Ok, below is my room. I have yet to treat my back wall or put in pro bass traps. But, I ran a Sine Wave through the system to see the biggest problems. Turns out, if I keep my head locked in the mix position, things are ok. BUT, if I get lazy and lean back about one to two feet, 80Hz almost becomes NOTHING. It just nulls right the hell out. So, any advice as to where to put my bass traps (I'll probably buy Ethans Mini traps) so as to make 80Hz good through most of the room? Any other advice?
Ceilings are 12 feet high to grid.
Found Room Cancelations, Now What?
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Ethan Winer
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Re: Found Room Cancelations, Now What?
Foamer,
> if I keep my head locked in the mix position, things are ok. <
You may not have a hole at 80 Hz there, but you probably have a hole at 60 Hz or thereabouts.
> any advice as to where to put my bass traps (I'll probably buy Ethans Mini traps) so as to make 80Hz good through most of the room? Any other advice? <
Thanks for the vote of confidence, and I'm sure our MiniTraps will help a lot. But I do have some other advice. The biggest cause of holes in your room is the distance from your ears to the rear wall. So if you push your entire rig forward so the speakers are backed up against the front wall, you'll push the hole at the mix position even lower in frequency. Then when you install six or more MiniTraps you'll be in pretty decent shape.
The best place to install bass traps is in the room corners. Not only the wall-to-wall corners, but also the corners where the tops of the walls meet the ceiling. So the general goal is to have enough traps, place them in corners, and space them evenly around the room.
--Ethan
> if I keep my head locked in the mix position, things are ok. <
You may not have a hole at 80 Hz there, but you probably have a hole at 60 Hz or thereabouts.
> any advice as to where to put my bass traps (I'll probably buy Ethans Mini traps) so as to make 80Hz good through most of the room? Any other advice? <
Thanks for the vote of confidence, and I'm sure our MiniTraps will help a lot. But I do have some other advice. The biggest cause of holes in your room is the distance from your ears to the rear wall. So if you push your entire rig forward so the speakers are backed up against the front wall, you'll push the hole at the mix position even lower in frequency. Then when you install six or more MiniTraps you'll be in pretty decent shape.
The best place to install bass traps is in the room corners. Not only the wall-to-wall corners, but also the corners where the tops of the walls meet the ceiling. So the general goal is to have enough traps, place them in corners, and space them evenly around the room.
--Ethan
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barefoot
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Foamer,
Well, you have pretty close to the worst of all cases. The basic room dimensions are a 13ft square as indicated by the blue area of my picture. Along with the 12ft ceilings, the room is very close to a big square box.
I would suggest building angled panel absorbers similar to what I've indicated in green below (perhaps Ethan can custom design these for you). The yellow areas could either be panel absorbers or filled with acoustic hangers. Hangers are preferable and they could even be extended out to the dashed lines. This drawing is to scale (20 pixels per ft).
Thomas
Well, you have pretty close to the worst of all cases. The basic room dimensions are a 13ft square as indicated by the blue area of my picture. Along with the 12ft ceilings, the room is very close to a big square box.
I would suggest building angled panel absorbers similar to what I've indicated in green below (perhaps Ethan can custom design these for you). The yellow areas could either be panel absorbers or filled with acoustic hangers. Hangers are preferable and they could even be extended out to the dashed lines. This drawing is to scale (20 pixels per ft).
Thomas
Thomas Barefoot
Barefoot Sound
Barefoot Sound
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Foamer
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Barefoot, your picture is a lot cooler then mine, thanks for taking the time to do that.... Few questions: Why are the yellow absorbers NOT angled so they are in the corners? I was under the impression that this would be the desired way to control the bass the best. Next, what is a hanger? And, the angled panel absorbers, would these be made of rigid fiberglass or are they the vibrating kind? What if I made two dummy wall structures out of sheet rock on a 2 x 4 frame that are angled like in your picture, and cover them with panels of 703? If you like this idea, would I have to make the angled dummy walls go all the way up 12 feet? Or would 8 feet be ok?
So I would do this: Make two large angled walls on a wood frame, covered with a few pieces of 703, then used Ethan's mini traps in the corners behind the console (which will be moved up to the wall), and I'd put another mini trap on the back wall. How we doing with this??
So I would do this: Make two large angled walls on a wood frame, covered with a few pieces of 703, then used Ethan's mini traps in the corners behind the console (which will be moved up to the wall), and I'd put another mini trap on the back wall. How we doing with this??
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barefoot
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Whoa, hold your horses with all that 703.
Typically you want to begin by adjusting to room geometry in order to break up standing waves as much as possible as well as eliminating early reflections. Then you want to move on to bass trapping to further reduce standing waves and help level out the very low frequency response rise. Finally, after you have taken all those steps, you should selectively treat the room with absorbent material like 703 in order to smooth out the reverberant response.
The angled absorbers I drew are panel absorbers like Ethan's - absorbent at low frequencies, but reflective at high frequencies. You could also build dummy wall structures like you mentioned and just mount Ethan's traps on the face.
Here is John's detailed description of acoustic hangers. http://www.saecollege.de/reference_mate ... encies.htm The yellow areas containing the hangers would simply be masked with fabric. They are very absorptive at all but the lowest frequencies. It doesn’t matter if they are angled or not. Being in the corner of the room is enough.
Thomas
Typically you want to begin by adjusting to room geometry in order to break up standing waves as much as possible as well as eliminating early reflections. Then you want to move on to bass trapping to further reduce standing waves and help level out the very low frequency response rise. Finally, after you have taken all those steps, you should selectively treat the room with absorbent material like 703 in order to smooth out the reverberant response.
The angled absorbers I drew are panel absorbers like Ethan's - absorbent at low frequencies, but reflective at high frequencies. You could also build dummy wall structures like you mentioned and just mount Ethan's traps on the face.
Here is John's detailed description of acoustic hangers. http://www.saecollege.de/reference_mate ... encies.htm The yellow areas containing the hangers would simply be masked with fabric. They are very absorptive at all but the lowest frequencies. It doesn’t matter if they are angled or not. Being in the corner of the room is enough.
Thomas
Thomas Barefoot
Barefoot Sound
Barefoot Sound