Layout Help Please!

Travis · Post by **Travis** » Tue Mar 30, 2004 9:38 am

I am trying to find the best way to layout my studio.

My semi-finished basement is 28X20 ft. and has a dividing wall that goes straignt down the middle (20 ft.), I assume it is the support for the upstairs. I also have a few storage closets in one half, with the folding type doors.

Here is the closets...
<img src=http://www.robertsrecording.com/3.jpg>

This is a look at the wall dividing the basement, the door between the rooms and the "makeshift" window I added.

<img src=http://www.robertsrecording.com/4.jpg>

I have sketched a rough idea of what I may do, maybe some of you could help me out in how I could lay my studio out. I can rip out the closets if needed. Just wondering the best way to do this. Thanks!

<img src=http://www.robertsrecording.com/room2.jpg>

Any comments or drawings would be APPRECIATED!!

Travis

VSpaceBoy · Post by **VSpaceBoy** » Tue Mar 30, 2004 3:11 pm

Looks pretty good but I wouild read up on angles and so forth. There is tons of information around here. Run some searches and I bet you'll find just what your looking for.

Ron

dbluefield · Post by **dbluefield** » Tue Mar 30, 2004 4:50 pm

Travis,

Are we talking construction? -- as in rebuilding/budget constraints etc?

I'm curious about the unfinished part of the basement.

Best,

Dave

Travis · Post by **Travis** » Tue Mar 30, 2004 9:37 pm

Yes, construction.

As you can see from the photos, I have exterior windows and the wall between my control and live room is a standard wall, nothing special.

The unfinished basement would be nice to fix up, but would cost me too much money and plus it has my furnace, hotwater heater, and other storage items. I am using it now when I need to isolate an amp, maybe I could build a small iso booth for amps, etc...

Just wondering if this layout would be the best way to use my space??

My ceiling is low, (around 7 ft.) I would like to have a good drum booth/ live room. Upstairs noise isn't a concern, but if I add a "floating ceiling" it would be WAY TOO LOW! What would be the best way to approach this with the space I have shown in the drawing above?

dymaxian · Post by **dymaxian** » Wed Mar 31, 2004 12:38 pm

Yes, that layout would work. Look at some of John's designs for more details about the control room and how exactly the front wall works with your speakers, but in general, that'd be fine.

Try to keep the window and door from the control room to live room beside or behind the listening position- that way reflections from the speakers will go behind you instead of right into your ear. You may want to remove the window, and get a door with a large window thru it.

Are you having isolation problems between the control and live rooms? Or is it sufficient for what you record in there? If you need more isolation, work on that door before you do anything else, but if it's a big problem you may want to add RC to the live room side.

If you don't want your ceiling to get any lower, but are having flutter echo problems, you may be ok with just putting a layer of rigid fiberglass flat against the ceiling... you'll lose an inch or 2 of height (depending on how thick you get the insulation) but it'll make a big difference.

Hope this helps...

Kase
www.minemusic.net

Travis · Post by **Travis** » Tue Apr 06, 2004 7:49 am

Thanks alot everyone....one dumb question, what does RC stand for?

Also, on my door and the window....should I add one door with a window or two that swing different ways?

Are you suggesting patch the makeshift window I added and have a "exterior type" door with a built in window>? Isolation hasn't been a problem for me yet, however, I would like to have the most for my $.

I would like to have a nice "isolated" vocal booth somewere though....

dymaxian · Post by **dymaxian** » Wed Apr 07, 2004 12:29 am

RC stands for Resilient Channel. It's a metal strip used to mount drywall when you want it isolated from the studwall; the drywall is free to vibrate without passing that vibration on to the studs and giving sound a path thru your wall.

It wouldn't be bad to have a double-door there. Making tight seals when the doors close will do more than having a second door, so make sure the weatherstripping is good.

My concern with the window is that reflections from the speakers will come right at the listening position. If you can get doors with a good window in them (good meaning well-sealed and fairly heavy) that'd work for you, I'd think.

Kase
www.minemusic.net

dbluefield · Post by **dbluefield** » Tue Apr 13, 2004 5:05 am

Here's a thought.

I would consider cutting into your ceiling drywall and make ceiling clouds, specifically over the mix position -- If noise to the floors above is of no huge concern, Stuff with 703 or R19, cover with flameproof fabric.

Remove the carpet from the floors of both rooms, perhaps leave some at bottom of stairs. Replace with some nice looking harwood. You might even consider floating the floor over some house sheathing and 1/4" plywood.

Best,

Dave

dbluefield · Post by **dbluefield** » Tue Apr 13, 2004 5:10 am

Actually forget the messy idea of cutting into your ceiling. Like Dymax suggested - use a 2, maybe 4" layer of 703. Better yet drop in a grid system mabe 4" down and pop 703 fabric panels in place.

Best,

Dave

Travis · Post by **Travis** » Thu Apr 15, 2004 7:30 am

WOW, thanks for the layout and ideas, you have been a BIG help!

That looks great! I would like to use all the space to the fullest capicity, for example, under the stairs is a small closet, could fit an amp or half stack in there. Since it will be so close to the live room, I would like it to be as isolated as possible. Would I need to float a floor in that room, basicly a room inside a room with RC and everything?

Also, as mentioned earlier, I would like to have at least one iso booth for vocals or it could double as another amp iso booth. I was thinking about basing it around the smaller closet beside the stairs in the drawing above. I record alot of bands, often they have more than one guitar amp. Plus, for example, I am starting a project for the music department of a local college and they will have several musicians and singers. The music is pop-style music. I plan on tracking the musicians and then the 8 singers who often sing in harmony. I could use gobos and probably will with them, but in the future, I would like to have at least one good iso with a window. I guess I'd have to float this room as well eh?

Thanks again for all the help!

Travis

dbluefield · Post by **dbluefield** » Thu Apr 15, 2004 9:22 am

Maybe this:

Dave

Travis · Post by **Travis** » Thu Apr 15, 2004 11:19 am

You are the man!

I love that layout!! Now if I can get the $$ rolling to begin my project....

But back to what I asked earlier...do I need to float my floors, right now I have carpet over concrete. In my control room I want to have the "wood" look alike stuff they have at lowes. It goes together like hardwood floors, but isnt wood, so it would be great acording to the folks at lowes for a basement.

Talking about this is really making me excited and eager to start building!! Thanks!!

Travis

dbluefield · Post by **dbluefield** » Thu Apr 15, 2004 12:15 pm

do I need to float my floors, right now I have carpet over concrete. In my control room I want to have the "wood" look alike stuff

I might not go as far as the joists on pucks as illustrated on SAE. Mainly because it makes more sense for full blown facilities IMO, but keep reading around. You could try what I did.

I took Malcolm Chisholm's advice in my 2 rooms and layed plywood over house sheathing (like tyvek - its aluminum on one side, plastic on the other, poly foam in the middle) -- lay the sheathing on the concrete - glue plywood (or even luan) to the sheathing with construction adhesive -- staggered seams. Then use flooring glue and wood/parquet on top of plywood per directions. Don't touch the side walls with this "floating floor." -- you can get to within a 1/2 inch or closer.

The house sheathing creates a moisture barrier over the concrete and the floor will stay put -- as floors do not get up and walk away, even though it is not glued or nailed to the concrete.. Parquet squares are dirt cheap and look good on diagonal, simply snap a cross center on the room, glue your center square on the diagonal, and build out from there(the only pain is cutting the wall peices - I made a jig for that). The thin wood flooring composite products also looks very nice - probably more expensive -- but probably easier to work with. Either way this technique won't take up much ceiling height -- as you need as much as you can spare, because of the dropped ceilings you need.

Best,

Dave