HVAC - What to use? Is DIY an option?
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I did already... Perhaps you couldn't find my dainty little 40-page thread.
This is the point in my thread (August 21, 2005) where I finalized my plan, including ventilation. I got my permit about a week later.
--Keith
This is the point in my thread (August 21, 2005) where I finalized my plan, including ventilation. I got my permit about a week later.
--Keith
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What??? You actually skipped pages in my 40-page (and growing) thread and only skimmed it eight times?...
Hey man, it only takes a day or two to read through it -- what's your excuse?
The worst part of it is that the planning stages I went through were hardly linear -- I bounced around quite a bit on a number of things, so it is understandably hard to follow. But, I guess that's good, because it proves a point how important good planning is on projects like these.
Hey man, it only takes a day or two to read through it -- what's your excuse?
The worst part of it is that the planning stages I went through were hardly linear -- I bounced around quite a bit on a number of things, so it is understandably hard to follow. But, I guess that's good, because it proves a point how important good planning is on projects like these.
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This is one of the most inexpensive units I've found and I've searched for single room units with no luck.derekdun101 wrote:How much would one of these hrv units cost that only needs to feed one room @ 192 sq.ft.?
http://www.iaqsource.com/index.php?modu ... +exchanger
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I admit that I haven't done any illustrations of the silencer for my project yet... It's an "I'll cross that bridge when I get to it" situation. What I plan to do is basically add some timber to the walls and ceiling to create a sort of soffit with walls that are about as thick and heavy as the walls and ceiling it's attached to.
I'm debating whether or not I will "finish" it like a ceiling and wall, or maybe I'll use screws and rubber seals on at least one of the surfaces so that I can open it up and service it in a way... Since the inside will be lined with insulation, I figure there might be a benefit to being able to access them every few years for a good cleaning...
I'm debating whether or not I will "finish" it like a ceiling and wall, or maybe I'll use screws and rubber seals on at least one of the surfaces so that I can open it up and service it in a way... Since the inside will be lined with insulation, I figure there might be a benefit to being able to access them every few years for a good cleaning...
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This is a most interesting thread. I just found this website tonight and have searched everywhere for ideas on converting a single zone mini split to heat/cool more than one room. Glad I found some good info. I do not however own a mini split system yet but do have a decent size window unit air conditioner and I'm considering the "chiller room" approach after reading all this. I thought the idea for the tuned traps was good and reminds me of a time I constructed a "vent box" for a small 4x4x8 vocal booth and it worked really well to keep air flow whisper quiet. Here's a pic of the ventbox (excuse my poor artwork.) When I made the ventbox I was shooting in the dark for dimensions and even internal design as I was trying to mimick the vent box design on many commercialy made whisper booths that you see in the classified ads of recording magazines. I don't see why this wouldn't work for the chiller room /pipe system. I don't remember the exact dimensions but I built the vent box out of particle board(sides) and used 2x4 pieces as the top and bottom and internal spacers. On the spacers I mounted egg crate foam and cut two holes for pvc pipes to be inserted. I used clear silicon to seal it all up and used a laundry dryer exhaust hose with duck tape to connect from my circulating fan to the vent box.
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Welcome to the forum, Ressurrector, and I'm glad you're benefitting from all the wealth of information here.
Yes, your illustration pretty much captures the plan I have for my big beefy silencers. They'll be about 8 feet long, and the other dimensions will be 1 1/2 feet and 2 feet (inside they'll be 2 feet wide and 1 1/2 feet tall, whereas they'll be the opposite outside the room -- 1 1/2 feet wide and 2 feet tall, since I'll have more headroom to spare there).
I'm thinking of constructing mine with one of the panels being attached with screws or bolts or something, so that I can access the entire silencer now and then for the purpose of cleaning and/or refurbishing. I would imagine that with all those turns, especially lined with insulation or foam, there's bound to be a lot of dust build-up, in spite of any attempts to filter that stuff out.
--Keith
Yes, your illustration pretty much captures the plan I have for my big beefy silencers. They'll be about 8 feet long, and the other dimensions will be 1 1/2 feet and 2 feet (inside they'll be 2 feet wide and 1 1/2 feet tall, whereas they'll be the opposite outside the room -- 1 1/2 feet wide and 2 feet tall, since I'll have more headroom to spare there).
I'm thinking of constructing mine with one of the panels being attached with screws or bolts or something, so that I can access the entire silencer now and then for the purpose of cleaning and/or refurbishing. I would imagine that with all those turns, especially lined with insulation or foam, there's bound to be a lot of dust build-up, in spite of any attempts to filter that stuff out.
--Keith
"Converting a garage into living space requires a city permit . . . homeowners insurance won't cover a structure that's been changed without a building permit . . ." --Sacramento Bee, May 27, 2006
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I do plan on having the exhaust intake inside the room protected with a filter, and the heat exchanger I'll be using has a filter inside the core... But still, I'd like to be able to get into those silencers now and then. Another thing that has me a little concerned is the possibility of mildew or mold collecting on/in the insulation or foam, so again, being able to gain access to it would make remediation of such a thing far less daunting a prospect.
"Converting a garage into living space requires a city permit . . . homeowners insurance won't cover a structure that's been changed without a building permit . . ." --Sacramento Bee, May 27, 2006