Front or rear wall?

[opensky]

Dumb question... I mounted some acoustic treartment (bass traps) to my front wall and front corners. Currently my rear wall is bare. Would the traps (which also handle higher frequencies) be more efficient on the rear wall rather than the front wall?

Also, if I take a 2'x4' 1/8" thick piece of plywood. Attach a sheet of 703 to it and cover the whole thing with burlap. Attach a small square box to the plywood so it can be mounted to a wall with an air gap. Would this provide any type of bass trapping or anything? I have 1 piece left and am rying to find something to do with it. It's not actually 703 and the density is 2.4 lbf/ft3.

Thanks everyone...

Rob

[John Sayers]

try setting up your speakers so the front wall is now the rear wall and compare the difference

chees
john

[opensky]

try setting up your speakers so the front wall is now the rear wall and compare the difference

chees
john

I'll give it a whirl, but I don't think there quite enough room for me to stand on the other side comfortably

[opensky]

try setting up your speakers so the front wall is now the rear wall and compare the difference

chees
john

Is there a more scientific approach? I mean, the options are 2 bass traps on the front wall and auralex wedgies on the rear or vice versa.

Thanks,

Rob

[knightfly]

Can you be more specific about what you're calling "bass traps"? There's usually quite a bit of confusion on this. Thanks... Steve

[opensky]

Can you be more specific about what you're calling "bass traps"? There's usually quite a bit of confusion on this. Thanks... Steve

4" thick 2'x'4' frame with 2 2" sheets of 703 insulation, covered in burlap and hung 4" away from the walls (or hung in the corners).

Rob

[knightfly]

OK, placing those in ALL your corners floor to ceiling would be a good start; in most rooms, filling the entire corners with fiberglass or rockwool with around 36" front face does a good job of smoothing out most modes (helps if the room isn't a CUBE though) - what you describe would be a good first reflection absorber (side walls, then 3-4 of them as "clouds" -

Generally, you want something like that BEHIND free-standing speakers to help boundary interference (like modes, only dependent on speaker/head location with regard to the closer walls) - deep corner treatments smooth out the room itself - "clouds" take care of first reflection points on ceiling, as well as control flutter. The entire rear wall of rooms with less than about 10 feet of space between your head and the rear wall, should be deep trapped in most cases.

Your plywood (glued to insulation the way you described it) won't do any more than if the insulation were against the wall though; for standing off to work, the stuff needs to have no hard backing til it sees the wall itself - this extends the low end by making the 1/4 wavelength distance from front of absorber to hard boundary LONGER, hence lower frequency... Steve