I read with dread the other guy's post about his acoustic sealant mess. I'm about to start using some sealant and would like to know what all of you have used successfully and where it can be purchased. Convince me not to just use standard caulk.
Some considerations:
-Clean-up
- getting all over everything-
- smell
- actual acoustic usefulness
- ability to fill voids without dripping/falling out
- anything I've missed?
Acoustic Sealant mess-how do I avoid
-
- Posts: 8
- Joined: Wed Jan 12, 2005 2:30 pm
- Location: Cedar Rapids,Iowa
-
- Senior Member
- Posts: 1464
- Joined: Wed Oct 08, 2003 1:48 am
- Location: Central Village CT
- Contact:
Re: Acoustic Sealant mess-how do I avoid
Well you can use anything you want - but you will not necessarily gain all of the benefit of the "floppy caulk".Finally wrote:I read with dread the other guy's post about his acoustic sealant mess. I'm about to start using some sealant and would like to know what all of you have used successfully and where it can be purchased. Convince me not to just use standard caulk.
Read some of the pointers in the other thread - backer rod is important:
http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=3104
[/quote] Some considerations:
1 -Clean-up
2 - getting all over everything-
3 - smell
4 - actual acoustic usefulness
5 - ability to fill voids without dripping/falling out
6 - anything I've missed?[/quote]
1. Clean up with the material reccomended by the manufacturer. No problems.
2. Well this is a function of just how carefull you are......... if you are less experienced - then masking tape at exactly where you want the edge of the caulk joint helps a lot - put the tape down on both surfaces - caulk, tool the joint - remove the tape carefully - and voila..... a perfect joint.
3. Odors will typically go away within a few days to a few weeks (depending on manufacturer and indoor humidity levels) but it's important (for this to happen) that you have plenty of fresh air circulating in the space.
4. Actual usefullnes is the maximum acoutic isolation value of any caulk on the market - as the caulks become harder they loos efectiveness - this is one of the reasons this caulk is designed to never really dry out and harden.
Only sika-flex caulk is something I would consider really comparable for years to come - and it is the messiest caulk I have ever worked with........
5. If you use the proper backer rod and a small joint (1/4" is pretty much perfect) this is not an issue.
6. Nope - you seemed to cover it all pretty much.
Rod
Ignore the man behind the curtain........
-
- Posts: 77
- Joined: Tue Aug 31, 2004 6:43 am
- Location: Los Angeles
- Contact:
If you buy the USG stuff (I get it shipped from whitecapdirect.com) it doesn't smell at all and it is much easier to clean up than the black sticky stuff in the other thread. I just wash it off with water before it sets. It does actually dry out a bit, but it still remains pliable and doesn't seem to pull away from edges or anything.
It's light gray/white in color.
It's light gray/white in color.
Geoff
-
- Posts: 166
- Joined: Mon Oct 06, 2003 3:05 pm
- Location: Asheville, NC
- Contact:
-
- Moderator
- Posts: 1771
- Joined: Thu Sep 18, 2003 3:06 am
- Location: Music City
- Contact:
There's a large thread ( http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2045 ) on this topic, but I've used Grabber, OSI, Tite Bond, and Boss acoustical sealants. The Grabber, OSI & Boss are extremely easy cleanup. Only need water, or rub your hands together, and it peels off. The TiteBond has a little oil base to it, and is a little messier.
But they all work about the same.
But they all work about the same.