Please help my room. It has many many problems. First off, the room is made of drywall, the drop ceiling is 12 feet high, their is carpet on the floor. As seen in the diagram, the whole back wall behind the console is covered in 2 inch foam. The back corners have two stacked pieces of Auralex 360s, covered by two stacked pieces of 3 inch Auralex foam. The side walls have 3 pieces of 2 inch on the left, and 2 pieces of 3 inch on the right. Back wall is bare, and there is a mini couch on that wall.
So its dry as hell in the room. When you talk, it sounds dead. But more importantly, the stuff coming out of the speakers lacks high end air and I notice that I am applying more effects then necessary. But the biggest problem is the bass. I have to dip my head under the console to hear it. In the mix position, there is very little sub lows. I thought that the 4 Auralex bass traps (there's 8 feet of em in each corner) would do SOMETHING. Please help. Should I rip it all down and make some panels from 703 and some traps from 705 and maybe a rear wall diffusor? Put a wood tiled plank over much of the carpet? Please give me some direction, at this point I would do better if I could bring my studio in my car and mix there. I remixed this one track about ten times after referencing in my car, it was either too much bass or too much effects.
Studio Foam is Killing Me
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On your side walls, You should build Johns Slot Resonators
<img Src = "http://www.johnlsayers.com/HR/images/Unit_1_imp.jpg" >
The Auralex Sunbursts are really not as effective as you have discovered. And I am glad you mention the High end thing. I tried to explain it to someone else when I had my auralex walls up and they couldn't get it. But it exists.
Out of the Mouth of 2 or 3 Witnessess, Every word shall be established. Cool. Thanks for being the 2nd witness.
Anywa, I'd build Johns Corner Traps for your front corners:
<img src = "http://www.johnlsayers.com/HR/images/Co ... it_imp.jpg" >
That way you get reflectivity in the room with those units and REAL absorption that you were seeking with the Auralex Foam.
I have about 48 sheets of 2" and 16 Lenrds. Know any takers. LOL
Finally, I'd put two Bass Traps, Ala Johns specs on your front wall and rear wall (behind that sofa)
<img src = "http://www.johnlsayers.com/HR/images/Unit_2_imp.jpg" >
Here is an example of the tratments placed
<img src = "http://www.johnlsayers.com/HR/images/room.jpg" >
I have a friend whose basement is similar to your design. I added an additional bass trap sized to fit the bacl wall of the open area to the left of your room. (where your steps are located)
That worked fine for him.
How tall is your ceiling?
All of this can be found comprehensively at:
http://www.johnlsayers.com/HR/index1.htm
Bryan Giles
We were able to build all these units for about $400.00 Up here in Michigan.
BTW, we uses Mineral Wool instead of 703. It was about .50 cents less expensive per sq. ft, 703 would have rtaised the cost about $200.00 for what we did.
<img Src = "http://www.johnlsayers.com/HR/images/Unit_1_imp.jpg" >
The Auralex Sunbursts are really not as effective as you have discovered. And I am glad you mention the High end thing. I tried to explain it to someone else when I had my auralex walls up and they couldn't get it. But it exists.
Out of the Mouth of 2 or 3 Witnessess, Every word shall be established. Cool. Thanks for being the 2nd witness.

Anywa, I'd build Johns Corner Traps for your front corners:
<img src = "http://www.johnlsayers.com/HR/images/Co ... it_imp.jpg" >
That way you get reflectivity in the room with those units and REAL absorption that you were seeking with the Auralex Foam.
I have about 48 sheets of 2" and 16 Lenrds. Know any takers. LOL
Finally, I'd put two Bass Traps, Ala Johns specs on your front wall and rear wall (behind that sofa)
<img src = "http://www.johnlsayers.com/HR/images/Unit_2_imp.jpg" >
Here is an example of the tratments placed
<img src = "http://www.johnlsayers.com/HR/images/room.jpg" >
I have a friend whose basement is similar to your design. I added an additional bass trap sized to fit the bacl wall of the open area to the left of your room. (where your steps are located)
That worked fine for him.
How tall is your ceiling?
All of this can be found comprehensively at:
http://www.johnlsayers.com/HR/index1.htm
Bryan Giles
We were able to build all these units for about $400.00 Up here in Michigan.
BTW, we uses Mineral Wool instead of 703. It was about .50 cents less expensive per sq. ft, 703 would have rtaised the cost about $200.00 for what we did.
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Wow, thats a big step but if I gotta do it, I will. Few questions. Can you give a testimony as to how more effective this was then your auralex and Lenrds? Were you having problems with the Auralex too?
What kind of insulation did you use for the absorbers? Can you be so kind as to give some info as to where I can buy it?
Stupid Question: How do you air tight seal these traps?
Moderately Stupid Question: What is the material used to make the front slats? It says that the sides are MDF, but doesn't talk about the sides...
Do the 1 x2 s in the corners go all the way down the trap?
Which of these traps will be effective in the sub lows, under 150 Hz?
Should the corner and side traps go from floor to ceiling?
If so, can I make them half the size for ease of build and stack them?
I have my door in the back right, what should I do about that (I can't trap that back corner cave). Ok, thats it for now.
Thanks,
Foamer
What kind of insulation did you use for the absorbers? Can you be so kind as to give some info as to where I can buy it?
Stupid Question: How do you air tight seal these traps?
Moderately Stupid Question: What is the material used to make the front slats? It says that the sides are MDF, but doesn't talk about the sides...
Do the 1 x2 s in the corners go all the way down the trap?
Which of these traps will be effective in the sub lows, under 150 Hz?
Should the corner and side traps go from floor to ceiling?
If so, can I make them half the size for ease of build and stack them?
I have my door in the back right, what should I do about that (I can't trap that back corner cave). Ok, thats it for now.
Thanks,
Foamer
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Re: Studio Foam is Killing Me
Foamer,
As Bryan said, lots of things are better than foam at low frequencies. What you are experiencing is the classic problem of being oversold too much foam, so now the room is way too dead and you still have problems at low frequencies.
John's plans that Bryan showed will work, but you could build corner traps out of 705 for a lot less trouble. Or even easier and better, just get something like my company's MiniTraps. Either way you'll do well to remove at least half the foam that's on the walls, but leave what's in the corners.
--Ethan
As Bryan said, lots of things are better than foam at low frequencies. What you are experiencing is the classic problem of being oversold too much foam, so now the room is way too dead and you still have problems at low frequencies.
John's plans that Bryan showed will work, but you could build corner traps out of 705 for a lot less trouble. Or even easier and better, just get something like my company's MiniTraps. Either way you'll do well to remove at least half the foam that's on the walls, but leave what's in the corners.
--Ethan
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Ye I was having major problems with Auralex. All the issues You had I had, Except for the Bss issue due to how I had the room layed out. I used a second room as a bass trap. But mids and highs were over damped and I couldn't tell what the truth was.Foamer wrote:Wow, thats a big step but if I gotta do it, I will. Few questions. Can you give a testimony as to how more effective this was then your auralex and Lenrds? Were you having problems with the Auralex too?
I used 703 for the Bass Trap and AFB for the absorbersWhat kind of insulation did you use for the absorbers? Can you be so kind as to give some info as to where I can buy it?
You use acoustic sealent just as you would caulk around a window frame, calk all the points where wood meets (all corners, crevices, etc...)Stupid Question: How do you air tight seal these traps?
The front slats, I used plain ole 1' Pine board. any Hardware store sells this stuff, 1x2,1x3,1x4, etc....I think we paid .98 for 1x2, $1.49 for 1x3 and 3.12 for 1x4Moderately Stupid Question: What is the material used to make the front slats? It says that the sides are MDF, but doesn't talk about the sides...
Yes they do. It is just a furring strip to give you a spot to nail the slat in and keep it all symmetricalDo the 1 x2 s in the corners go all the way down the trap?
The corner traps, and the front/rear bass traps would be for your lows and yes, all the units should go floor to ceiling if you can do that.Which of these traps will be effective in the sub lows, under 150 Hz?
Should the corner and side traps go from floor to ceiling?
You could build them as such. The height of them being fixed is not an issue, just the angle and depth. so building two units and stacking will be fine. It will give you the coverage (height wise) that you need.If so, can I make them half the size for ease of build and stack them?
Remember they told you with the Auralex to make sure you had coverage at ear level in mix position, same deal with these, except you are breaking up the parallel walls, something the Auralex does not do, it only covers the wall and absorbs sound, but it never stops the Standing waves. or deflects them I should say.
These give you an angled reflective surface to "direct" the energy to the back of the room away from your ears while providing some mid absoprtion without deadening the room.
I am extremely pleased with the results, I can hear the midrange prperly now for the 1st time in years of mixing.
Elaborate a little, how is the door positioned??? I assume it was in that small area on the right wall, are you saying it is on the rear wall of that cove?I have my door in the back right, what should I do about that (I can't trap that back corner cave). Ok, thats it for now.
Bryan Giles
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I guess I should add this too. The bottom in my room is 100 times better than it was before. it is EVEN throughout the room from 40hz to 250. SO no dips and confusion, what I hear is what I got.
I have had to retrain my ears for the difference.
And the mids as I stated above are finally clear and audible. The top end is pristine, not smeared, so I can really hear what my verbs are doing. it has made me 100 times more meticulous in my mixing cuz I can truly hear what is reallly going on.
Bryan Giles
As far as where to buy, where are you located???? I am here in Michigan.
I have had to retrain my ears for the difference.
And the mids as I stated above are finally clear and audible. The top end is pristine, not smeared, so I can really hear what my verbs are doing. it has made me 100 times more meticulous in my mixing cuz I can truly hear what is reallly going on.
Bryan Giles
As far as where to buy, where are you located???? I am here in Michigan.