Question concerning outlet boxes

Can anyone point me to info on how to mount an electrical outlet box / junction box to a stud so that the box face mounts flush to the outside layer of drywall? I am using RSIC clips + hat channel and two layers of 5/8 drywall. This places the outlet box face slightly over 2" from the stud. I have some standard "nail-to-the-side-of-the-stud" plastic boxes. there is too much gap between finished wall and stud to mount using the included nails in teh box as designed. Is there some trick to this i am missing? Am i using the wrong boxes? Surface mount is not an option for several boxes unfortunately. Brandon

I think i may have found one solution here: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=13828&p=101591#p101389 I saw somewhere else where someone built a small wooden box all the way round the outlet, but i'm wondering how that might compromise the uncoupling of the wall obtained with the rsic clips. Planning to sealing around the box with a putty pad as well. Is this the right route? Brandon

In your situation I think you should have gotten surface mount boxes and these would then (after wiring) be packed in Putty. However, you should be able to create boxes made of leftover framing and mount your boxes to these, attaching this wooden box directly to the drywall (with a good seal all around), finally packing them with putty. As löng as these are well sealed, packed and isolated from the framing (attached directly and only to the drywall) there shouldn't be any serious compromise of your isolation.

Agree with Brian: surface mount is the way to go. You'll need a lot of putty pads to make up the same mass as two layers of 5/8" drywall, plus you'll need to seal the cable entry and drywall penetration very carefully. - Stuart -

If you are using flush mount boxes home depot sell boxes that are depth adjustable. They have a metal bracket that you screw to the stud. Then there is a screw on the face that moves the box do you can flush it up with the surface. Again having big holes in the drywall for outlets will comprise the sound proofing. Surface mount is best

Formal data from the NRC as well as informal research (still done in a lab) we've done shows that a single gang box simply needs to be sealed airtight to avoid being a problem. I realize that many feel you need to have a massive backer box built, but that is not the case. Have some insulation tucked in behind the now airtight box, and avoid having a similar box sharing the same stud cavity in the adjacent room. Double gang and larger are recommended to have a backer box. Regarding the OP question, You can use an adjustable box in combination wih an extension ring. The two combined will get you the depth your looking for Carlon makes these items

i see that this is an old thread but i hope im not too late. im an electrician by trade so this is what u can do. you got 2 options. service mount the boxes or use 4''x4''x1 1/2 box. im building my studio right now and what ur best soundproof option is service mo"unt with a box we call "handy box" and what u do is where your roughing in for a plug for example you, just leave the wires lightly strapped where u want the plug and leave the wires long so when your installing the drywall u make a tiny hole for them to poke out also put some sort of backing between the stud i used a 2x4 with top at 12" from the floor. so say u have all the layers of drywall up and your ready to install that plug, strip the wire so that you can either get a L16 connector or a gromit connector. knock out one of the knock out wholes from the back of the handy box. now u can screw your box to the backing u installed in between the studs. then acoustic seal the hole where the wires enter inside the box and bam u have an air tight n mass for your plug without losing stc rating. the other option is use the 4x4x1 1/2 box and mount it flush with your stud and buy extension plaster rings for whatever depth you need they come in all sizes. just keep it an 1/8 to 1/4 smaller then what ur surface depth is. so say you resilent channel and double 5/8s drywall that equals 1 3/4 approx. 1/2 for resilent and 1 1/4 so i would go with an 1 1/2 plaster ring extension. its real simple. oh n also if you do it that way or with any device box make sure to use and acoustic putty pad or a fire putty pad that will help with sound loss through the box. like i said if you can do service mount its works way better against sound loss. if you have any questions dont hesistate to msg me. hope this helps guys.