Quick question: If I build corner absorbers exactly to the spec of Johns design. What will be the exact width of each of the slats across the front. I need to get them cut elsewhere before putting them together at my studio.
I knew I should have paid closer attention in 9th grade algebra!
Corner diffuser slat mesurement
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Ronan
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Sen
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Ronan,
Just throw all diferent widths, thicknesses, and gaps (slots) on there, so you cover a wider band of frequencies... You can of course fine tune them for certain frequencies, but that depends on what your offending freq's are etc...just vary them across the front and should be OK
Just throw all diferent widths, thicknesses, and gaps (slots) on there, so you cover a wider band of frequencies... You can of course fine tune them for certain frequencies, but that depends on what your offending freq's are etc...just vary them across the front and should be OK
Kind regards
Sen
Sen
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Ronan
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giles117
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knightfly
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Actually, there's a minor flaw in that design that makes it harder to build. If you make the vertical dimensioned back piece 23" instead of 22" it makes the angled face come out to exactly 45 degrees. This makes the end cuts for the slats much easier to do, and makes the box just generally easier to build.
If you do the 1" extension of the piece shown on the left, then the backs are 23" and 24" respectively. You could then shift the slats inward slightly so that you only have to bevel ONE side of each slat to 45 degrees. Doing this will make the LONG surface of each slat 32 17/32". with its other side exactly 1 inch less (on each end) due to the 45 degree angle. So, the SHORT surface of each slat would be 30 17/32", the LONG surface of each slat would be as stated at 32 17/32".
This would put the outermost edge of each slat flush with the edge of the back board, then the 1 x 2 trim boards would cover the ends of the slats.
For the "beveled 2x1" shown in each inside 45 degree angle, you can have ONE 4x1 board ripped lengthwise down the center, at a 45 degree angle which will give you two beveled 2x1's - these need to be pretty accurate, because you will be fastening all the slats to these and the joints need to be tight.
Sen, if you remember Barefoot's explanations of wave length vs. absorber size, varying slat width is apparently a moot point unless you intend to add individual "septums" between each slat to make many individual Helmholz absorbers. The varying cavity depth may "lower the Q" of the trap somewhat, which would accomplish the same thing - even that effect is doubtful if you follow the wavelength theory... Steve
If you do the 1" extension of the piece shown on the left, then the backs are 23" and 24" respectively. You could then shift the slats inward slightly so that you only have to bevel ONE side of each slat to 45 degrees. Doing this will make the LONG surface of each slat 32 17/32". with its other side exactly 1 inch less (on each end) due to the 45 degree angle. So, the SHORT surface of each slat would be 30 17/32", the LONG surface of each slat would be as stated at 32 17/32".
This would put the outermost edge of each slat flush with the edge of the back board, then the 1 x 2 trim boards would cover the ends of the slats.
For the "beveled 2x1" shown in each inside 45 degree angle, you can have ONE 4x1 board ripped lengthwise down the center, at a 45 degree angle which will give you two beveled 2x1's - these need to be pretty accurate, because you will be fastening all the slats to these and the joints need to be tight.
Sen, if you remember Barefoot's explanations of wave length vs. absorber size, varying slat width is apparently a moot point unless you intend to add individual "septums" between each slat to make many individual Helmholz absorbers. The varying cavity depth may "lower the Q" of the trap somewhat, which would accomplish the same thing - even that effect is doubtful if you follow the wavelength theory... Steve
Soooo, when a Musician dies, do they hear the white noise at the end of the tunnel??!? Hmmmm...