About Framing angled walls and the wall layers ?

M300SEL · Post by **M300SEL** » Fri Dec 28, 2007 4:20 pm

i have just started building my booth (At Last) , the full story is over here : http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewt ... ght=#65313

its a double wall with two layers of 5/8" MDF in the inner and outer wall ,

the outer wall has vertical walls and a sloped one , the inner wall has two angled walls , and i am not sure if my framing detail is right or not , here is the picture :

Q's :

1- is this the right framing ?

2- all the sketches in most threads I studied shows how to do the wall layers in vertical walls , but in angled walls i have no idea for the best way for it ,

is the solution Backer Rod and Caulk ?

or should i cut the corner edges to fit like this :

Ro · Post by Ro » Fri Dec 28, 2007 6:04 pm

That last pic is better.
You know it's just like framing corners. Hang GB layers one at the time, there's some stickies IIRC about that procedure. Might wanna keep the backerrod and kit ready to use here(!)

M300SEL · Post by **M300SEL** » Fri Dec 28, 2007 8:24 pm

Hi Ro

The thing is when hanging the wall layers one at a time in angled walls , unlike 90ْ corners the wall layers will not fit on each other , and cutting the angle edges of the wall layers like in my last pic is not an easy process

isn't there an easier way to seal them tight ?

Ro · Post by Ro » Fri Dec 28, 2007 8:46 pm

hmm, good question. I'd still go for pic 2, might be a bit of (tedious) work indeed.

Haven't got hands-on epx with splayed GB walls...

rod gervais · Post by **rod gervais** » Sat Dec 29, 2007 12:04 am

M300SEL wrote:Hi Ro

The thing is when hanging the wall layers one at a time in angled walls , unlike 90ْ corners the wall layers will not fit on each other , and cutting the angle edges of the wall layers like in my last pic is not an easy process isn't there an easier way to seal them tight ?

It isn't all that difficult to use a rough drywall plane and treat those edges to fit.

The bottom line is that your room seal (TL value) is exactly equal to how much effort you want to invest in making sure there can be no air movement what so ever -

I do find myself curious however on some of your details.......

In the pic above it looks like one of the inside walls have only a 2x2 plate? Why isn't that a full ex4 (x6?) like the inner wall running top to bottom on the right hand side?

Also - it looks like there is some sort of additional frame attached to the inside face of the outside frame (in the upper right hand corner) - what is that for?

Rod

M300SEL · Post by **M300SEL** » Sat Dec 29, 2007 3:33 am

In the pic above it looks like one of the inside walls have only a 2x2 plate? Why isn't that a full ex4 (x6?) like the inner wall running top to bottom on the right hand side?

Sorry the sketch was not fully detailed, my concern was the studs on the angles are they done right or should i add more ,and did not draw the upper plate for the inner wall

both walls are 2×4 , on a 2×6 wooden deck filled with insulation and floated over U-Boats , i have read on your bock : ( Fill it with sand or just build it on your floor and don't waste your time and money) But i Kind of convinced my self that i would not have those low frequency problems with vocals unlike drumheads , or would i

Also - it looks like there is some sort of additional frame attached to the inside face of the outside frame (in the upper right hand corner) - what is that for?

again sorry for not giving the full details , it is all in the link up there ,

the wall you asked about is the wall for the existing room I'm building the booth in ,

maybe this pic will make it clear ( its from my old design which was totally changed after gullfo's recommendation to go with double wall instead of staggered) :

and Rod , i said hi to you there

but looks like you don't visit the Design forum often.

Wael

M300SEL · Post by **M300SEL** » Sat Dec 29, 2007 5:16 am

Speaking of Walls , In all Green Glue sketches , they treat each two layers with green glue in between as one layer ! meaninig that they dont do one layer at a time when hanging the walls, for example :

does that mean Green Glue Company recomends not doing one layer at a time for walls when it has GG in between ?

rod gervais · Post by **rod gervais** » Sat Dec 29, 2007 5:28 am

No - I don't visit there that often......... that's John's baby - his design concepts - usually once that part is finished all the work goes on in the construction forum.

Exactly how far away from the existing concrete walls is your first wall assembly (I ask because I am concerned about the 3 leaf wall systems you have in place).

As far as the deck goes - hey - you walked into it with your ees wide open - if it works for you - great - if it doesn't I won't feel bad.

My issues with it still remain - first - you're only thinking of the sound in the room escaping or making the "drum head" vibrate - how about sounds from the other direction - like from some kid driving down the street with his bass kicking inside his car and the volume loud enough that you can hear it 3 blocks away?

Also - you have no valid data to suppourt the placement of the U-boats seeing as they have never been tested in any labs - and their effectiveness at any particular spacing is just a wild guess.

Anyway - no sense crying over spilt milk..........

Good luck,

Rod

rod gervais · Post by **rod gervais** » Sat Dec 29, 2007 5:34 am

M300SEL wrote:Speaking of Walls , In all Green Glue sketches , they treat each two layers with green glue in between as one layer ! meaninig that they dont do one layer at a time when hanging the walls, for

does that mean Green Glue Company recomends not doing one layer at a time for walls when it has GG in between ?

First - they don't view them as one layer - they view them as one leaf....... you have to do one layer at a time in order to lap joints properly - etc.

I think you perhaps mean that they indicate that they would be installing both of the ceiling layers before starting wall layers - and thus not intersecting the drywall corners the way I indicate in my book.

If that is what you're referring to - then no - I still recommend that you do exactly what I indicate - and then use their product in-between subsequent layers.

GG - it is not a glue- - it is also not a caulk - trying to fill up corners with it doesn't make sense - not filling the corners doesn't make sense - so do it like I've detailed and then install their product (and the next layer) exactly as they have indicated.

Sincerely,

Rod

M300SEL · Post by **M300SEL** » Sat Dec 29, 2007 6:43 am

Exactly how far away from the existing concrete walls is your first wall assembly (I ask because I am concerned about the 3 leaf wall systems you have in place).

there is a 15cm space between the existing concrete wall and the right side of the deck, with the two wall layers ( one is 1.7cm the other is 1.5 ) that will leave me about 11.8cm space between the booth and the existing wall.

and a 10cm space between the sloped concrete wall and the sloped edge of the deck , and with those two wall layers , there well be a 6.8cm space left.

don't tell me its too short

My issues with it still remain - first - you're only thinking of the sound in the room escaping or making the "drum head" vibrate - how about sounds from the other direction - like from some kid driving down the street with his bass kicking inside his car and the volume loud enough that you can hear it 3 blocks away?

Also - you have no valid data to support the placement of the U-boats seeing as they have never been tested in any labs - and their effectiveness at any particular spacing is just a wild guess.

will i never thought of the lab testing for it , being a product from a big trusted acoustic company like Auralex made me trust this product , and about the spacing i followed the instructions on their acoustic101 :

http://www.acoustics101.com/floors.asp

Anyway - no sense crying over spilt milk..........

Hey there is always a cow for more

how about the corner framing is it ok that way ? should i go ahead and nail the walls ? or do i need more studs for those corners ?

i will try to finish drawing the full framing and post the link for the .skp file tomorrow , i am slow with this program .

M300SEL · Post by **M300SEL** » Sat Dec 29, 2007 6:48 am

First - they don't view them as one layer - they view them as one leaf....... you have to do one layer at a time in order to lap joints properly - etc.

I think you perhaps mean that they indicate that they would be installing both of the ceiling layers before starting wall layers - and thus not intersecting the drywall corners the way I indicate in my book.

If that is what you're referring to - then no - I still recommend that you do exactly what I indicate - and then use their product in-between subsequent layers.

GG - it is not a glue- - it is also not a caulk - trying to fill up corners with it doesn't make sense - not filling the corners doesn't make sense - so do it like I've detailed and then install their product (and the next layer) exactly as they have indicated.

Great , thanks alot for your fast replies