What type of Latch for inside of Superdoor

RLL05 · Post by **RLL05** » Thu Oct 04, 2007 12:14 pm

I built a super door as described in Rod's book (2 layers of Type K GM Trunk moulding, magnetic weatherstriping). The outside of the door has a pull handle.

The book describes using a latch on the inside of the door. What type of latch is best to use, i.e., one that keeps the door tight against the seals and is safe so someone can get into the room if necessary?

Thanks,
RL

johnz · Post by **johnz** » Sat Oct 06, 2007 11:49 am

how about a commercial grade door closer? they can fit on either side of the door, and no latch is necessary. also you won't need to put holes in your beautiful new door.

rod gervais · Post by **rod gervais** » Sat Oct 06, 2007 12:08 pm

RL,

the door should have a closure, but you can also install a deadbolt with a thumb latch on the inside to securely lock the door in place.

Schlage makes a mortise deadbolt with a 5" back set (required to get you past all the gaskets) - it one of their "B" Series and you should be able to order it from any hardwware company that specializes in doors & hardware

Rod

RLL05 · Post by **RLL05** » Tue Oct 09, 2007 12:18 pm

Thanks, guys. I am using a commercial grade door closure but need something extra to keep the door tight against the seals and magnetic weatherstriping. The mortise deadbolt should do the trick.

RL

RLL05 · Post by **RLL05** » Thu Nov 22, 2007 10:31 pm

Rod,

I apologize for the follow-up but I have one more question. If I add the thumb latch on the inside with the 5" Schlage B series mortise, would I need to have a thumb latch on the outside too? I am concerned that if the door gets pushed tightly from the outside against the gaskets, the interior thumb latch could catch and I could get locked out.

I am trying to avoid a hole through the door and sheetlead reducing the isolation, although thumb latches probably require a smaller hole then traditional door knobs.

By the way, great advice in your book about the door being the weakest link. I built double walls 2 layers of 5/8 sheetrock outside and inside, separate frames with air space, a window with 1/2" lami on the outside and 3/4" on the inside and you can't hear anything until you get to the door. When the super door is pushed tightly against the gaskets (including the Zero drop seal at the bottom) it does a very good job of keeping the sound in the room. And yes, the door took some time to get it right but without the superdoor, the rest of the methods would be a waste of time and $ - the door is critical. Thanks for writing the book and providing excellent advice. I will post pictures soon.

rod gervais · Post by **rod gervais** » Fri Nov 23, 2007 1:23 am

RLL05 wrote:Rod,

I apologize for the follow-up but I have one more question. If I add the thumb latch on the inside with the 5" Schlage B series mortise, would I need to have a thumb latch on the outside too? I am concerned that if the door gets pushed tightly from the outside against the gaskets, the interior thumb latch could catch and I could get locked out.

I always use a keyed lock for the outside - you can install a pull handle on both the inside and outside of the door - this way you can hand the handle to pull on if you are inside.

But I like the idea of being able to lock out rooms in my studios -

Example - some one books the tracking room to record in - I can use the iso booth to store gear without worry about having any theft issues.

I am trying to avoid a hole through the door and sheetlead reducing the isolation, although thumb latches probably require a smaller hole then traditional door knobs.

Unless you get real sloppy installing it (and you don't sound like it would be the case) this is not an issue......

By the way, great advice in your book about the door being the weakest link. I built double walls 2 layers of 5/8 sheetrock outside and inside, separate frames with air space, a window with 1/2" lami on the outside and 3/4" on the inside and you can't hear anything until you get to the door. When the super door is pushed tightly against the gaskets (including the Zero drop seal at the bottom) it does a very good job of keeping the sound in the room. And yes, the door took some time to get it right but without the superdoor, the rest of the methods would be a waste of time and $ - the door is critical. Thanks for writing the book and providing excellent advice. I will post pictures soon.

The super door really is a good design - and done properly negates the need for a double dopor.

Glad you like the book.......... have you given it a review at Amazon? If not I would appreaciate it - the reviews really help out.

Sincerely,

Rod

BradJacob · Post by **BradJacob** » Fri Nov 23, 2007 10:34 am

rod gervais wrote:Glad you like the book.......... have you given it a review at Amazon? If not I would appreaciate it - the reviews really help out.Rod

Rod -

You should post this and have everyone do this for YOU.

After all, we've got a lot of priceless (time & money-saving) advice from you, so this is a way we can return the favor. I'm sure everyone on this forum would agree...

I'll go there in the next day or so and leave you some good feedback.

Have a great Thanksgiving (what's left of it)

- Brad

RLL05 · Post by **RLL05** » Sat Nov 24, 2007 11:02 am

Thanks, Rod. I just reviewed the book on Amazon. Should be available in 48 hours.

By the way, do you know of a resource that sells locksets for doors that are 2 3/4" inches thick? That's where mine wound up when adding the 3/4" plywood and sheet lead to the solid core door. It looks like Schlage will make them to order...that may be the best source.

BradJacob · Post by **BradJacob** » Sat Nov 24, 2007 3:42 pm

RLL05 wrote:Thanks, Rod. I just reviewed the book on Amazon. Should be available in 48 hours.

By the way, do you know of a resource that sells locksets for doors that are 2 3/4" inches thick? That's where mine wound up when adding the 3/4" plywood and sheet lead to the solid core door. It looks like Schlage will make them to order...that may be the best source.

I think one of the nice benefits of having a quality closure is that is reduces (if not completely eliminates) any vibrations that can loosen the door or make the taped joints crack. If a door is left to slam shut, after time things just come apart.

It like with Harleys: they Lock-Tite everything because vibrations loosen things up.

rod gervais · Post by **rod gervais** » Sun Nov 25, 2007 1:46 am

BradJacob wrote: By the way, do you know of a resource that sells locksets for doors that are 2 3/4" inches thick? That's where mine wound up when adding the 3/4" plywood and sheet lead to the solid core door. It looks like Schlage will make them to order...that may be the best source.

Go with Schlage - I believe they are one of the few manufacturers who also make a 5" backset, whi ch is pretty much what you need if you have more than 1 gasket level on a door (I use 3).

Rod

Cram · Post by **Cram** » Sun Dec 09, 2007 10:55 am

rod gervais wrote:Glad you like the book.......... have you given it a review at Amazon? If not I would appreaciate it - the reviews really help out.

Rod, back at you. I hadn't thought to do this, but it's a courtesy worth paying back.

Hopefully you see a review from Cram up there soon after I've submitted this one.

--
Thanks! Your review is being processed.
Your review will be posted on the site, typically within 48 hours. You'll be able to see the review either on the product page, or on your profile page. If your review has not appeared online and you'd like to know why, contact us.
--

John Sayers' Recording Studio Design Forum Archive

What type of Latch for inside of Superdoor

What type of Latch for inside of Superdoor

Thumb latch on inside - what about the outside?

Re: Thumb latch on inside - what about the outside?

Re: Thumb latch on inside - what about the outside?

Re: Thumb latch on inside - what about the outside?