What would be the best way to seal of existing ceiling?
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- Posts: 11
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What would be the best way to seal of existing ceiling?
Our new place has a pictched roof from 10 feet to about 18 feet. The roof is curently metal bars and aspestos sheets. I understand I need to make this a mass leaf but what would be the best way to do this. Could I, for example leave this roof and put more layers on the top of my internal rooms roof?
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- Senior Member
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There's a couple ways to do this... not sure which will work best for you.
If the framing is heavy enough, you could attach OSB or MDF to the bottom of the roof deck, between the framing, and then attach drywall to that. Couple concerns here...
First, check on how the roof is built. If it's just metal panels with the rubber roof on top, I would avoid this route because screwing to the metal panel may puncture your waterproofing. There may be rigid foam insulation on top of the metal deck, there may not, but FIND OUT. If the rigid foam is up there, then you should be ok- and most of the time, there will be, but you don't want your studio to be leaking water every time it rains...
Second, if the framing is light (bar joists or something like that) then this won't do too much good because sound will get right between your nw panels and thru the roof.
Anyway, if you don't mind losing the ceiling height, and if you'll be building a room-within-a-room, it may be better for you to just put drywall on the bottom of the framing and build the second leaf up from underneath.
The third thing you can do is kinda what you suggested; since it's the roof, chances are it's pretty much sealed (otherwise it'd leak). Go around and double check on that, but it may function as a mass leaf just as it is. It may not be much of a mass leaf, but I believe you can just make the inner leaf heavier to compensate (Knightfly will correct me if I'm wrong, but I've seen it suggested elsewhere...)
If you're using bar joists, you can probably set your internal room framing between them and have the finish ceiling inside the rooms only lose a little height. But then again, if it slopes up to 18 feet, you've got plenty of height...
Hope this helps!
Kase
www.minemusic.net
If the framing is heavy enough, you could attach OSB or MDF to the bottom of the roof deck, between the framing, and then attach drywall to that. Couple concerns here...
First, check on how the roof is built. If it's just metal panels with the rubber roof on top, I would avoid this route because screwing to the metal panel may puncture your waterproofing. There may be rigid foam insulation on top of the metal deck, there may not, but FIND OUT. If the rigid foam is up there, then you should be ok- and most of the time, there will be, but you don't want your studio to be leaking water every time it rains...
Second, if the framing is light (bar joists or something like that) then this won't do too much good because sound will get right between your nw panels and thru the roof.
Anyway, if you don't mind losing the ceiling height, and if you'll be building a room-within-a-room, it may be better for you to just put drywall on the bottom of the framing and build the second leaf up from underneath.
The third thing you can do is kinda what you suggested; since it's the roof, chances are it's pretty much sealed (otherwise it'd leak). Go around and double check on that, but it may function as a mass leaf just as it is. It may not be much of a mass leaf, but I believe you can just make the inner leaf heavier to compensate (Knightfly will correct me if I'm wrong, but I've seen it suggested elsewhere...)
If you're using bar joists, you can probably set your internal room framing between them and have the finish ceiling inside the rooms only lose a little height. But then again, if it slopes up to 18 feet, you've got plenty of height...
Hope this helps!
Kase
www.minemusic.net
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- Posts: 11
- Joined: Sat Feb 21, 2004 12:20 pm
Cheers,
The roof is just aspestos supported on what like like quite flimsy metal bars. I don't they would take much extra weight. So could I just make it air tight and make up the the loss in outer mass by adding more mass to the inner structure.
I really need the sound proofing to be right!
Thanks again.
The roof is just aspestos supported on what like like quite flimsy metal bars. I don't they would take much extra weight. So could I just make it air tight and make up the the loss in outer mass by adding more mass to the inner structure.
I really need the sound proofing to be right!
Thanks again.
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- Senior Member
- Posts: 357
- Joined: Tue Dec 02, 2003 7:21 am
- Location: Madison, Wisconsin
Interesting. But there's a waterproofing system over the top of all this, right?The roof is just aspestos supported on what like like quite flimsy metal bars.
If it's fairly light, you might be best served by just pretending it doesn't exist for acoustic purposes. Have a local architect/structural engineer take a look at it and ask them if it'll support a layer of 5/8" drywall.
Put that up there, and seal it really, really good. Then build your inner layer nice and hefty.
Kase
www.minemusic.net
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- Senior Member
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- Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2003 11:11 am
- Location: West Coast, USA
"If it's fairly light, you might be best served by just pretending it doesn't exist for acoustic purposes." - Kase's comment is probably the best thing to consider in most cases - outer roofs need to breath in order to keep from rotting/rusting/molding, etc - in most cases, leaving the outer part vented for that purpose and concentrating on two separated mass leaves inside that works best all around... Steve