Joey's Barn Studio

Hi guys, I’m joey from Wales, UK and I’m looking for a bit of advice on a project studio I’m planning. So the plan is to convert an existing brick barn into a project studio for recording and rehearsing (loud rock band :shot: ). I’ve uploaded a SketchUp of the existing shell and initial floor plans, and also a few photos. The barn is a standard double brick construction with an air gap and metal ties and everything is sitting on one common concrete slab. I’m planning on bricking up the double doorway to create a single doorway. The floor plans photo show how I’m planning on dividing the space, with a main room, amp booth and hallway/airlock/storage space. I’d like the main room to keep the natural light from the two existing windows at the front (also for a fire escape in the case of emergencies), but have shutters for when playing loud music (drums). Brief: The room is going to be used as a practice room and a project studio, and the nearest neighbours are 20m away (see floor plans). The aim is to be able to play a drum kit up to about 9pm and to be able to play guitar loud-ish (30W tube amp) at any time, without being a nuisance. :) Budget: under £3000 please. I will be doing the work myself. Questions/worries: • Is the ceiling construction the weak point of the design (being of less mass than the walls)? • Windows isolation with standard double glazing + wooden shutters inside; will it work effectively? • Help with design of the shutters and doors, i.e. how much weight/thickness do I need? • What is the cheapest type (available in the UK) of insulation that would work for the walls and ceiling? • Walls and ceiling: 2 x 4 inch framing with 16 inch centres or 24 inch centres? • Do I need roof ventilation / vapour barriers? Is this design plausible to achieve the above goals (i.e. an overall STC of 60+)? Thanks in advance, and if I've missed anything please tell me. Joey p.s. I've bought Rod's book and read it, just in case anyone asks. :lol:

averagejoey wrote:

Questions/worries: • Is the ceiling construction the weak point of the design (being of less mass than the walls)? • Windows isolation with standard double glazing + wooden shutters inside; will it work effectively? • Help with design of the shutters and doors, i.e. how much weight/thickness do I need? • What is the cheapest type (available in the UK) of insulation that would work for the walls and ceiling? • Walls and ceiling: 2 x 4 inch framing with 16 inch centres or 24 inch centres? • Do I need roof ventilation / vapour barriers? Is this design plausible to achieve the above goals (i.e. an overall STC of 60+)?

The ceiling is one of the weak points. Windows are next, no shutters will do some but should not be considered as part of this project. Thicker glass would work better. 2X4 framing will not support the ceiling. Yes you need roof ventilation and vapor barriers.

Hi Brien and thank you for taking the time to reply. I've revised the ceiling/roof design so that I could incorporate ventilation (see attached photo and SketchUp file), this time I will attach the wooden frame directly onto the original roof joists (this also means I can span a shorter distance across the joists instead of parallel to them, and not have to rely on the wall framing to support the ceiling) and then use resilient channels to attach the inner layer of plasterboard. The ventilation will be between the OSB layer and the external plasterboard and a vapour barrier placed between the framing and resilient channel. As far as the windows are concerned I'd love to get two leaves of thick laminated glass, but I don't think it would be within my budget. I guess I could always replace the shutters and window at a later date if I had more cash. I've attached an image of the plan for the shutters - 2 layers of 18mm MDF sandwiched between 2 layers of 12mm ply (need to add some double seals, hinges and deadbolts to keep them shut tight), the construction is inspired by this thread: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5506&start=135#p125170 Surely these shutters will act the same as a "superdoor" if sealed correctly? Does this roof construction seem more sensible? Also what is the cheapest form of insulation that would work in the roof and walls? Thanks again, Joey