Isolating floor and ceiling from the inner leaf

Just a couple quick questions When using the "room within a room method," I am assuming you still do not want the floor and ceiling to come in direct contact with the inner leaf. How is this achieved to be able to make the room air tight? Do you leave space between the drywall and floor-ceiling and use an acoustic caulking to fill in the gap in order to isolate the contact points? Also if I am framing my inner leaf walls on concrete, and wish to finish the floor with a cork tiling, what is a recommended construction on the concrete to build the floor? Tiles glued right on the concrete?

When using the "room within a room method," I am assuming you still do not want the floor and ceiling to come in direct contact with the inner leaf. How is this achieved to be able to make the room air tight?

I'm not sure I understand the question about the ceiling. If you build a room within a room, then there will be TWO "ceilings", not one. The original roof (or floor above, or whatever) will be your outer-leaf, and the NEW ceiling that you build on NEW joists that rest on your NEW inner-leaf walls, will be your second ceiling. There should be no mechanical connections between the two ceilings. The outer ceiling is sealed to the outer leaf, and the inner ceiling is sealed to the inner leaf. The floor, of course, is common to both, unless you floated it or built each leaf wall on a separate foundation. So, in summary, both your outer leaf walls and your inner leaf walls rest on the same floor generally. Your outer leaf walls are connected to your outer-leaf ceiling/roof/whatever. Your inner leaf walls are shorter than your outer leaf walls. Your inner-leaf ceiling rests on the inner leaf walls, and does not touch the outer leaf walls, or the outer leaf ceiling. All of the five sides of the outer leaf are sealed together (to each-other), airtight. All of the five sides of the inner leaf are sealed together (to each-other), airtight. Room within a room. Box within a box. The only common point is the floor, and there isn't much you can do about that. If you are building on a concrete slab on grade, then it shouldn't be a problem. I hope that answered your question, since I'm not sure that I understood it right! - Stuart -

I completely understand that Stuart, I guess my question was, do the inner leaf ceiling and floor components connect directly to the inner leaf walls? Basically does the drywall on the ceiling have direct contact to the drywall on the walls, and the same for the floor tiles all in the inner leaf. I don't know if I am explaining this right haha, I drew a quick little sketchup to show, so do these intersections points need to be separated, or are they suppose to touch, I would figure the inner leaf floor would be transferable to the wall if it ran into the drywall on the inner leaf. Does this make sense, or am I really confusing you haha

In order to keep your ceiling suspended and not touch the frame it would have to be, ah, suspended :) This would require a structure >above< it capable of support it's weight and the addition of the new ceiling weight, plus whatever other variables are involved in the overhead. Usually, walls are placed directly on the floor. But, things like wall panels and floor tile also ceiling panels[panels=sheetrock, etc.] do not make a direct connection with each other. These materials are left short of a connection and are caulked/finished to a sealed edge. Is that getting in your ball park?

Yes Xspace!!! So lets say after putting up the sheetrock in a CR, when it came time to tile the floor, i would stop the tiles just short of the sheetrock on the walls, and caulk the existing gap between the tile and the panels so they do not form a direct connection. Is this correct? If the caulk is semi-solid material though, how does it decouple the connection, is it because it's not a mechanical connection?

Your sheetrock will stop short of the floor so you can run tile under it an eight of an inch or so. Glued down tile, I don't believe is going to be an issue in creating resonance or making any kind of flanking connection ;) Your caulk should be a recommended acoustic caulking, Yes, it is semi solid, but it is the chemical make up of the product that makes it dense and plyable for years. This is a good thing and is the reason why gypsum board makers suggest these products.

So if I understand you correctly I should stop short with the sheet rock then, as opposed to the tile, and gap with acoustic caulk. Exellent thanks Xspace. Forgive me if I ask too much but, I really want to grasp this, but If I cannot do a suspended ceiling, what are my options? Is it possible to put on a framed ceiling (inner leaf like the picture I posted) using the spacing method with the interacting sheetrock, or would I achieve nothing because the inner leaf wall studs would be connected to the inner leaf ceiling frame?

You can place 1/4" strips of wood or something substantial like it, on the floor and place your wallboard directly on top of these shims. This will ensure you do nat make direct contact with the floor, and keep you from getting in a bind. It is very common to construct studio builds from the walls to the ceiling, into one structure. All the framing members support one another or are placed directly on top of each other as building technique suggests. This has worked for many, many people here and elsewhere. When you begin suspending ceilings and other things like that, this requires help from qualified people local to you. This is heavy stuff[weight] and you do not want an overhead floor or garage joist system to try and maintain this weight and to keep erect the building as well. The gap you want is also typical. Just watch what you are doing, do not jamb your panels together in corners or at the floor or ceiling. Where is your build thread?

Thanks X here's my thread - viewtopic.php?f=1&t=11508, I'm redesigning the layout as we speak.