your project! 8) --Keith :mrgreen:

Soon as you re-read the blue link in Keith's post, I'll tell you how to do it; not being stubborn (well, maybe a little :? ) just need to know where you are in this case for possible code reasons. BTW, don't cover that outlet with wallboard yet... Steve

alright, heres my layout and a few shots of the ceiling ill be using this room to do mixings and such its not that big so can't throw in a set of drums by the way, do you think im going overboard with the pot lights?? the yellow circles are pot lights my budget is about 1000-1500 bucks

Is sound isolation important to you? Are the "pot lights" the same as "recessed cans"? If so, I wouldn't use them -- they'll be big holes in your isolation. --Keith :mrgreen:

sound isolation is no biggy and yes, they are 3" recessed lights how would i go about wiring through that fiberglass insulation??? thanks again

If you are going to use "pot" lights (you don't mean "grow" lights do you? :-) ), make sure you get the kind that can have insulation all around them. In case you or someone else doesn't know, there are two types. One can have insulation all around and on top of them, and the other (usually cheaper) type, have to have a 3" minimum clearance around them to avoid a fire. This means you'd have to "box" them in and you'd then have a "hole" in your isolation. As to going overboard, it's a matter of power (more lights=higher electric bill and more heat). If it were me and I was going to put in that many lights, I'd try and group them into two three sets that can be turned on and off individually to set the mood. I've found that the amount of light that works well for mixing isn't nearly enough for construction purposes. One advantage you'd have by having at least two separate circuits is that you could power one set through a UPS in case the power goes out so you could safely get out of the room. I've found that if I loose power in my studio and I'm not in the reception area, I have to stop and think about where I am and where I just left everything on the floor to avoid breaking my neck. Unfortunately, I've got all my wiring covered up now so I'm going to be installing emergency lighting in all the rooms to avoid liability problems (and skinned knees) :-) len

of course i mean grow lights i want a jungle studio anyways, how am i going to hide that stupid electrical panel while still having access?? how do i do it????

Since almost every room I've seen here and elsewhere has corner absorbers/bass traps, why not make one that also covers this box? What I'd do is make it a completely standalone unit (sealed/calked all the the way around on the inside) then make the side that would be against the box inset from the front face by the thickness (and then some) of the box itself. On the opposite side, put either a piano hinge or a couple of door hinges running vertically so the whole triangle piece could open up and allow access. Just a thought and much harder to explain than to build. len

Be careful -- such may not be to code. See the "Enclosing Electrical Service Disconnects/Service Panels" thread on the Pennsylvania Construction Codes Academy discussion board. (Why Pennyslvania? Just 'cuz it's the first good source I found in Google! :lol:) This actually isn't the first time discussion of hiding an electrical service panel has come up on this forum. In the future, when I see it, I'll be sure to splatter this link. ;-) --Keith :mrgreen:

BAH lets see some pictures of electric service panels and their coverings!!

So, are you saying you don't care whether or not covering your electrical service panel is safe, or legal? Or a fire hazard? :? If so, that's weird, because your thread started off asking if something was safe... :?:

That was an interesting link (as always), Kieth. It might be open to interpretation though whether we are talking about the same thing. That discussion seems to be talking about "service disconnect" panels which I understood to be the BFB breaker that cuts off ALL electrical power after the meter but before the individual circuit breakers. Granted, most homes have this BFB in the SAME panel/box as the regular breakers so it could be the same thing. In my house and in my studio, I have an entirely separate box with only one breaker in it (a BFB) that is "readily accessible" in case I need to kill the power to everything quickly. Perhaps, in nec0's case, a single box with a BFB only in it could be mounted at the electrical service entrance or just after the meter OUTSIDE where it wouldn't look so bad (or if it did, who cares? It's outside the studio). len * BFB - Big F*&%(# Breaker :-)

In regards to the service panel: My service panel was in the way of my studio, I spent $2,300 to have it moved and upgraded from 150amp to 200amp. Keep in mind a standard upgrade would have been about $1,800, so the "move" wasn't a big add on compared to the total cost. Many things lead to my decision to spend 2/3 rd's of my "original" budget on moving this thing... it's all in my thread starting here scroll down page. I had no open breaker spots, it was in the way of sound isolation and other future planned upgrades to my house will require the upgarde and more open breaker spaces. In comparison TomM had his panel moved for $400 BUT he has a newer house, reused his panel and basically just did a "move" only replacing the main line from meter to panel. A "move" of your panel may be the best option, I realize it may not be cost effective, but it is certainly worth looking into. I think I considered every option possible to deal with my panel including flipping it onto the opposite wall & enclosing it into a "closet".

BAH lets see some pictures of electric service panels and their coverings!!

Hmmm... not many people cover there service panel. Reason, with out looking up code & like the link above from Sharward certain things have to be addressed. The electric service panel has to be easily accessible by all occupants of building and emergency workers. If it is in a closet, the closet needs to be at least 3' wide PLUS many other stipulations. An extreme situation to think about: If there is ever a fire in your building AND no life is being threatened in the building AND IF electric is on ON, there is no outside disconnect switch, your main switch is buried with something you've built and firemen fear there own safety with electric on, then they will let the building burn until the power company arrives and disconnects electric service. An emergency worker will not simply pull the meter can, which is dangerous, they'll wait for power company. If I were you I'd at least get an electrician to come and look. Maybe try to get a quote for moving the thing but at the same time find out your options. Getting a quote should not cost anything, you can get some answers to other electric questions you have and the electrician may suggest something that nobody else has thought of. Marc

i didn't mean cover it up as boxing it completely. what i wanted was a way to frame it up whie adding some sort of flip cover or door that can be removed to access the breaker box. i was thinking something like this, but the door would be huge. i would just add a hinge on the inside for the door to swing either up or the side and there would be atleast 5-6" of space from the wall. or maybe i could make the front "cover," which will be at least 5-6" away from the wall, out of panels that can be ripped off. relocating is an option, but I really don't have the money to do it. i still need to buy ceiling tiles, more dry wall, and flooring.

Hey Nec0, Where about are you located in Toronto. Im out in Brampton and I am about a year into my build. One of the last things I have to do is cover up my Breaker Box :) I have changed my plans about 4 times. It has been the biggest pain in the a$$ since I started. I probably would have been done months ago if it was not for all the problems this panel has caused. good luck Vince

lol these stupid breaker boxes where in bramptons are you im from mississauga btw can you take a pic of ur breaker?

lol, I am at Hiway 10 and Bovaird. Probably not too far from you. I'll try and get a shot of the breaker tomorrow for you.