Newbie seeking advice on acoustics
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Newbie seeking advice on acoustics
Hey peoplez!
I found this site at Ethan's forum and think that it's a really great one. If I knew before that I could get so much design advice I would have a much better studio. Unfortunately, I already started and built the main separations and now I need some advice on how to deal with the acoustics. I'm attaching a roughly made layout of what I've done.
The walls are all concrete ones.
I'm thinking that the best thing to do is to built finishing walls as wood panel bass traps with different plywood thicknesses and vertically inclined outward. Behind the speakers however, the wall would have to be inclined inward and the ceiling downward from the front to the back.
I truly would like not to do these things because my space is already limited and it's much more work for me. I'm kind of looking for an easier but practical way out of all this work. But if it's what I should do then I'll do it.
Any feedback will be much appreciated.
Thanks.
I found this site at Ethan's forum and think that it's a really great one. If I knew before that I could get so much design advice I would have a much better studio. Unfortunately, I already started and built the main separations and now I need some advice on how to deal with the acoustics. I'm attaching a roughly made layout of what I've done.
The walls are all concrete ones.
I'm thinking that the best thing to do is to built finishing walls as wood panel bass traps with different plywood thicknesses and vertically inclined outward. Behind the speakers however, the wall would have to be inclined inward and the ceiling downward from the front to the back.
I truly would like not to do these things because my space is already limited and it's much more work for me. I'm kind of looking for an easier but practical way out of all this work. But if it's what I should do then I'll do it.
Any feedback will be much appreciated.
Thanks.
Lata!
RichR.
RichR.
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Hi John,
There are two problems with doing that:
First, the door of the office would be blocked, and if I would try to leave enough space in front of the console for it, the distance advantage would be voided.
Second, the room is already shaped this way with concrete walls. It's impossible for me at this time to rebuild them.
As I said before, if I knew I could get so much great advice with the design of the studio, it would turn out much better. That's why I'm trying to make it work the best that I can now.
Thanks for your input.
Any other ideas with the setup I have?
There are two problems with doing that:
First, the door of the office would be blocked, and if I would try to leave enough space in front of the console for it, the distance advantage would be voided.
Second, the room is already shaped this way with concrete walls. It's impossible for me at this time to rebuild them.
As I said before, if I knew I could get so much great advice with the design of the studio, it would turn out much better. That's why I'm trying to make it work the best that I can now.
Thanks for your input.
Any other ideas with the setup I have?
Lata!
RichR.
RichR.
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Rich, once again sorry for blowing up at you over on RO - I'm usually pretty mellow, I must have finally reached my limit what with all the crap that's hit the fan around here lately -
Anyway, I'll try to help where I can - Barefoot's the moderator here, but he's been really pushing trying to "roll out" his new speaker company, and is probably at least twice as stressed as I was earlier -
You confused me with your ceiling slope descriptions - both ways you worded it still left me wondering if it's to be high in front of the room and low behind the mix position, or otherwise. If you're going for RFZ, the ceiling should be low in front of the mix position, rising to the rear.
If you can, I'd make those front corners bigger and angled inward by 30 degrees, so you can have the option of flush mounting your speakers at a later date (much cleaner sound field that way)
The rear of your CR is too close for anything but heavy absorption - any room smaller than about 20-25 feet across should be absorbed - greater minds than mine agree with this...
Tilting the frames of your front wall inward at the top will help the RFZ, and you can use the space behind the paneling for bass hangers, which your concrete "bunker" will need bunches of (bass trapping, that is) - rigid walls don't flex and absorb low end like paneled walls do, so all that energy is still rattling around. Variously tuned Ethan Winer type bass traps should be around the entire perimeter of your ceilings where possible to kill some of the bass.
Speaking of concrete, is that the only "leaf" your walls have, just the concrete? Here are some variations on what you could do with the walls to improve sound isolation, and possibly a bit of bass trapping built in -
Gotta go for now, still on extra shifts at work... Steve
Anyway, I'll try to help where I can - Barefoot's the moderator here, but he's been really pushing trying to "roll out" his new speaker company, and is probably at least twice as stressed as I was earlier -
You confused me with your ceiling slope descriptions - both ways you worded it still left me wondering if it's to be high in front of the room and low behind the mix position, or otherwise. If you're going for RFZ, the ceiling should be low in front of the mix position, rising to the rear.
If you can, I'd make those front corners bigger and angled inward by 30 degrees, so you can have the option of flush mounting your speakers at a later date (much cleaner sound field that way)
The rear of your CR is too close for anything but heavy absorption - any room smaller than about 20-25 feet across should be absorbed - greater minds than mine agree with this...
Tilting the frames of your front wall inward at the top will help the RFZ, and you can use the space behind the paneling for bass hangers, which your concrete "bunker" will need bunches of (bass trapping, that is) - rigid walls don't flex and absorb low end like paneled walls do, so all that energy is still rattling around. Variously tuned Ethan Winer type bass traps should be around the entire perimeter of your ceilings where possible to kill some of the bass.
Speaking of concrete, is that the only "leaf" your walls have, just the concrete? Here are some variations on what you could do with the walls to improve sound isolation, and possibly a bit of bass trapping built in -
Gotta go for now, still on extra shifts at work... Steve
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- Joined: Thu Dec 04, 2003 11:28 am
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Hello all,
Here are the changes I've made. Is it closer to a working acoustical plan?
Since I can't test before I build the walls, which thicknesses of plywood do you think I should use to get the best absorbtion on the widest range of bass frequencies?
Some feedback would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Here are the changes I've made. Is it closer to a working acoustical plan?
Since I can't test before I build the walls, which thicknesses of plywood do you think I should use to get the best absorbtion on the widest range of bass frequencies?
Some feedback would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Lata!
RichR.
RichR.
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Rich - your plan is missleading in your scale - the console isn't that big.
This is how I'd do it. You still have access to the office and the window allows sight to the studio. If you could shut off the upstairs door and access upstairs some other way it would be even better.
BTW the desk, doors and couch etc are to scale.
cheers
john
This is how I'd do it. You still have access to the office and the window allows sight to the studio. If you could shut off the upstairs door and access upstairs some other way it would be even better.
BTW the desk, doors and couch etc are to scale.
cheers
john