rehearsal space in existing tin shed

neilstar wrote:

i was wondering what type of backer rod you could recommend using?? around the outside of each wall, joins, maybe a 5mm gap between sheets and the floor and 5mm between wall joins,

Hey Neil, I can't remember exactly what the backer rod I used was, but it's a pretty standard type of thing that you should be able to get from whoever is supplying your plaster. From memory I had a 10mm gap where I was joining my plaster ceiling to my brickwork with 10mm backer rod and GG acoustic sealant. For all the internal joins I didn't use any backer rod at all as the sheets were butt joined so a bead of sealant on its own was fine. I also didn't use backer rod on the wall to floor joins as the gap was only 1-2mm in spots so again, the sealant on it's own is fine. I'm not sure if that answers your question but overall i'd say if you can keep your floor to wall, and wall to ceiling tolerance down to 5mm then you probably won't need backer rod at all.

i believe there is a minimum rate of applcation or the GG won't be very useful. I believe there's also a maximum rate after which you don't get any increase in isolation.

One tube per 4x8 sheet is the minimum, two is good, and three is the maximum. - Stuart -

thanks again for quick response, will post some pix soon, cheers Neil

Hi stuart, thanks for your input do you think adding the green glue compound at either 1or2 tubes/sheet will make much difference to final isolation result?, 300mm air gap between walls, completely filled with insulation soundscreen 3.1 insulation approx 25kg/m3 110mm and 190mm approx 12kg/m3 lightly packed 22mm ply screwed over the entire internal wall frame 2 layers of 16mm fyrecheck , will green glue compound make much difference to final isolation results??? green glue compound expensive stuff here in aus $308 for a box of 12, probably need 3 or 4 boxes cheers Neil

neilstar wrote:

300mm air gap between walls, completely filled with insulation soundscreen 3.1 insulation approx 25kg/m3 110mm and 190mm approx 12kg/m3 lightly packed 22mm ply screwed over the entire internal wall frame 2 layers of 16mm fyrecheck

I'd say you're looking pretty good there without the GG Neil. As long as you pay close attention to detail on every layer and make sure there are no air gaps between any of the ply/gyprock sheets and any of the wall/floor, wall/ceiling joins. Also, stagger all these joins as far as is practical. Stuart will be able to give you a better idea of the isloation you could achieve with that kind of construction, (he's pretty sharp with the maths of it :D ) but a lot of it will depend on how well you seal it all up and the attention to detail in doing so.

hi steve , what was yr best method of cutting the soundscreen, trimming to fit odd places,?? cheers Neil

A 'snap off blade utility knife' worked best for me Neil. When they're fully extended you get about 100-120mm of cutting edge. Easy to find at any hardware store.

Just came across this thread. Exactly what I needed as I'm evaluating a shed that is almost an exact replica of Neil's :) Neil - Are you able to let us know the rough cost of your build? Sounds like you got quite a lot of the materials for free but it would give me a ballpark figure. Also how much sound reduction you ended up with. I'm assuming you're more or less finished although the lack of posts recently might suggest otherwise :) Any pics of where you're at now? Cheers, Simon

Hi Simon, thanks for email, im still alive but i did slow down the building process after lots of reading and learning about what i was trying to do, and it seems the more i read and learn the better i wanna do it, which in turn means more money, more materials, but i have been extremely lucky regarding materials, and i have basically done all the building and work myself hours and hours and hours, with the knowledge and expertise of friends which are local builders, i am still in the process of lining the internal walls 1st layer, 22mm plywood which means getting all the insulation in, air con 1st fix, electricity, wiring for power and lights, more or less definetly not finished, regarding how much i have spent so far, i hate to think about it, but if i had to go buy all the timber, OMG, i will try and load up some pix when i get a chance, cheers Neil

some pix as requested

neilstar wrote:

some pix as requested

Hi Neil - quick question. How did the Daikin Sarara unit installation go in terms of sound proofing, quietness of operation and fresh air intake? did you use a passive vent out to push out stale air and prevent a build up of pressure. Thanks in advance for your thoughts as I am about to have a 4k unit installed in my 20sqm project build and plan to have a 100mm duct out to the cavity between the walls and then another duct from the outside wall also terminating in the cavity. In other words an indirect route out for stale air. Cheers Arthur

neilstar wrote:

some pix as requested

Hi Neil - quick question. How did the Daikin Sarara unit installation go in terms of sound proofing, quietness of operation and fresh air intake? did you use a passive vent out to push out stale air and prevent a build up of pressure. Thanks in advance for your thoughts as I am about to have a 4k unit installed in my 20sqm project build and plan to have a 100mm duct out to the cavity between the walls and then another duct from the outside wall also terminating in the cavity. In other words an indirect route out for stale air. Cheers Arthur

Hi Arthur, sorry for taking so long to reply, i have not completed my room yet, air con has not been completely installed, 1st fix only, im doing all the work myself in my spare time, i will give you an update when its completed, hopefully by end of the year cheers Neil