i have updated the drawing and attached the file. I have a few different issues at hand. There is pre existing ceilings in this building how would i DE couple the ceilings from each other in each room? I was thinking of just putting resilient channel in the existing ceiling and adding a layer of drywall to that. But i feel like i will run into a problem because the existing ceiling runs all threw out the building.
I also have a garage door in the building that i would like to leave if i can and disconnect the hardware and insulate and go over it on the inside with Sheetrock. If you have any ideas on how i can accomplish this please let me know. Thank you very much you and John have been a big help thus far and i start construction in 4 days i will be uploading step by step pictures and explanations to help others out with there studio builds. I also would like to know if the dimensions look good for recording? if not can you help me out with some revisions before i start to build. I would like to add that all the new walls will be built with the double stud approach , with two layers of drywall on each side(with green glue in between each piece) insulation in between the studs also i will be installing resilient channel on all inside walls.
Getting ready to Start Construction Just Few More Questions?
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Mike808
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Soundman2020
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Re: Getting ready to Start Construction Just Few More Questi
That would also create a 3-leaf ceiling with a very thin air gap, so low frequency isolation would be pretty lousy.There is pre existing ceilings in this building how would i DE couple the ceilings from each other in each room? I was thinking of just putting resilient channel in the existing ceiling and adding a layer of drywall to that. But i feel like i will run into a problem because the existing ceiling runs all threw out the building.
The correct way to do the ceilings is to take off the existing ceiling, leaving only the floor or roof that is above you as the outer leaf, then build the new inner leaf ceiling for each leaf on top of the inner leaf wall that corresponds to each room. In other words, no connection between rooms at all, either in walls or ceilings.
If you need good isolation, then you'll need to stud build a frame that completely seals off the garage door area, put drywall on only one side of it, and fill the cavity with insulation. Yes, that does create a third leaf, but there are no other good options for that, so you need to compensate with higher mass and larger air gaps.I also have a garage door in the building that i would like to leave if i can and disconnect the hardware and insulate and go over it on the inside with Sheetrock. If you have any ideas on how i can accomplish this please let me know.
Plug in your dimensions to one of the room analysis calculators, to see how they stack up, and adjust as necessary:I also would like to know if the dimensions look good for recording?
http://www.bobgolds.com/Mode/RoomModes.htm
http://amroc.andymel.eu/
That sounds very much like you are proposing to build 3-leaf or even 4-leaf walls! They won't isolate very well for low frequencies. The correct method is to build each room as a stand-alone single-leaf structure, meaning a single stud frame with drywall on only ONE side, and also to make sure that the building shell around you is also only a single leaf. That way, you get proper 2-leaf construction, which is the most effective and lowest cost for good isolation.I would like to add that all the new walls will be built with the double stud approach , with two layers of drywall on each side(with green glue in between each piece) insulation in between the studs also i will be installing resilient channel on all inside walls.
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Mike808
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Re: Getting ready to Start Construction Just Few More Questi
Hi Stuart i have added a photo of the wall construction i think this will explain more then i can In regards to the 3 and 4 leaf situation.
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xSpace
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Re: Getting ready to Start Construction Just Few More Questi
If you build your inner walls as a double wall assembly and then attache them to the existing structure, you may as well have not done it at all. You have to develop a basic design plan/layout first.
After that is complete, you consider your electrical and the HVAC. You have to do this second but while you are doing the first thing...the layout and design.
If you start construction as you have and you have not a clear defined blueprint, you can expect manner things to be over-looked that will not only cost you money but reduce the isolation of the structure.
For example, your picture shows a framed assembly next to the foundation wall that is attached to the foundation wall with a cleat. Flanking path and you want to reduce all flanking.
Also, you are posting multiple threads about this one build in hopes that you will generate some eyeballs and conversation. It does not help and only confuses the on lookers. Please keep all the questions in regard to one build in one thread.
It will prove to be more helpful to you...and to all of us.
After that is complete, you consider your electrical and the HVAC. You have to do this second but while you are doing the first thing...the layout and design.
If you start construction as you have and you have not a clear defined blueprint, you can expect manner things to be over-looked that will not only cost you money but reduce the isolation of the structure.
For example, your picture shows a framed assembly next to the foundation wall that is attached to the foundation wall with a cleat. Flanking path and you want to reduce all flanking.
Also, you are posting multiple threads about this one build in hopes that you will generate some eyeballs and conversation. It does not help and only confuses the on lookers. Please keep all the questions in regard to one build in one thread.
It will prove to be more helpful to you...and to all of us.