Moderators: Aaronw, kendale, John Sayers
In between those two. The insulation goes in the gap between the outer leaf and inner leaf.I've a doubt: I've a first leaf made of brick. The second one is only two layers of gypsum. Where I put the rockwool?
They are not stupid! It would only be stupid if you did NOT ask a question that you need answers to...Sorry about my stupid questions
But this does not calculate the isolation, does it? This will depend on the material I use.In between those two. The insulation goes in the gap between the outer leaf and inner leaf.
Stated above the dB results on the left column in your picture, is "Transmission Loss in dB with insulation (isothermally)"But this does not calculate the isolation, does it? This will depend on the material I use.
I'm not sure what you mean by insulation. Do you mean isolation? Do you mean the same amount of surface density for your inner leaf as your brick outer leaf? Please clarify.it's very difficult to get the same value of the insulation of the bricks with the materials available in my area.
You don't NEED to have the same amount of surface density. I'd say as long as you have at least two layers of drywall, your outer to inner leaf surface density is enough to work. I know bricks density is crazy compared to drywall though. So, if you put in two layers of drywall for your inner leaf and the brick for you outer leaf, check how those results calculate. If they appear to achieve roughly what your isolation requirements are, then hooray.The most common is gypsum board. Even with 4 gypsum board I can't get the same value.
Again, I assume you mean surface density?I've to do a market research to get the values of the insulation of gypsum board in stores near me.
No. Even though there is the word "glue" in the name, it is far from glue. It's like sticky goop that never dries. You still need to use drywall screws in your drywall like normal.Green glue is a good thing to glue all the boards?
Ok, new calculations to learn!I believe the MSM formulas are based off of perfectly filled cavities using insulation with the correct gas flow resistivity to dampen resonant frequency of the wall system.
I'm not sure what you mean by insulation. Do you mean isolation? Do you mean the same amount of surface density for your inner leaf as your brick outer leaf? Please clarify.
Yes and yes... I assume insulation and isolation has the same meaning. I googled it and understand the differenceAgain, I assume you mean surface density?
It appears to result. Only on the low end I don't get great results. But about 70 dB at 80Hz it's good especially for the control room.You don't NEED to have the same amount of surface density. I'd say as long as you have at least two layers of drywall, your outer to inner leaf surface density is enough to work. I know bricks density is crazy compared to drywall though. So, if you put in two layers of drywall for your inner leaf and the brick for you outer leaf, check how those results calculate. If they appear to achieve roughly what your isolation requirements are, then hooray.
The MSM equations do not consider the limitations of mechanical transfer of the floor. 70 dB at 80Hz is basically unrealistic. Sure, if your walls were decoupled from everything and the room was floating or even on it's own slab, then maybe you could get 70dB of isolation at 80Hz, but for a normal home studio build, the laws of physics don't allow us to achieve such high isolation without going a step further than a basic room in a room construction. Having said that, if the calculator shows those numbers, chances are you are going to get great isolation provided you build with care.It appears to result. Only on the low end I don't get great results. But about 70 dB at 80Hz it's good especially for the control room.
Why would you need 70 dB isolation at 80 Hz?But about 70 dB at 80Hz it's good especially for the control room.
That's rather extreme!!! Are you planning to have real guns and canons in there?Not if you want it to isolate! It will have TWO walls: or rather, it will have a wall that is made up of two "leaves": the "outer-leaf" and the "inner-leaf". Like this:My room within a room will only have 1 wall,
Right. The brick wall is the outer-leaf of your isolation system, the drywall on the frame is the inner leaf. But you do need to make sure that your outer-leaf completely surrounds the studio, and that the inner leaf is a complete sealed shell as well. Two leaves as in the image above. Both are complete "shells", unbroken continuous mass around the studio (except for the doors, windows and HVAC, of course: not shown in the above diagram).the new drywall wall, decoupled from the brick wall with isolation in the gap between both. Is this?
Ok, I understand. 70dB is the overall. I think it's enough for me! Me playing drums is near 120dB!Take a close look: at 80 Hz, it s getting maybe 38 dB of isolation, roughly. And that's a VERY good result. The overall isolation of that wall is around 70 dB, which is probably higher than the flanking limit for most home studios.
Understood!Not if you want it to isolate! It will have TWO walls: or rather, it will have a wall that is made up of two "leaves": the "outer-leaf" and the "inner-leaf". Like this:
If you want less angle, I think a simple solution would be to just move your soffits closer to you. It will help fit deeper speakers anyway.I think I'm going crazy with this RFZ!! But this is the best I can do to have a RFZ in a good proportion of the room.
I know I will sit very close to the first reflections, but I have to close this part of the project to go forward and start to building soon.
I had to angle the speakers to 20º to get a mixing point at 36% of the room without reflections.
Doubts: the distance between speakers and the 40º angle.
Or move the speakers further apart: they do seem to be a bit close together.... 147cm isn't too bad, but it doesn't seem to fit the room width. What is the width of the room?I think a simple solution would be to just move your soffits closer to you.
310cm and 470cm lengthWhat is the width of the room?
I tried to do that, but only works if I move mix position to close to 25% of the room and lost the empty space to put a analogue mixer. I need at least 100 cm to the mixer.One more thing: the soffit baffle itself is only 50cm wide: that's not very much, given all the space you have there. I would try to make the main baffle wider, and the wings smaller, with more space between the speakers, and better angles all around.
Instead of moving YOU, move the entire front wall assembly towards you. Problem solvedI tried to do that, but only works if I move mix position to close to 25% of the room and lost the empty space to put a analogue mixer. I need at least 100 cm to the mixer.
Why? Don't move the mix position: Just change the angles of the speakers!!!I tried to do that, but only works if I move mix position to close to 25% of the room and lost the empty space to put a analogue mixer. I need at least 100 cm to the mixer.
But, theoretically, if I change the angles of my speakers the ideal mix position moves... or not ??Why? Don't move the mix position: Just change the angles of the speakers!!!
