Frede's studio getting built

New practice studio up stairs! 8) I want to put 10k US$ into recording and production for a small home computer based set up. At this point I'm trying to find the wall plate, that will connect the studio to the control desk. ProCo might be my best bet, waiting on bids. Please any other suggestions? The pic below show's me at the far end of the new 60' room. The pic was taken near where the first glass wall of the studio will be. Unfortunately, the studio only gets 12’ of 60’ making it 12 x 25’, with the peak at the center around 7’6” when the floating ceiling is in. The floor will also be floated. I will stay with cellulose blown in insulation, at a R48. 5/8’s firerock on walls and ceiling. Walnut hardwood floor in the studio. The glu-laminated beams on each side of pic are 4 x 12 x 25', the re-engineering of the roof has been the most challenging so far. I built a hoist rail system into the roof above my head to move the 13 beams about. This site ROCKS! Fred’e

Love new construction... Gotta floorplan for us to gaze upon :) Have fun :)

Ditto Bryan's request for a floorplan! 8) You mentioned 5/8" gypsum but you didn't mention how many layers of it... :roll: Is isolation important to you? Floating floor and ceiling? Interesting... Got details? Please tell us this isn't 90% construction and 10% planning -- you know that ratio is supposed to be reversed -- right? ;-) --Keith :mrgreen:

The studio has become the newest addition to this plan. (This doesn't excuse a good plan.) I live in, own and operate a Motel. I got into this busy from having a band house in the late '80s. This time hanging carpets on the walls, mattress's against the walls, is kind-of out. Isolation is important, but I was pleasantly surprised to see that technology has made foam acoustic padding readily available. Unfortunately, after the first customer checks into my center building, amplified music is out. So I hope this room will add a bit of serenity, so to speak. If you notice the beam, the 2x6 running to the peak illustrates the floating ceiling, between the stud space's you will see the cardboard, roof venting necessary to keep from baking shingles off a roof. To retain the r-48 the structural integrity and snow-load capacity, the floating roof designed itself, I can't wait to see if it works as good as it looks. Hard wood dampeners on the angled ceiling with the acoustic pads may be awesome, but staying within the 50% of the ceiling over 7' becomes a problem. So only 1 layer of 5/8's x, this was a difficult trade off.

Nice photos....Grab smart draw or sketchup and do a rouff plan of what you are doing... or as Keith said, is this a design as you build thing.....

Fred'e wrote:

Isolation is important, but I was pleasantly surprised to see that technology has made foam acoustic padding readily available.

Please tell me you're not making the mistake of thinking that "acoustic padding" = isolation... :?

If you notice the beam, the 2x6 running to the peak illustrates the floating ceiling, between the stud space's you will see the cardboard, roof venting necessary to keep from baking shingles off a roof. To retain the r-48 the structural integrity and snow-load capacity, the floating roof designed itself, I can't wait to see if it works as good as it looks.

Sorry, but I don't follow that... :? What I do follow (or think I follow :?) is that you probably have a 3-leaf ceiling, and that's not good. You'll need more mass on the innermost leaf to even attempt to make up for that. :roll:

Hard wood dampeners on the angled ceiling with the acoustic pads may be awesome . . .

Huh? :?

. . . but staying within the 50% of the ceiling over 7' becomes a problem.

Ah, this is the minimum height requirement as per code... Right? :roll:

So only 1 layer of 5/8's x, this was a difficult trade off.

"Difficult" is an understatement. I can't help but think you're going to be very dissatisfied with the isolation with just one layer of 5/8". :roll:

...

Fred'e wrote:

Going to have to move this project to a remote building.

Maybe... Maybe not. You haven't posted nearly enough detail for anyone to analyze what you are (were?) planning to do and what changes you'd need to make to improve the outcome. A remote building would be better. However, don't assume that alone will get you out of the isolation woods. Read all the stickies/announcements on this forum and spend as much time as it takes to learn what you need to learn in order not to fail at your goals. We're here to help when you're ready to move forward. :) --Keith :mrgreen:

And the #1 thing is a wuick diagram showing what you are attempting. Draw it on a sheet of paper, include and elevation with HxWXL scan it or digi cam it and let us see. We cant help with the limited info you are giving us.

thanks guys, OK not giving up totaly yet. :? just about have sketch done, maybe you guys will see something I don't. Well, more than likely. LOL

Excellent we await your sketch

Here they are, again, sorry had to repaste them as they were getting very blurry resizing. I'm becoming more tempted by 2 layers of 5/8's fire rock. Or sand under the floor?

This is the opposite of what I usually ask... but... Any chance you can increase the size on those pics? The width on them is 320 pixels -- you can double that and still stay within the 700 pixel limit imposed by the owner of the forum. (FYI, you can edit the post and update the images from there, rather than repost them.)

Now we can begin. :) What are your concersn and questions based on all the info you have read on the site???

1. The floor beneath the studio. a, while walls were outlined nicely, and double windows, I'm missing the floor spec... l,I'm thinking pulling celulose, add r19 batts, then layer of 5/8's rock on existing rafters. Then floated floor r19 batts again, and then another layer of 5/8's, then the 3/4" T&G with a ceramic tile floor. (that has to be around a 63 rating by John's charts. b, The ceiling isn't as easy, but I think i can add 1 or 2 layers of 5'8s between the 2x4 lateral bracing. 2. The 4 pillars, perhaps hollow, 2x4 framing, with 2 layers 5/8's and r-19 batts?

So the floor is open.... I would line the studs with neoprene, fill the floor with 3" AFB (fire resistant and sound absorbant...) place plywood on the neoprened studs, screw into place....then a layer of sheetrock, possibly the triply I used an done more layer of plywood/particleboard.....

I would line the studs with neoprene, fill the floor with 3" AFB (fire resistant and sound absorbant...) place plywood on the neoprened studs, screw into place....then a layer of sheetrock, possibly the triply I used an done more layer of plywood/particleboard.....

I'm sure I don't understand, neoprene. Vapor barrier, or a thicker softer type of plastic sure, say 6mil plastic? If I understand you correctly then, rapping the entire studio would achieve a more “air-tight” seal. When you say tripling, you would do that at the sub-floor lvl, not at the floot lvl or rafter lvl, right? i.e. you want to seperate the floor from the ceiling?

giles117 wrote:

I would line the studs with neoprene, fill the floor with 3" AFB (fire resistant and sound absorbant...) place plywood on the neoprened studs, screw into place...

Screw through the Neoprene? :? Doesn't that defeat the purpose of the elastomer if you fuse the plywood to the studs with screws? :? I would think that something like Green Glue would be more appropriate... :roll:

Kwith I am not sure if he is after a perfect solution or a very workable solution. But if you notice I said place down a layer of the rubber I used which helps decouple the vibrations that may be transmitted through the screws..... Plus the screw is going in Neoprene into the stud below so ther is some loss there. The floor layer I described vs what he described will work better for his limited area....

Bryan and Keith, :D You guys rock! Ok, as I read over your replies this morning, I recalled contractors at the local high school re-roofing with what appears to be a maybe (so I still have to research this) a 20 mill or 100 mill rubber roofing in what appeared to be 20 ft. wide x 100' long. As soon as I wake up I will start checking my source's and contractors supplies.

I cant speak on rubber roofing. The Tri-Ply rubber I used I know was a rubber compund. (I took a piece and tested it before I jumped on board. :) Aside form hours of online research into the product. Wasnt a lot of info available but I did find it....) It was much cheaper than a 1/4" sheet of neoprene to cover that same surface...... and it worked. :) There are differen types of roofing rubber, some more effective for this endeavour than others......

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A roofing contractor just got back to me. I'm getting a 10'x60' roll of 60 mill rubber for $390.00 or .65 sqft. Now I'm thinking that the rubber, would be better served under the sub-floor, as it would dampen all or most vibration. This would stop the sound from entering the wood frame of the building. However, the membrane would have to be glued. Would you think, first lay down a 3/4" plywood then screw an overlayment to that plywood? or plywood, then sheetrock, then particle-board underlayment screwed to the the plywood thru the sheetrock? But not the rubber membrane.

Seems a tad expensive... The stuff I used was 36" x 30' rolls for $37.00 at Home Depot. Also hanging this stuff will do nothing of the sort like a blanket..... Placing it betwween drywall sheets, yes, but free hanging?? Not on your life....

I didnt glue my membrane (rubber). Look here....