New construction garage - block material vs. wood

How thick should my walls be, should I float my floors (and if so, how), why is two leaf mass-air-mass design important, etc.

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79_Limited
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New construction garage - block material vs. wood

Post by 79_Limited »

I am in process of planning to build atwo story garage studio. I am not looking for complete isolation and will not be doing a room within a room build like my last studio.

Does anyone have experience using cinder block filled with sand vs reinforced Sheetrock with green glue/stick construction? I am considering block construction for the first floor. I hear the block may be more expensive and difficult to work with.

I read the Gervais book but I could not find any STC reduction comparing block vs stick construction. All the book mentions is that for heavy isolation you want a proper 2 leaf system even when using block.

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Re: New construction garage - block material vs. wood

Post by Soundman2020 »

Hi there "79_Limited", and Welcome! :)
I am not looking for complete isolation and will not be doing a room within a room build like my last studio.
Just curious, but why are you thinking about doing it that way? Do you live in an area where there are no neighbors with several hundred feet? And no outside noises that could wreck your recording sessions, such as thunder, wind, rain, hail, aircraft, vehicles, etc? Those are about the only reasons that make sense for not isolating a studio.
Does anyone have experience using cinder block filled with sand vs reinforced Sheetrock with green glue/stick construction?
That's a little confusing! You say that you don't need to isolate your studio, but then you are asking about methods for isolating your studio! :?: :)

Since you say you do not want isolation, then an ordinary single timber frame with some type of siding on the outside and a single sheet of drywall on the inside should be all that you need. That's the way houses are typically built anyway, so it will be the least expensive option of all, and will give the same amount of isolation as a typical house wall gives you: around 30 dB, maximum.

Concrete block, on the other hand, will give you a little more, especially if it is sand filled, but the amount of isolation you get depends on many factors, such as the type of blocks you use, how you build the wall, and how you finish the surfaces inside and out.
I am considering block construction for the first floor. I hear the block may be more expensive and difficult to work with.
To a certain extent, yes, but there's not a huge difference either way. Your contractor will be able to do either, so just ask him for the relevant quotes, then you can decide which way to go. But why do you only want to do block for the ground floor? Why not also do it for the first floor?

Also, you mention walls a lot, but isolation does not depend only on walls: the ceiling, roof, windows, doors, HVAC system, electrical system, and overall hermetic sealing are also critical factors.
I read the Gervais book but I could not find any STC reduction comparing block vs stick construction
well, you shouldn't be thinking about STC. It's a lousy system for measuring studio isolation, and was never intended for that purpose at all. STC does not take into account the bottom two and a half octaves of the musical spectrum (nothing below 125Hz), nor does it take into account the top two and a quarter octaves (nothing above 4k). Of the ten octaves that our hearing range covers, STC ignores five of them (or nearly five). So STC tells you nothing useful about how well a wall, door or window will work in a studio.

It is quite possible to have a wall rated at STC-40 that does not provide even 30 decibels of actual isolation, and I can build you another wall rated at STC-30 that provides much better than 40 dB of isolation. There simply is no relationship between STC rating and the ability of a barrier to stop full-spectrum sound, such as music. STC was never designed for that, and cannot be used for that. It was designed to measure typical office, school, shop, hotel, and similar isolation, which is basically in the speech range of the spectrum, not the music range.

Here's what the actual STC specification document says about itself: "4.1 These single-number ratings correlate in a general way with subjective impressions of sound transmission for speech, radio, television, and similar sources of noise in offices and buildings. This classification method is not appropriate for sound sources with spectra significantly different from those sources listed above. Such sources include machinery, industrial processes, bowling allies, power transformers, musical instruments, many music systems, and transportation noises such as motor vehicles, aircraft and trains. For these sources, accurate assessment of sound transmission requires a detailed analysis in frequency bands."

So forget STC as a useful indicator, and stick to TL graphs.
All the book mentions is that for heavy isolation you want a proper 2 leaf system even when using block.
Correct. There's a reason Rod wrote that and nothing more: If you have only a single leaf wall (concrete block, or drywall, or anything else) then that is subject to law of physics know as "Mass Law", which basically says that you will get lousy isolation unless you build a really thick wall with a huge amount of mass in it (EG, a 16" thick solid reinforced concrete wall). Whereas, if you build a two-leaf wall (using any materials: brick, block, drywall, etc.), you can get much more isolation at much lower cost and much simpler construction. Since Rod is talking mostly about how home studio builders can get the same level of isolation as is typically found in professional studios, at low cost and with simple construction techniques, there's no reason for him to go into the much more expensive and complex techniques that you'd need for a single leaf wall to get the same levels of isolation. That would involve much beefier foundations and slabs, to support the huge weight, as well as placing a lot of expensive form-work and rebar, then getting the large amount of concrete pumped in, having a team of experience concrete workers to make it all happen, etc. That's not the purpose of his book; he wants to show the average home builder how to get pro-level studios using average level building skills, typical building materials, and reasonable costs.

By the way, I noticed that you have your control room set up on the second floor, but you have it facing the wrong way if you want to have usable acoustics: it will not be much use with the mix position facing the stairwell. Turn it around so the mix position faces the wall on the left of your image (where the other desk is), and that would certainly be workable. You also need to get the speakers off the desk and on top of stands, if you want to avoid the typical artifacts created by the "cheap" setup shown in your diagram. Just doing that will greatly improve the acoustics at the mix position. The stands should be very heavy: some people use hollow metal stands filled with sand, others use bricks or blocks.

There are several other things you could do to improve both rooms, acoustically, if you are interested.



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79_Limited
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Re: New construction garage - block material vs. wood

Post by 79_Limited »

Soundman thanks for the thorough response.

My garage is actually in the city and I do have neighbors. It is a tight fit in my back yard so I was hoping to not build a room within in a room since I would lose valuable square footage. Also, I don't need extreme isolation here since it will just be me rehearsing with a small band at reasonable hours.

For the upstairs I don't need much isolation at all since everything I will be playing back at low volumes.

You ask why I would just want to use isolation on the first floor? Mostly due to cost and I do need some isolation on the first floor. I do not plan to do any windows on the first floor (just an entrance door).

SomI guess the question remains is there any advantage to using block over stick construction if I go with just a single leaf design? Do you know of any resources I could read concerning block construction?

That's interesting about the mix position? Are you saying I should position the mix desk against the wall on the other side of the room? I thought it was ideal that you position the desk one this of the way back into the room? This is confusing now.

Understood on building heavy duty monitor stands. This was just for illustration purposes.

I look forward to learning more.
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Re: New construction garage - block material vs. wood

Post by Soundman2020 »

My garage is actually in the city and I do have neighbors.
... so you do need isolation! :) There are legal limits regarding how much noise you can make at different times of day, and for residential areas, those limits are not very high. Even during the day. Check the website for your local municipality, and look for the noise regulations. You will likely be shocked by just how little noise you can make.
I was hoping to not build a room within in a room since I would lose valuable square footage.
You will lose about 5" on each wall. Is that too much?
Also, I don't need extreme isolation here since it will just be me rehearsing with a small band at reasonable hours.
To me, "small band" implies drums. Drums are the loudest of all instruments, and the hardest to isolate. A drum kit can easily out out 115 dBC, and more. 115 decibels is probably about a million times over the legal limit. I'm not joking when I say that: I really do mean one million times the permitted intensity. The decibel scale is logarithmic, so if your noise level is 60 dB over the limit, that means you are "1 followed by six zeroes" over the limit. Each increase of ten dB is an increase of ten times the intensity. 20 dB is 100 times the intensity. 30 dB is 1000 times the intensity... etc.
For the upstairs I don't need much isolation at all since everything I will be playing back at low volumes.
Studios are normally calibrated at 85 dB, and that's roughly the level that most engineers mix at. If the legal limit in your area is (for example) 45 dB, then that implies that you need 40 dB of isolation, which is about ten times more than a typical house wall can give you.
I guess the question remains is there any advantage to using block over stick construction if I go with just a single leaf design? Do you know of any resources I could read concerning block construction?
The best resource I know of for that is IR-586, which you can get on the Canadian National Research Council website. I used to have a link to it for direct download, but they changed their whole website system around a couple of years back, and it is now much harder to navigate. You'll have to search around about to find it. They have a huge library of very,l very useful acoustic papers on there: well worth the effort to find! The BBC research department also has a huge library of acoustic research, and they probably do have something on masonry walls, but I don't recall anything specific off hand.

That's interesting about the mix position? Are you saying I should position the mix desk against the wall on the other side of the room?
The speakers go against the wall: the desk goes a little way back into the room. In a small room, the speakers need to be as close to the wall as you can get them, allowing only a few inches for the acoustic panels that need to go between the speaker and the wall. Then you locate your mix position (your head) correctly for the speaker setup. Then you set up the desk so you can reach it comfortably when your head is in the "mix position".
I thought it was ideal that you position the desk one this of the way back into the room? This is confusing now.
The theoretical ideal location for your ears is 38% of the distance between the front wall and the back wall, but that is NOT a hard and fast rule! It is just a starting point. Many factors with the room itself can change that.

With your case, I'm not suggesting that you flip the room just to get the mix position correct: I'm suggesting it to make the room usable! Right now, with your current layout, you have the speakers positioned far away from the front wall, and directly over a cavity (the stair well) that is very much different where the left speaker is, from where the right speaker is. The acoustic response of your speakers will be very different, so you will not have a good stereo image or accurate sound stage. One of the critical key parameters for a control room is that the front section must be absolutely symmetrical, with the left half being a mirror image of the right half. A steeply sloping staircase totally destroys that symmetry.

If you flip the room, you fix that. Left-right symmetry is now established, and you can also get the speakers up against the front wall, where they belong.

There's a procedure for setting up the initial layout in a control room that should get you a usable situation, which you can then tweak by trial and error if you want. It gets the speakers and your head all in the correct relative locations within the room, at the correct angles, positions and heights. You should follow that procedure to design your room.

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79_Limited
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Re: New construction garage - block material vs. wood

Post by 79_Limited »

Stuart,

I did more reading on block construction and best case if done properly it would get me an STC rating of 55 even when filled with grout/sand. Not great and from reading I can do better with 2 leaf construction.

I am ok with doing the 2 leaf room in a room construction on the first floor which is where I will need my higher isolation. I am trying for more simplicity on the first floor which is why there will no windows and just a double door.

For the 2nd floor is there a compromise without having to do a full room within a room design to keep things simple and more cost effective? The 2nd floor will have quite a few windows (in a historical neighborhood) and has to fit the design of my house so higher isolation will be more difficult.
79_Limited
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Re: New construction garage - block material vs. wood

Post by 79_Limited »

Here is the initial rough design working with the architect. This is needed to get through the city (historical landmarks committee).

It gives you an idea and look of the size Imeill be working with.

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Re: New construction garage - block material vs. wood

Post by xSpace »

Sound Transmission Loss Measurements Through 190 mm and 140 mm blocks with Added Drywall and Through Cavity Block Walls.
http://archive.nrc-cnrc.gc.ca/obj/irc/d ... /ir586.pdf
Soundman2020
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Re: New construction garage - block material vs. wood

Post by Soundman2020 »

Thanks, Brien! I should have known that you'd have a link for that! :)

(It's good to see you back on the forum as well!!! :thu: )

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Re: New construction garage - block material vs. wood

Post by xSpace »

Thank you Stuart. Life is a bit uncluttered these days so maybe I can be of service to you guys.
79_Limited
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Re: New construction garage - block material vs. wood

Post by 79_Limited »

Stuart,

Thanks for the help. I made changes to the design. I decided to move the stairs outside of the building and do the room within a room design on the first floor for the music room. This will allow me to keep the carriage style garage doors to the front but isolate it from the back room.

I will either do a double door or super door for the music room that needs the most isolation. It is not the perfect room dimensions for the music room (15x18) but it is what I have to work with. My mixing room dimensions on the 2nd floor (15x26) is better.

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