The new building will be standalone. No connection whatsoever to the existing house.
There will be a gap of roughly 2.5 - 3 feet between the two buildings.
The point above means that the decking from the existing loungeroom will 'step down' to the entry point of the new building.
There is still enough room to build the new building, as the fence is being moved (see new pic)
I wish I was able to draw a rough outline of the new building on this pic, but I'm not good enough with graphics programs. Feel free to have a go - it'd be nice to know that people have an idea about what I'm thinking of.
Thanks,
Ben.
Ben, I can't believe I actually took the time to do this crappy drawing in Paint, man what a crude proggie - you'd probably not be
looking at this if it wasn't 93 humid degrees here and I had anything important enough to pull me away from the AC...:=)
Anyway, is this sorta what you're planning? (don't ask me to re-draw it, if you got lucky you got lucky) And Yeah, I know the
perspective sucks, life's a bitch... :=) Steve
:D:D
Fantastic! That is pretty much spot on!
Only difference being that the building will actually be extending slightly over the existing fenceline to the right, and the steps you've shown will be slightly different to allow the external door to open (we're trying to come up with a deck design that will allow this).
So from what we've established here, are things looking like they're achievable?
Achievable? Man, if I can draw ANYTHING with Paint that's even vaguely recognizable, your project should be a piece of cake :=)
Comments on doors - are you planning a two-door entry for sound isolation? If so, why not do the "John thing" and use two exterior insulated glass sliders in tandem? Keeps you from having to put in an elevator :=) plus, with the isolation of the two sliders in tandem followed by the great outdoors, the sound into your existing building would be almost non-existent. Also, since it looks like the distance from the new door to anything else is pretty long, there should be good attenuation of what little bit excapes as far as neighbors are concerned.
Giving yourself that 3 feet of space between buildings will allow you to render both sides of the brick with 1/2" of plaster, which will improve TL somewhat on low end (good for drums)
The only thing still bothering me on the aussie brick veneer/wood frame construction is this: Am I right in the assumption that this brick veneer can't stand on its own, and that there are "ties" every so often that are mortared into the brick and fastened to the wood frame? If so, that would reduce the performance of that wall construction considerably and would have to be compensated for in other ways.
John, am I right on this? Hard ties every so often between brick and frame?
Gotta run for now, DDJ starts @ 04:30 (6 hrs from now) Later... Steve
The double sliding doors sound interesting. Does the distance from the exterior wall to the interior wall have to be quite large to accomodate them?
Here's a rough Punch! of the 'current' (I'm getting used to all these changes) plan. Let me know if you think the handrails will cause any problems. I think they would simply be dynabolted to the exterior walls. They are totally optional at this stage (they just make the pic look nice!).
Cool "slot absorbers", Ben - they should have a pretty wide response :=)
Seriously, as long as the bolts don't pass clear through the brick and into the inner wall, there should be no problems.
The sliders would need to be each mounted in its own wall, as you already know - the more air gap the better, but 8" to a foot would work.
Is that really all the lower the new building will be in relation to the existing one? It seemed like more in the actual picture... Steve
Is that really all the lower the new building will be in relation to the existing one? It seemed like more in the actual picture...
Yeah, you're right. That drawing is really just to get things together in my head. The next one I do will have more accurate measurements, or perhaps it's time now to call a draftperson to assist...?
Might wanna hold off on the draftsperson til John comments on the wall construction using brick veneer -
John, what about it - in the aussie brick veneer walls you have "tiebacks" between the brick and the framing, right? If so, any comments about the effect on TL caused by the hard connection between brick and inner framed wall?
Ben, the reason I'm asking all this is that we may need to change parts of the wall construction because of this - if so, you'd be jumping the gun with a draftsperson til we know for sure what type wall construction would work best for you... Steve
Thanks John - Hey, found an attacthment by Senco that turns a regular screw gun into a "repeater" - works on Milwaukee, DeWalt and Makita (mine) About $50, sure beats $140 and up... Steve