On Purpose Productions detached garage studio

[snowdog99]

I'm thinking you should be, yes.

Please keep me posted. I'm dying to know how the pinouts work.

If you look at the front of the panel, with the locking tab down, upper left should be pin one. So, if you flip it over (looking at the back), I think it would stand to reason that the upper right would be pin one? Unless they have done some weird routing of the cable, right?

Hmmm....

[onpurposeproductions]

Success! Got the two computers talking. I also verified the ethernet run from the house - I'm actually currently in the studio typing this. Thanks a lot for your input Andy - it was much appreciated!

Upward and onward - I was one bag short of insulation but the rest is all installed - and I'm about ready to be done with the stuff. I'll be doing some acoustical caulking and vapor barrier next. Glass also arrives in the morning and I hope to get that in asap.

[onpurposeproductions]

Some pics of insulation;

You can see I added a couple outlets at the main monitor location

[onpurposeproductions]

And the glass was delivered this morning. I picked up 150' of glazing tape from the same place I'm getting my sliding glass door. They threw in a handful of neoprene shims. Just got to get the 1/4-round trim stops and I'm ready to install.

The glass looks green with the roxul behind it but its clear glass

[Ro]

very sweet ! Can't wait to see those babies get in place

[wmtunate]

So the key issue here is that the pins on the connector (in this case wall plate) work in pairs to send and receive? I still don't think I understand why it would matter which cable is connected to which pin - just so longs as they matched on either side.

Twisted pairs are the reason that Cat5e cable doesn't need to be shielded. The twist in the balanced connection reduces the effects of EMI and crosstalk. For short runs, point to point will probably work, but you probably won't ever reach the full bandwidth potential of the system.

For the same reasons, balanced audio cables are also twisted pairs internally.

[onpurposeproductions]

trouble........much trouble

I've spent the last day and a bit installing the glass.

FIRST PROBLEM: The first issue I came up against was one of the jam stops was bowing/warping out in the middle, such that the glass pressed up against the glazing tape firmly in the middle of the pane and not at all on either end.

This was the first pane to go in to the CR/LR window. Removing the pane once it was pressed up against the glazing tape required me pushing full force on one side while my wife stood ready to hold the glass up on the either side. It was VERY difficult to get it to release from the tape - it actually pulled off part of the wood in one spot.

To fix the problem I decided to simply add a second layer of glazing tape in the spots where it was needed.

SECOND PROBLEM: The last pane to get installed was the CR side of the CR/LR window. Once it was installed and I was cleaning all the smudges I noticed bubbles in the glass at the bottom of the pane. I obviously didn't inspect them close enough before installing . My glass guy said he had to re-do two panes before completing my order due to bubbles (its been very humid here and his shop is not climate controlled - apparently the cause). I spoke with him this morning and he'll make another immediately - not a problem.

But - getting that pane out is going to be extremely difficult! I don't know how its going to happen yet. Perhaps a right-angled flathead screwdriver could get in behind and scrape away the tape? A heat gun would theoretically break down the adhesive.....

THIRD PROBLEM: This morning I discovered that the two exterior windows were fogging up on the inside. One of them was completely caulked on both sides and should have been totally sealed - obviously not. Same big issue of removing the panes in order to ensure everything is properly sealed.

Today is not a happy day.

[Ro]

Sorry to hear about that!!

Don't you have such glass carrier thingy that you'll attach on the pane by removing the air underneath (vacuum).. dunno what it's called. It'll make it easier on you to move the glass.

[onpurposeproductions]

Don't you have such glass carrier thingy that you'll attach on the pane by removing the air underneath (vacuum).. dunno what it's called. It'll make it easier on you to move the glass.

You mean suction cups? Like these:

http://www.qfonic.com/images/products/2 ... mage01.jpg

[Ro]

yes

[onpurposeproductions]

Since I caulked thoroughly around the edges of both panes of glass in each window it seems pretty clear that the air/moisture is coming in through my 1/8" gap between the jam stops. I also had a 1/8" gap on the bottom jam which I caulked to create the seal (pictured) - obviously not well enough.

But the air is getting to that gap presumably from my gaps around the window on the exterior and interior. I'm wondering - if the moisture inside the window dries up and I caulk these exterior and interior gaps while its dry whether I might get lucky and not have to remove any panes......?

I have no idea how that works though - if its dry that could just mean the moisture has evaporated but is still between the panes just waiting to condense again when the air cools.

I've created quite a situation here for myself. My hole design seems really questionable now - that decoupling gap was not worth this...

[xSpace]

Hey guy, sorry to read about your concerns. a few things that may help...work with me

It is a typical procedure to wrap the exterior of the building and let this wrap come into doors and window ways. I cannot locate a procedure page on the Internet that shows what I am referring to, but it is an important part of what you are doing.

It isn't a small thing to consider how both sides of your wall are open to the environment with little protection, it matters as you have found out.


I didn't go back through your build but if it is a double framed system then this is big in what you are dealing with. Not only can the moisture pass through the unprotected areas around the boundaries of the framed hole for the window...once it gets in it is free to move in the cavity of a double framed wall system.


Simple enough I would think to get the exterior of the build completely wrapped and resistant to moisture after removing the window and allowing a dry time.

[lilith_envy]

I know silcon beads help reduse the "fogging" between the frame. It might not be sealing problem but simply moisture caught between while being installed.

[onpurposeproductions]

xSpace - thanks a lot for your thoughts! I was hoping you might post something

It is a typical procedure to wrap the exterior of the building and let this wrap come into doors and window ways. I cannot locate a procedure page on the Internet that shows what I am referring to, but it is an important part of what you are doing.

The garage was wrapped when it was built 9 years ago but not in the newer Typar stuff - it was wrapped in that black tar paper (pic). I cut it back to the same point as the siding when I was starting work around the windows.

once it gets in it is free to move in the cavity of a double framed wall system.

Definitely something I want to avoid. My plan had been to acoustically caulk all gaps on the exterior and then tuck tape right from the window jam to the tar paper. Its clear now that I should have done that BEFORE putting in the glass. IF I can get those panes of glass out without breaking them then I'll do that once its dried out and probably also caulk the 1/8" gap in between the window stops (I was trying to avoid that for aesthetic reasons... )

Simple enough I would think to get the exterior of the build completely wrapped and resistant to moisture after removing the window and allowing a dry time.

It would probably be good to replace the tar paper with some Typar.....but the thought of removing all the siding isn't appealing at the moment. Maybe once everything's complete inside?

I think Ro's suggestion of those suction cups may be really helpful in trying to pull the glass out. That glazing tape does its job extremely well.

[onpurposeproductions]

I know silcon beads help reduse the "fogging" between the frame. It might not be sealing problem but simply moisture caught between while being installed.

Hi Lilith - I was wondering the same thing. It gets pretty humid around here in the summer and was particularly so when the glass went on if I remember right. But it really seemed to me that the air was flowing into the cavity - just by the way the fogging/condensation increased over the course of the day and then decreased towards the end (I almost took pics of that). But I don't know.....

I guess the best thing to do would be to wait for a relatively dry day to close everything up a second time.