Quick Question on vapor barrier position

I was just wondering, am I suppose to have the faced side of the insulation the other way so the fluff is pointing inside the room? Thanks -Ian

In France we used to put the paper on the inside side .fluff facing outdoor. & Yes I agree free Leonard http://users.skynet.be/kola/vips.htm

If I recall correctly form one of Rod's recent posts, the vapor barrier always goes up against the warmest surface. So if you live in a cool climate where you normally have heating indoors, the vapor barrier goes up against your inner drywall. And if you live in a hot climate, where you normally have the air conditioning full blast indoors, then the vapor barrier goes up against the outer wall. I think! That's just what I recall. Maybe Brien can confirm that? - Stuart -

Here's the post you refer to: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=11636&p=84984#p84984 Andy

Yep, that's the one! Thanks, Andy! - Stuart -

Ok I read Rod's reply at least a dozen times right there haha. So since I live in New England I obviously should keep the vapor barrier the way it is, with the face towards the inside so that the dew point is able to condense this way and the fluff will be against the outermost part of my wall, is this right? Will that barrier have pose any isolation issues if I am using the wall that it's in for my outer leaf?? I'm getting confuse because I just found this - viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5556&hilit=r19+vapor&start=150

Your insulation has kraft paper -- aren't you concerned about the third leaf effect? Aren't you worried about dividing your air gap into two parts, the sum of which are not equal to not having the kraft paper at all? :roll:

The paper would be facing the gap. Sorry, I'm just tryin to grasp this. Thanks guys - Ian

The way I understand what Rod said, the paper face should be up against the drywall of the inner leaf, not facing the gap! The inner leaf is the warmest surface, so that's where the barrier has to go. So you have your faced insulation on the wrong side of the gap, I think! If I understand Rod correctly, you need your faced insulation on the inner leaf studs, and plain old un-faced insulation for the outer leaf studs. - Stuart -

Thanks for your responses Stuart. "I think" :wink: I agree with you as well, from what I have been trying to gather searching far and wide here on the forum. It would make sense acoustically, and if what i think I have been reading proves true; than the outer leaf and gap would not induce moisture because the temp would remain the same as the outside, from the face of the insulation on the first leaf, until the very outer. Hehe, I never thought such a simple thing would be so confusing. :?

I think this one answers the question. Just had a quick read and it seems to agree with what Stuart has said. viewtopic.php?f=2&t=8506&p=59682&hilit=paper+faced#p59682 Andy

Yep, sure does sound like Rod's words verify what Stuart thought, looks like I got some paper ripping to do, thanks Andy

Can you use the paper faced stuff in the inside walls of your drum booth, and then put unfaced insulation where the paper-faced stuff is?

Ha, I didn't even think about switching them out, good point, but I think it would be better to take the paper off and leave the outer wall insulate where it is because it's R-19, which i believe is used for 2x6 wall spacing, while my booth is 2x4.

The instructions on the kraft faced insulation clearly state the paper facing goes to the warm side, which is always considered to be the inside of the structure, even @ Exit4. Which is also why Rod said it. It doesn't change because it is a recording studio. What it does is it makes an "exploded" view. Where once you had a single wall with a thermal envelope, you now have an exploded version where the same thing, in this case, applies. Unfaced insulation on the exterior, kraft(retarder) on the inside. Plastic is a barrier, as the post mentioned with Rods input up topic was about a plastic barrier.

Even at exit 4 X!!? :shock: