Jules,
> floor, corner mounted RPG style corner bass traps. Specifically to attack below 100hz - would this not be advantageous? <
Sure, but they'll have to be pretty large to absorb very low frequencies. And you'll need a lot of them, partly because they're tuned to a specific range.
> large bass traps half way down the side length of the room, isn't this a good idea too? <
I've had good results using the ceiling corners rather than flat on the walls. But for large rooms with high ceilings you'll benefit from adding wall mounted traps too.
--Ethan
16" or 1' Bass Traps in Corners?
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Thank You Steve
Steve my main man what's up? I was just hitting you back to say thank you for your help, I really do appreciate it but don't put up your pills just yet because I see more headache coming your way. I still have three more rooms to build and fix up. I'm still saving my money but I decided to start working on the details now because this lilltle room took me a long time to build. I tryed to do this sooner but with my real job and recording people and the site being down it took me while but I finally got to it, so I'm off to the other sections of the forum and I'm out.
Thank You
Ozzie
P.S.
Steve can you go to the studio design section and see if you can help out with some of my questions?
Thank You
Ozzie
P.S.
Steve can you go to the studio design section and see if you can help out with some of my questions?
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Re: I'm startung to see light
Now I know this is an old thread, but this caught my eye- go buy enough unfaced (or faced, I don't suppose it matters) 6"ish fiberglass insulation, the soft stuff. Lay it on top of all your ceiling tiles (don't put it on can lights, they'll heat up and you'll mow through lightbulbs if you don't burn down the studio first). That should give you a marked increase in low end control, especially if you've got more than 8-10" above the ceiling tiles.
And if you ever play with mode calculators, use the ceiling height of the actual ceiling, not the drop ceiling. Come to think of it, you could put panel traps up in the ceiling/wall junction *above* the drop ceiling- that's where they're gonna do best anyway, because that is your acoustical boundry. But I wouldn't bother, just lay the insulation and see what happens.
And if you ever play with mode calculators, use the ceiling height of the actual ceiling, not the drop ceiling. Come to think of it, you could put panel traps up in the ceiling/wall junction *above* the drop ceiling- that's where they're gonna do best anyway, because that is your acoustical boundry. But I wouldn't bother, just lay the insulation and see what happens.
I have acoustical ceiling tile and I don't know what I can use to hold up the bass traps.
Jon Best
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Good looking out
Hey Jon Best, I think that is a great idea not only do I get my bass trapping but you can't see it. I already have 3" or 3 1/2" of insulation on top of my ceiling tile but i can add three more inches of insulation on top of that and if that not a nuff I'll put some panel bass traps in the corners unless someone ejects to this idea. My ceiling was 9' when I started to build my studio but I now there is another extra 2 or 3 feet above that. I'll try to see if I can get to that part of the ceiling.
Thank You
Ozzie
P.S.
I wonder if you can build a panel bass trap like Ethan Winer with acoustical ceiling tile on one side? If that works I think that would be a good idea because you can still place the panel bass trap in the corner and still have your acoustical ceiling and corners normal and clear.
Thank You
Ozzie
P.S.
I wonder if you can build a panel bass trap like Ethan Winer with acoustical ceiling tile on one side? If that works I think that would be a good idea because you can still place the panel bass trap in the corner and still have your acoustical ceiling and corners normal and clear.
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