framing question

Hi, I have a framing question, a little hard to explain, but I guess the picture says it quite clearly. How do you deal with framing walls with a small angle? How do you make sure there is a solid connection between the two slightly angled walls as shown in the picture? Just on the top and bottom studs or do you cut one of the studs over the complete length at the correct angle so you can nail them together? Thanks, Dirk

I would think simply angeling one of the frames so they connect at an angle would be ok. The main thing is making sure the DRYWALL doesn't connect between each wall/frame. Also be sure to note the comment about the outer and inner frames "NOT" touching. Here's a post showing the way to set up a 4-wall frame setup (1st post by (Steve) Knightfly)... http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewt ... ght=#28964 Here's a post (Steve) Knightfly answers concerning the question about "frames touching"...(The post is 1/2 way down) http://johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=4845 Hope that helps...

Ah, I didn't explain myself too clearly. The framing shown is only one half of the wall, only drywall will go on the inside. For the other leaf, separate framing will be build. I was just wondering about the stability of the framing. How do you frame non-90degree corners like the one shown above? Greetings, Dirk

If the frame is attached to the floor and the wall on both angled portions of the wall (use RSIC clips so you don't ruin isolation with a flanking path from your inner and outer leaves) do you really need to worry about them being connected??

TomM wrote:

If the frame is attached to the floor and the wall on both angled portions of the wall (use RSIC clips so you don't ruin isolation with a flanking path from your inner and outer leaves) do you really need to worry about them being connected??

They are only connected to the floor and to the ceiling joists, not to any wall. Ofcourse I could use some metal strips and angle them accordingly, but I was just wondering there should be a simple way of doing this? Greetings, Dirk

Can you show your outer leaf framing, along with ceiling construction? And are these inner walls NON-load-bearing? Steve

knightfly wrote:

And are these inner walls NON-load-bearing? Steve

Exactly. Nothing problematic, I was just wondering how the experienced framers would solve this nicely. Thanks, Dirk

Here is the layout I hope to start building next year. The inner construction will be double 2x4 studs with two layers of sheetrock on both sides (i.e. on the CR side two layers and on the live room two layers). Greetings, Dirk

Is that drawing to scale? What are the measurements? The drum kit looks awfully small... :roll: --Keith :mrgreen:

The rooms are definitely to scale, it's a 13mx6m building. The drumkit is roughly to scale: the bassdrum is 22" which is about 55cm in diameter plus some 5cm extra. Cymbals are to scale. The live room is about 5.7mx6.4m. I'm planing to put in a big couch 8) . Console will be a 2m wide 36ch Audient ASP8024. BTW the drums are my beloved Pearl Masters maple with 10/12/14/15 toms; Cymbals are Paiste Signature 17, 18 fullvcrash and 18" power crash, 20" full ride, 18" thin china and 14" dry crisp hi-hats 8) :wink: Greetings, Dirk

DirkB wrote:

BTW the drums are my beloved Pearl Masters maple with 10/12/14/15 toms; Cymbals are Paiste Signature 17, 18 fullvcrash and 18" power crash, 20" full ride, 18" thin china and 14" dry crisp hi-hats 8) :wink:

Stop that! It's been way too long since I've played. You're just toying with me now! :evil: ;) --Keith :mrgreen:

DirkB, Almost every one of the corners in my studio had the "problem" you are asking about and I can tell you how I managed my corners. First, you want to make the wall structure as rigid as possible so what I did is laid out the bottom plates to meet each other at an angle, like a mitered corner on a picture frame. The top plates (you'll want two) cross each other so in your case, the first top plate would continue from the first wall section over to the top of the second wall. The second (top) top plate would continue from the other wall over to the first. It's a lot harder to describe that it is to do. :-) I would also ask (again) about whether these are load bearing walls? What is going to be holding up the ceilings of these rooms? If it's these walls, then they ARE load bearing. That term doesn't just mean holding up the second floor. len

Hi Len, Your explanation makes perfect sense, that is exactly what I am planning. And yes, if you put it like that, the walls are load bearing. There will be 2x6's mountend on top of the walls that need to hold the 2 layers of sheetrock for the ceiling. So the ceiling will connect these walls and make the whole construction more rigid. Is there anything else I should be concerned with since you ask about the loadbearing? Thanks, Dirk

Well, I'd make sure that the 2x6s won't be spanning to great a distance. How far is the longest span you'll have to make? There is a span calculator on the opening pages of this forum that can help. If 2x6x won't cut it (after calculating ALL the weight it will have to carry), you could sister them together or go up to 2x8s. Other than that, there is a picture on this forum that Knightfly did up that shows the order you should use for putting up walls and ceiling for maximum isolation. len

The biggest span will be 4.5m. Actually I have not looked into this issue yet, since the start of the build is still 1-1.5years away but thanks for the hint, I'm going to look into it. Greetings, Dirk

If your local wood is anything similar to douglas fir, you'll need 2x8's(35mmX190mm) on 16" (400mm) centers to span that wide and support two layers of 15mm drywall... Steve

Thanks Steve. When construction starts, I will have a proper contractor take care of the framing, but I do want to look into this myself. I did not find the span calculator Len was mentioning; what would be a good resource for me to look into? Thanks again, Dirk

The span calculator is linked from the "Safety During Demolition, Construction" thread. It's the third post on there. Regardless, read the entire thread if you haven't already. :) --Keith :mrgreen:

Not sure if there is an issue with ceiling height, and/or an inability to use deeper section ceiling joists... But if you have to use shallower section depth joists, you might need to consider sistering 2 wooden joists together -- as has been suggested -- or using steel joists for the ceiling, or using the wood joists with steel tension flanges screwed to the bottoms of them... It would appear that steel joists (i.e., studs) of the appropriate gauge are far stronger than wood in the same given section depth; these can also be doubled back-to-back or boxed to gain more strength/stability(from twisting)... I speak of these things because I need to conserve ceiling space in my project, and this required a design with sistering and steel... Of course, if there is no real problem with height, then using a deeper wood joists might be the way to go.... K