Construction Diary - Stockholm/Sweden

I would loooovvveee to hear what the honorable members in this forum viewpoints are in order to determine if this guys approach (the youtube clip) is over kill or not;

Not overkill: very recommended. The best way to do it is to caulk five times (assuming two layers of drywall on the studs): before you put the framing in place, you put one bead of caulk down the center-line, one close to the left edge, and one close to the right edge. (That applies to each piece of framing that touches the wall or floor.) Then, after you put up each layer of drywall, you put one bead of caulk all around the edge, after you put the backer rod in place. So each leaf is caulked five times. You do that to get the hermetic seal that is so important to proper isolation. - Stuart -

Long time no hear Stuart. Thank you for the clarification, assistance and guidance; it makes my life easier (and trust me Stuart, I love comfort). :wink: Tried some white wine from Chile by the way (don't remember the brand); it was excellent (a little to DRY for my taste but other then that minor glitch it was very good). I wish that the Country that I was born in (Colombia) was known for a different product then they are known for producing. Supply and demand ya know, I guess the Honorable Englishmen Adam Smith was right; the invisible hand will supply the demand of any given market.(LOL) :| Sincerely, Useg Diaz-Granados

"you do that to get a hermetic seal" How come my food spoils when I leave it in my room that has this, who was it that used this phrase first...Phillip Newel? A hermetic seal applies to food for the most part, and how it might maintain a longer shelf life under certain conditions. To assume that anyone of us can approach this with a structure, and get it right...well, they die from lack of air, and the chips go with them :)

A hermetic seal applies to food for the most part,

Actually, "hermetic" just means "airtight", and is used very, very frequently in the world of mechanics, not to mention most branches of the physical sciences.... :)

I'm not a mechanic....maybe that is where I fail to see the comparison. I understand where you go when you use this word...I am just pretty certain, it is a mark that seldom get's hit. But let us all shoot for the high mark anyway... God save my chips...;)

I am just pretty certain, it is a mark that seldom get's hit.

Yup! Gotta agree with that, for sure. - Stuart -

Glenn I need you!!!!!! Need my questions answered in particularly the ones concerning the cloud. :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :mrgreen: Sincerely, Useg Diaz-Granados

sounds like you have the answers on the caulking - good. on the clouds, just make it proportional in terms of cutting away. since it's not really behaving like a diffuser it's not critical, the offsets in the spacing just add some shifts in the higher end stuff when you have the hard part facing you (but then you also need a large angle on them to use that approach). if you're still unsure, send me the sizes of the clouds and i'll sketch out the actual dimensions. on the hangers - leave enough space between them above the monitors so you can have venting - use chicken wire or equiv to form/force a space if you need to from your speaker to the vent hole up top..

Thank you one again Glenn! :D I am extremely thankful for your help. This project would not got this far if it was not for you. An update; We finally got started putting up the first layer of drywall! :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo: Got most of the first layer completed and have started caulking the room. I will post some pics in the near future. After placing the drywall on the walls we left a sheet of drywall suspended in between two trestles suspended about a little more then a meters height the room sounded real robotic which got me nervous. It turned out that what was making the noise was the resonance of the 15 mm drywall when the noise I made bounced around the room and went through the drywall. The noise disappeared once we removed the drywall from the trestles. Can't wait to get started with measuring the rooms frequency response. Sincerely, Useg Diaz-Granados

Here are some pics of the placement of the first layer of drywall, the small cloud containing the lights and the sound caulking. Sincerely, Useg Diaz-Granados

nice work as always!

Thank you Glenn! :D An update; I have been caulking the first layer of drywall and hope to complete it within the week. After that we will start on the second layer. Here is a link that might be useful for anyone applying mud to drywall. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yKt1M58bdM4 Sincerely, Useg Diaz-Granados

Hej på er! where did you buy the acoustic caulk in Sweden mvh Fennec

Hi (Hej). I bought the sound caulk at Tools, Järnkompaniet AB. http://www.jarnkompaniet.se Sincerely, Useg Diaz-Granados

Useg Diaz-Granados wrote:

Hi (Hej). I bought the sound caulk at Tools, Järnkompaniet AB. http://www.jarnkompaniet.se Sincerely, Useg Diaz-Granados

Thank you so much :)

You are welcome! :D An update; finished the fist layer and the caulking; almost done with the wall putty. It took three 10 Liter buckets to do the first layer. I can hear a substantial sound reduction even though I only got one layer of 13 mm on the ceiling. The big improvement was noticeable after the caulking and wall putty was applied. We started the second ceiling layer and are using a Swedish version of "Green Glue". It applies the same principle of converting sound energy to heat. The product I am using is called Swedac DG A2. http://www.swedac-acoustic.com/ Here are some pics of the work we have done. Sincerely, Useg Diaz-Granados

Here is the continuation...... :wink: :wink: :wink: :wink: :wink: :wink: Sincerely, Useg Diaz-Granados

Here is an update :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: ; We completed the second layer of drywall and are ALMOST (lol) done with the caulking. The sound isolation is now beyond what I expected it to be (I have to thank all of the people in here that assisted me in reaching this results). The noise that came from upstairs is practically eliminated, you can't hear anything at all from the outside. The sound caulking and the application of the drywall mud has taken a considerable amount of time. For those of you Trying to place drywall on a ceiling RENT A DRYWALL LIFT!!!!!! We did the first layer of the ceiling without one which was a BIG MISTAKE (sometimes is good being stubborn, other times is not) :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: Have to take a break for a few months from the project. After that it is time to start to analyze the rooms frequency respons !!!!!! Here are a few pics of the progress thus far. Sincerely. Useg Diaz-Granados ......

Well, getting ready to commence the room analyzation process :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: I know the waterfall and its corresponding measurements won't be pretty. I have included some pics of the mudding progress thus far; it is far from perfect but I think it is a good start. I presume that the pic where the door will be will be problematic since it breaks up the rooms symmetry. I have joined the REW forum and have commenced the information assimilation process in order to achieve my MAIN OBJECTIVE (lol) which is tame the room without having to utilize any EQ correction. Glenn; I am going to need your input during this process (if you are kind enough provide it). I have decided to make the bass traps 400 mm of isolation and a 100mm of empty space. They will be complemented by a center slot piece that will be 170 CM high. Been following some of the threads where people are in the sound treatment/ room spectrum analyzation stage with great interest in order to absorb as much knowledge as possible. Hope the honorable members of this forum are doing well; have to get back into research mode. Below are some links that I have compiled and that I think will be useful for other members in this forum. :shot: http://www.acs.psu.edu/drussell/demos.html http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-roommodes.htm http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=6045&p=42779&hilit=mode+calculators#p42779 http://www.bobgolds.com/AbsorptionCoefficients.htm http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=5601&hilit=soffit http://www.hometheatershack.com/roomeq/ Sincerely, Useg Diaz-Granados

I (lol) have a few questions with regards to how to analyze/measure the room Glenn. :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: I have a small table where I am going to place my Computer and Sound card when conducting the measurements. I am placing the speaker stands without any rubber pads where the speakers will eventually be when I construct the flush mount and the saws etc. I have also emptied the room as much as I can. Q1) Is there anything that you would re consider with regards to this approach Glenn? Even though the instructions that REW have provided are VERY useful I would like to double check some things if it is possible Glenn. David. M French post that I included the link to recommends measuring the corners (as i understand it) in order to identify the modal frequencies. My thought process is that it would be good to take as many measurements from the relevant locations prior to constructing the bass traps, saws and back slot pieces in order to determine any eventual problems. This approach will hopefully give me the correct indication when determine the slot gaps for the saws and the back wall slot piece in order to neutralize troublesome frequency spikes that affect the room. I am also thinking of using the space between the top part of the back wall and the ceiling as a chunk trap (I got the idea from someone in this forum who used the signature "God is the greatest DIY creator" or something in that vain. It stuck with me in part because of his great carpenter skills and in part because; I do not believe in God; and would like keep faith and luck, as much as possible out of the equation). My presumption is that the different treatment options that are going to be utilized affect each other. If my presumption is correct I assume that fixing one frequency spike with, let say the saw wall, might create another spike somewhere else within the parameters of the rooms frequency spectrum. Q2) What is the most efficient empirical proven approach as far as analyzing the room is concerned? Should I start with the bass traps; measure the room again to see how that affects the room; install the clouds; measure the room again; do the saws; measure and then finally do the back slot piece (170 CM high and 500 mm thick)? The reason I did not mention the broadband absorbers is because they are going to be difficult to install before the saws due to the rooms spacial limitations. Any input/thoughts connected to these variables would be greatly appreciated Glenn. :wink: Got to continue reading up on these things. :lol: Sincerely, Useg Diaz-Granados

Glenn I need you!!!!!! Could you PLEASE (lol) help with my questions?????? :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: An update; One of the M-Audio DSM2 monitors that I (lol) purchased did not work; so I am waiting for http://www.thomann.de/ to remedy the situation by giving me what I paid for. The one that did work sounded INCREDIBLE (lol). What a difference when using digital compared to analog cables. I read a thread that made me laugh. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: Some of the HONORABLE members here criticizing Genlec monitors; I wonder if these individuals EVER (lol) made a dime recording or producing music ?????? I am getting close to where I want to be with the dry wall mudding of the room. :wink: Felt forced to purchase a laser to do the leveling work. Hope the honorable members of this forum are doing brilliant (lol) :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: Sincerely, Useg Diaz-Granados

:mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: I gets noooo looove in this forum. From the bottom of my brain Glenn, I miss your guidance and transparency. An update; started the priming process and have only the ceiling and door frame left. The empty spots you see in the pics are reserved for the 1800mm x 1200mm and 180mm thick broadband absorbers. Give you an update tomorrow. Hope the HONORABLE (lol) members of this forum are having a marvelous day. Sincerely, Useg Diaz-Granados

I got the priming done; and I am satisfied with the results. :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: Bought a small roller to access the difficult places and it work great. Plan to start painting tomorrow . I have used Beckers http://beckerspaints.co.uk/products throughout the project and I am extremely satisfied with the results. Even though some of their products, like the drywall mud and the paint, cost more compared to other products I think it is worth the price. I will post some pics tomorrow when the first layer of paint is done. :blah: :blah: :blah: :blah: :blah: :blah: Sincerely, Useg Diaz-Granados

I completed the painting; I don't think it is necessary to add another layer of paint. :wink: :wink: :wink: :wink: :wink: :wink: An update on the monitor; the good thing is that I got a refund; the bad thing is that the monitor cost more when purchased elswhere and that thoman, who's service I am satisfied with, do no longer carry it in their product line offering which means that I have to pay a little more for the second monitor. When that is done it will be time for me to humbly and HONORABLY (lol) engage myself in the process of measuring the rooms frequency response. By the way, the dimmer switches and star lights are protected with paper. I miss interacting with you Glenn!!!!!! :horse: :horse: :horse: :horse: :horse: :horse: Sincerely, Useg Diaz-Granados

:twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: Well; I was not happy with the paint soooo; I repainted it!!!!!! :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: Now I am actually happy!!!!!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XgDrJ5Z2rKw Well; hope the HONORABLE (lol) members of this forum are doing marvelous . :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: Glenn where are you; hope you are doing good :wink: Sincerely, Useg Diaz-Granados