need general help.

4 or 8 corners?

hello steve i find usg distibution in mexico. thanks again

Big question, How to install the Rockwool? atacched to inner wall? glued? doesnt matters?, i search in forum but can get a good pic about how to place the rockwool, mineral wool. mineral wool on floated floors is rested over the concrete only? when u guys said steel studs u mean the same studs that is sell for gypsum boards at home deppot? thanks

Big question, How to install the Rockwool? atacched to inner wall? glued? doesnt matters?, i search in forum but can get a good pic about how to place the rockwool, mineral wool. If you're using steel studs, rockwool batts will slide between the channel and stay put. If wood, you need to trim 1.5" off each batt so it will fit between studs on 24" centers - studs are 1.5" thick so cavity will only be 22.5" wide. IF you cut the rockwool (wood studs only) to 23", it will bow slightly and lock in place between studs, and ALSO it will press slightly against the gypsum boards - this is GOOD, it helps damp any vibrations the gypsum will get when stopping sound. mineral wool on floated floors is rested over the concrete only? Right. If your mineral wool sticks up maybe 5-6mm (1/4" or less) above your floor joists when all rubber, etc, is in place, then the floor will compress it slightly and it will keep the floor from ringing. This is what you want. If your mineral wool does NOT do that, you may need to add some strips of regular fiberglass insulation between joists, so THAT compresses slightly and presses against the underside of the floor - you do NOT want that floor to RING, this is important. when u guys said steel studs u mean the same studs that is sell for gypsum boards at home deppot? Yes. If you use steel instead of wood, there are different "weights" - 25 gauge is NON-load-bearing, which is fine for that type wall (ask your Dad) - the heavier, 20 gauge studs are for LOAD-bearing walls. If you will use steel studs in an INNER wall that has gypsum ONLY ON ONE SIDE, you should use the heavier, Load-bearing (structural) ones so they don't tend to TWIST later. Home Depot might have the heavier studs, or they might only have the lighter ones. Another caution about steel studs - if your area has high humidity and you plan to use steel framing, plan on running a de-humidifier in the rooms when you're not working in there - it only takes 1/10 as much moisture for a steel-framed structure to have moisture-related problems as it does with WOOD structures. There's a paper about this in the Reference Section, look for Building Sciences links. HTH... Steve

thanks again steve, yeah he told me we need structure metal stds, but as u said, i will ask and confirm here before i buy anything or do anything. i'm having lil problems with acoustical sealant, noones carries here, anyone have the specs for the product, so i can find another that meet specs but just not called acoustical sealant. talking about doors, i was thinking if i use "refrigerator door seals" i think can works great only need to have an aluminor or steel frame so door can make contact and seal, any idea? something like: http://www.american-appliance.com/servi ... cement.htm i ask for price for a 90x200 cm door and they said 13 dollars aprox, so looks like a cheap and nice solution

I just buy a box of 12 USG Acoustical Sealant, paid like 72 usd for the box. i have 1 question i almost in time to order the mineral wool. Find THERMAFIBER® SOUND ATTENUATION FIRE BLANKETS (SAFB), in 2, 3 and 4", what u guys think is better, BTW thermofiber SAFB model have a 2.5 density. Prices: 2" @ 3.75 USD each 3" @ 5.62 USD each 4" @ 8.28 USD each I was thinking on 3", but what u guys think? for inside the walls, and i will use some when i need to do the acoustics, broadband traps. Thanks again

hello the foundation of my room is almost finish. 1 more question. floor studs over neoprene? The studs are nailed or screw to the original concrete floor?, or studs only rest over the neoprene? thanks guys.

Well foundation is done. Working on Cement 8" block walls. hopes i can get some pics fast. wheres my camera when i need? :roll:

hello, back again, lil bussy. just some questions, i buy my backer rod is 3/8 diameter, question is gap need to be 1/4" or 3/8" to use 3/8" backer rod, backer rod instructions said i need 3/8" to cover 1/4" gap. question 2. anyones know where i can find a caulk gun 29oz? online need the gun shipped to mexico, or any DIY 29 oz caulking gun? Thanks again.

Silica Gel, How much to use ?, my window gonna be 1.20 M X .80 M anyone know where i can find online, i contact some distributors here in mexico, but they said they only sell 25 KG minimun. thanks

bump :D

Some possible sources http://www.dehumidify.com/retail.html Some info http://www.dehumidify.com/FAQ.html Sorry I've missed some of your questions (busy doesn't describe my days :? ) Neoprene under floor joists - glue or free-standing, if you nail through the joist into the concrete then the neoprene is USELESS. Backer rod - should be a snug fit, mostly so it doesn't try to come out of the crack before you caulk. Caulk needs to contact both surfaces of the crack, but NOT the BACK of the crack. The backer rod is there so you do not have a 3-point caulk, otherwise when building shifts around your caulk joints will CRACK and you lose isolation. Caulk gun - this looks similar to mine, price is about what I paid caulk gun Insulation - for inside the walls, regular fluffy fiberglass insulation will work as well as the SAFB's, so if you've not already done it you might be able to save some money. Either will be fine though. You want the insulation to STAY in contact with the gypsum, one way or another. The 3" batts will be fine, 4" are more than twice the cost of 2" so if you want that thickness it would be cheaper to just buy twice as many 2" ones. Refrigerator door seals can work, but need steel to seal to as you said. Caulk - http://www.whitecapdirect.com/store/wor ... t-v2.0.jsp Best deal you'll find... Hope this helps, in future if you don't get responses in a few days please PM me... Steve

thanks for the advice steve. so fuffy fiberglass for floor and celling too? i find a place for fuffy fiberglass, and i get the prices. 2" X 15 meters=16.5 usd 3" x 15 meters=23 usd 4" x 15 meters = 31.5 usd 5" X 15 meters = 43 usd 6" x 15 meters = 46 usd i can full cover the gap: floor 1/2" neoprene + 3.5" wood studs = 4" for floor walls and celling = 2" gap+3.5 steel studs= 6" for floor i read here when using fuffy fg is better to fill all gap?, remember my room is a room in a room construction. if i use full cover gap fuffy fg, i gonna spend like 470 USD, and in 3" SAFB i waste 775 USD. i like the 300 usd diff, can cover my 2 doors :). thanks in advice.

The thick, fluffy stuff is fine, it's not worth the difference to get the heavier stuff except for EXPOSED acoustic treatments. (no wallboard over them) - unless you have walls that are EXTERIOR, you want the insulation with NO BACKING - no paper, no foil, no plastic, just fluffy fiberglass. If you have any OUTSIDE walls to do, ask and I'll run through the decision process with you... Steve

this is the layout, as u c i have no back wall in control room. i hope we can strat framing next week, all material is here, just waiting for workers finish the others house rooms.