Panel Traps vs. 4-6" of 703

Plans and things, layout, style, where do I put my near-fields etc.

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dbluefield
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Location: Marietta, GA, USA

Panel Traps vs. 4-6" of 703

Post by dbluefield »

If the absorption coefficient of 4" of Fiberglass board is nearly 100% as stated here,:

http://www.saecollege.de/reference_mate ... 0Chart.htm

It seems easier to build thick 703 treatment (that absorbs low end as well as mid high) than to build panels absorbers?

Owens corning data suggests even better Sabins for unfaced 703 6" thick.

What can the panel absorber do, that 6" of 703 can't?

Best,

Dave Blauvelt
knightfly
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Post by knightfly »

"What can the panel absorber do, that 6" of 703 can't?" -

a - Not over-absorb your mids/highs.

Depending on what the rest of your room is like, you may want to ONLY trap bass, in order to balance the reverb characteristic of the room.

Only if you could find a material that was 100% absorbent to ALL frequencies of sound would you want to cover your entire room with it - then you'd be listening in a true "free field" - and even THAT would take some getting used to (can you imagine how "wet" your mixes would be at first?), since we're so used to having a certain amount of reverb... Steve
Soooo, when a Musician dies, do they hear the white noise at the end of the tunnel??!? Hmmmm...
dbluefield
Posts: 158
Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2003 10:47 am
Location: Marietta, GA, USA

Post by dbluefield »

Hey Steve,

I'm grappling with my small control room treatment. I extra Mid/High absorption could be a good thing on my rear wall. Check out my latest here and tell me what you think if you get a chance.
:shock: <----too much acoustical theory for one day :D
Best,

Dave Blauvelt
dbluefield
Posts: 158
Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2003 10:47 am
Location: Marietta, GA, USA

Post by dbluefield »

Hey Steve,

I'm grappling with my small control room treatment. I think extra Mid/High absorption could be a good thing on my rear wall. Check out my latest here :

http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewt ... =3642#3642

and tell me what you think if you get a chance.

:shock: <----too much acoustical theory for one day :D

Best,

Dave Blauvelt
John Sayers
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Post by John Sayers »

Dave - with your new design you've added brightness to the room with the timber and slots and glass. I'd treat the rearwall with heavy 703 as you suggested as there will be enough high end in the room as it is.

cheers
john
dbluefield
Posts: 158
Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2003 10:47 am
Location: Marietta, GA, USA

Post by dbluefield »

Thanks John,

That was what I was thinking, full 6" of 703,perhaps spaced 2" off the rear wall.

As for slotted panels in the rear corners -- too live? Can you cover slotted/hemholtz style panels with a litlle 703 between the slots?

Best,

Dave :lol:
John Sayers
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Post by John Sayers »

As for slotted panels in the rear corners -- too live?
yup - room's tooo small.

cheers
john
dbluefield
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Location: Marietta, GA, USA

Post by dbluefield »

HI John,

How about the space between the the soffit mounted speakers on the front wall? I noticed some folks put slotted panels there.

Are there any other specs/drawings for building soffits? Seems like I could build a couple of angled (30/60 degree) templates, and then experiment with the soffit face placement -- then figure exact speaker placement after I know where the soffit face is located. Hmmm. I might want to angle down a bit as well.

Ive read some of barefoots posts on not soffiting rear ported speakers, but sounds like some have given it a go? The cutting edge of project studio design. :D

Best,

Dave Blauvelt
John Sayers
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Post by John Sayers »

How about the space between the the soffit mounted speakers on the front wall?
yes - that's a good idea - take a look at Sonar Studios at http://johnlsayers.com/Studio/index.htm - they've done it.

cheers
john
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