Stud wall caulking frame question

I am just about to start on the inside of my studio construction and wanted confirmation that the caulking I use around the stud wall frame is acoustic caulking and not standard decorators or builders caulking? And do I also fill any small holes, knots etc in the frame work? What about stud framing screw head cavities - a step too far?

Good shot of the end apex wall

Acoustic caulk is the choice of professionals....use it :)

Cheers Brien - order going in today!

Everest AC 50 is the one I use, I get it in the UK - about £3.50 for a 900 ml cartridge. Good bang for your buck compared to smaller cartridges!

I'm confused. You are going to caulk the 2x4 frame?

Yes. In the corners. If you take a look at many of the photo's on this site at the stage I'm at you'll see mastic where the stud frame and the outer skin meet.

You'll see it on this thread about a third of the way down, just before the first picture of the veneered door. http://johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=8205

Well, no one said was terrible stuff this Everflex AC50 is :twisted: I bought the 900ml tubes and as much stuff leaks out the back as it does out of the nozzle :shock: And then it falls over you, your hands, clothes, floor, ladders, in fact, it gets everywhere :x But, it does seal very well :lol:

Paul881 wrote:

Well, no one said was terrible stuff this Everflex AC50 is :twisted: I bought the 900ml tubes and as much stuff leaks out the back as it does out of the nozzle :shock: And then it falls over you, your hands, clothes, floor, ladders, in fact, it gets everywhere :x But, it does seal very well :lol:

Hope mine will be better I'v just bought 36 tubes of it :D

Then here's a top tip #1 - before you insert the tube into your gun, examine the rear metal sliding seal cap inside the tube and make sure it isn't damaged in any way i.e. dented. If it is, as best you can push the edges of the metal cap back into contact with the inside of the tube. That way, it will ensure no caulk pushes out. Top tip #2 - Wear silicon gloves and DO NOT use your fingers to smooth or touch the calk after you have applied it. Use a putty knife instead if you need to shape your joint, remove any excess etc. After using a tube (two at the most) , you will need to wash your gloves, knife and applicator gun in water. Be warned - this stuff gets everywhere and looks a damn mess when applied. I found that I used a pair of gloves for every four tubes. When dried it creates a great silicon-like joint that is very robust and quite hard - but flexible. I used 900ml tubes.

Me applying the damn stuff.....

Very useful tips! I'll add another one: If you are going to do a lot of caulking ( :!: ) then get a pneumatic caulking gun and a small compressor. It saves a lot of time, and a lot of mess. It uses air pressure to force the caulk out of the tube, and you can control the flow rate very easily and very accurately by adjusting the pressure. Also, with good caulking guns, as soon as you release the trigger, the flow stops dead, with little to no "ooze" afterwards. That's my $0.02. - Stuart -

Have had no problems so far although I have only used for the sole plates and the corner studs at the moment, new gun with the tubes as they are the 900ml size very good,

Paul881 wrote:

Me applying the damn stuff.....

Looking over your right shoulder I see daylight? This looks like a breach in your exterior isolation assembly to me.

Well spotted Brien! What you are seeing is that there are missing soffits to the underside of the external roof overhang and the reason they are missing is because I am waiting to complete the frame caulking so I can then order and install the RWA45 in the joof joists (including the external overhang part of the roof) and then finally fit the soffits which are all ready planed to size, painted and waiting to be fitted. So eventually there will be no breaches to my isolation assembly. 8) Well, thats the plan :lol: