)Here's your drawing for those without Word on their machines, sorry I'm needing to bail for now - I'll get back to you probably late tonight... Steve
5.1 Postproduction in Garage
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knightfly
- Senior Member
- Posts: 6976
- Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2003 11:11 am
- Location: West Coast, USA
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lowdbrent
- Posts: 88
- Joined: Thu Jun 12, 2003 4:32 pm
If you talk to a good wood floor contractor, you will find that the US guys do not recommend it as a subfloor. Floors may have moisture, and the sandwhich does not hold up over time. You should never fasten wood flooring to it directly either.giles117 wrote:Density of the material. OSB is different. I prefer and have been recommended particle board for the past 6 years. who knows, maybe my sources were mistaken, maybe it doesn't matter. I just stick to what I have found works well.
OSB might work just fine. I can't speak on it because i have never used it. That is why I said "I would use"
Unless someone gives me convincing evidence of the similarity between the products, I will stay with what works best for me. This is the 4th floor I have floated and I have learned from the mistakes I made hence my reason for stating what I have stated.
(Not irritated just being frank Carl.)
While typing this post I did tons of research and I have been unable to find any information regarding the Density of the flooring material. If someone can find it let me know but for now I will keep using Particle board.
Dtess mentioned 1-1/8" OSB. In looking at his design he is showing one layer. But that is not recommened. 2 flooring layers is recommended.
P.board is rated at 45lbs / cubic foot
Steve may have information I have not read so I will leave that open for argument. Not too mention Particle board costs $8.00 a sheet here in Michigan.
Bryan Giles
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dtess
- Posts: 50
- Joined: Thu Oct 30, 2003 2:47 am
- Location: Denver, CO
Steve,
FYI the door into the house is out. There are 2 doors with a air gap between them from the control room to vocal booth. Also 2 doors with air gap, between vocal booth and drum room. A window has been added between the vocal booth and control room. Yeah those are the only changes since I started
Dave
FYI the door into the house is out. There are 2 doors with a air gap between them from the control room to vocal booth. Also 2 doors with air gap, between vocal booth and drum room. A window has been added between the vocal booth and control room. Yeah those are the only changes since I started
Dave
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dtess
- Posts: 50
- Joined: Thu Oct 30, 2003 2:47 am
- Location: Denver, CO
Anybody have any thoughts on bass trap type, size and location? The corner behind the mix position will have a trap but not really sure how big to make it. I was thinking broadband absorbers on each side of the window and clouds over the mix position?
Clouds in the drum room with a bass trap/broadband absorber. On the wall, some hinged units that can open with absorbtive material. Thoughts from the forum with smaller drum rooms and treatment?
By the way floor was done with 2 layers of 3/4 ply and it worked out great.
Thanks,
Dave
Clouds in the drum room with a bass trap/broadband absorber. On the wall, some hinged units that can open with absorbtive material. Thoughts from the forum with smaller drum rooms and treatment?
By the way floor was done with 2 layers of 3/4 ply and it worked out great.
Thanks,
Dave
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knightfly
- Senior Member
- Posts: 6976
- Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2003 11:11 am
- Location: West Coast, USA
Dave, still short for time but I'll see what I can do, sorry for the wait -
First, if you'll be doing surround your surround speakers will be almost too close and still stay on your circle - one would go right next to the door hinge (top center of dwg) and the other opposite, to be around 110 degrees - 120 would put them into the wall from the look of it. Another option might be a quality stereo delay so they could be a bit closer to you and still be same arrival time as the fronts. This would need to be sub-millisecond adjustable, I've not done research on what's available yet.
Reason for those comments has to do with the rear trap - it should be as deep as you possibly can make it, and "Newell-ized" - what I would term "progressive impedance", or in other words softer stuff near the face graduating to heavier absorbents (up to maybe 8 pcf) with hangers at the innermost part - I'll try to scale your room for CAD so I can draw an example, but this may take about a week or so the way things are at present.
Another reason for max depth is the increased width that makes - 90 degree corners fire whatever comes in right back out as a parallel return, so you do NOT want that rear corner empty.
Ceiling/wall corners are also fair game for traps, but you may want to wait til you see what the room sounds like - it's next to impossible to calculate these things so ETF after the basics would make more sense; then you could design whatever additional treatment is necessary once you know what the room's doing... Steve
First, if you'll be doing surround your surround speakers will be almost too close and still stay on your circle - one would go right next to the door hinge (top center of dwg) and the other opposite, to be around 110 degrees - 120 would put them into the wall from the look of it. Another option might be a quality stereo delay so they could be a bit closer to you and still be same arrival time as the fronts. This would need to be sub-millisecond adjustable, I've not done research on what's available yet.
Reason for those comments has to do with the rear trap - it should be as deep as you possibly can make it, and "Newell-ized" - what I would term "progressive impedance", or in other words softer stuff near the face graduating to heavier absorbents (up to maybe 8 pcf) with hangers at the innermost part - I'll try to scale your room for CAD so I can draw an example, but this may take about a week or so the way things are at present.
Another reason for max depth is the increased width that makes - 90 degree corners fire whatever comes in right back out as a parallel return, so you do NOT want that rear corner empty.
Ceiling/wall corners are also fair game for traps, but you may want to wait til you see what the room sounds like - it's next to impossible to calculate these things so ETF after the basics would make more sense; then you could design whatever additional treatment is necessary once you know what the room's doing... Steve
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dtess
- Posts: 50
- Joined: Thu Oct 30, 2003 2:47 am
- Location: Denver, CO
Steve,
Again, thank you and the forum for all the help and knowledge.
If I recall correctly the circle is a 7ft. diameter. I know the surround placement isn't ideal. The plan is to put them on stands and move them out of the way when they are not in use. I'm going to position the surrounds and listen to see which placement will work better 110 or 120 degrees and as you suggest start treating the room as necessary.
Yeah that corner looks like trouble. The thought was to build a big corner trap but thought it would be best seek some advice before diving in. Glad I did!
Thanks,
Dave
Again, thank you and the forum for all the help and knowledge.
If I recall correctly the circle is a 7ft. diameter. I know the surround placement isn't ideal. The plan is to put them on stands and move them out of the way when they are not in use. I'm going to position the surrounds and listen to see which placement will work better 110 or 120 degrees and as you suggest start treating the room as necessary.
Yeah that corner looks like trouble. The thought was to build a big corner trap but thought it would be best seek some advice before diving in. Glad I did!
Thanks,
Dave
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lowdbrent
- Posts: 88
- Joined: Thu Jun 12, 2003 4:32 pm
Sorry.knightfly wrote:Dave, sounds like a better idea overall on the changes -
brent, what is "it"? OSB, particle board, ??!? Steve
OSB is strand board, chip board, etc. People in this neck of the woods use it as a plywood alternative when they can. Particle board...I should have said MDF. Same thing really, but MDF has the smooth laminate finish on both sides, particle board does not.