John - Great, thanks for posting. I made the speaker boxes out of 15mm MDF today and in the monitors went with the tightest fit ever!
Since I got your attention ( :wink:) I might as well ask you 2 (sort of) questions:
1) Since I am mounting active monitors I will build the air circulation port described in your drawing. However, I interpreted that specific drawing as not having a sealed back to the speaker box (just top/bottom and sides) since the air need to be circulated there. And then there should be a sort of back closing cavity stuffed with insulation. Is that right and, if so, what should be the width of that back cavity (you don't happen to have a pic of that one installed or anything, would you?)
2) The speaker boxes I made was tight as hell and feels very solid, but I managed to draw some of the screws a bit too tight so that small cracks in some corners appeared :oops: . Now, they are not that deep or anything but I was wondering if that would cause me a lot of troubles later on? If so, any way to treat them without actually having to redo the entire box :( ?
I am looking to mount the speaker box flush with the frames and then pull the monitors out 15mm to be flush with the MDF front. Would that be ok? Also, if trying to add wooden slats ove that, should the monitor be flush to those or to the MDF that the slats are attached upon?
Sorry for all these questions (I understand you have at least a million other things to do, really) but I feel I am getting closer to finishing the studio and this place really is educating and exciting and that winds me up a bit! :lol:
Ok, building my home studio from scratch - help appreciated!
Originally posted at johnlsayers.com, topic 4559.
Bump + new questions:
1) What to do with cavities in soffits? Fill with loose insulation or just have rigid insulation at the wall part (back) and have empty space for the rest?
2) Since I do not have backs to my soffit speaker boxes (the ones holding the actual monitor and being jammed between center studs) I was wondering about the design John's made with a plywood back a bit away (allowing circulation of air)? How would I do that correctly? Do I need a plywood back (remember it is all tied to the inside out wall)
3) Speaking about speaker boxes, how should they be connected to the front framing and the monitor shelf? Hard connection, screwed and sealed tightly or should it just be placed between the front studs and upon the shelf?
If anyone cares to join in on this thread and lend me some of your expertise, I would be very grateful. Just doing the soffit this week and would really appreciate feedback on my issues listed above.
Best,
Patrik
yup great opportunity to get rid of all your insulation off cuts, clothes you don't wear anymore and anything similar. :)Bump + new questions: 1) What to do with cavities in soffits? Fill with loose insulation or just have rigid insulation at the wall part (back) and have empty space for the rest?
just make sure you have air circulation - the back is neither here nor there.2) Since I do not have backs to my soffit speaker boxes (the ones holding the actual monitor and being jammed between center studs) I was wondering about the design John's made with a plywood back a bit away (allowing circulation of air)? How would I do that correctly? Do I need a plywood back (remember it is all tied to the inside out wall)
You are after rigidity - ideally the whole unit would be the speaker box - so make sure everything is built solid, as you would a speaker box.3) Speaking about speaker boxes, how should they be connected to the front framing and the monitor shelf? Hard connection, screwed and sealed tightly or should it just be placed between the front studs and upon the shelf?
Hi John,
Big help, superthanks! Just a final one (please): the insulation inside the soffit should be rigid rockwoll (ideally), right? In your soffit design, is the 2" rigid rockwoll glued to the lower (inside) plywood part or how is it attached?
Pics to be uploaded next week hopefully!
Still wondering about how to attach the insulation to the lower part of the soffit. Is it glued in your design, John?
OK, starting on final phase for the soffits now and have questions again...:
1) Is it ok to have small half-circled ventilation holes in the soffit shelf? See attached pic.
2) Do I need heavier front material than 15mm plywood (with parquett wooden floor on top of it for the upper part)?
3) Should I fill inner part with insulation as much as possible? Rigid or does not matter?
Would really appreciate if you could let me know how to attach the rigid insulation for the lower inner part as well...
Bumping and adding a few questions:
1) When sandwiching the speakerbox between the 2 middle studs, how should it be connected? Screw, and if so, where?
2) Having the actual speakerbox touching the speaker (it is sooo tight at the moment) --> would this cause resonance?
Bumpin'
Hello? Anyone out there?
1) Is it ok to have small half-circled ventilation holes in the soffit shelf? See attached pic.
I can't see the holes? BUt the rear of the speaker will need venting or the powered speaker will over heat. The front surface needs to be a baffle though.
2) Do I need heavier front material than 15mm plywood (with parquett wooden floor on top of it for the upper part)? 5/8 in ply just like Johns image.
3) Should I fill inner part with insulation as much as possible? Rigid or does not matter? John design is hangers
1) When sandwiching the speakerbox between the 2 middle studs, how should it be connected? Screw, and if so, where? Glue and screw the speaker box (not the speaker!) to the frme that you've built.2) Having the actual speakerbox touching the speaker (it is sooo tight at the moment) --> would this cause resonance?
If you can get some foam in there to soften any vibration. But tight is good.
-Do you really need a speaker box though? With that shelf there why don't you strap the speaker down and fix the baffle to the front of the frame?
Many thanks for that, lilith. Just one clarification regarding one of my questions:
"Should I fill inner part with insulation as much as possible? Rigid or does not matter?". By this I meant the area beside and below the speaker box (upper part, not the lower bass trap)
Thanks again for replying!