Suspending SAFB in gobos?

How thick should my walls be, should I float my floors (and if so, how), why is two leaf mass-air-mass design important, etc.

Moderators: Aaronw, sharward

natpub
Posts: 2
Joined: Tue Nov 02, 2004 4:45 pm
Location: Austin, Texas, USA

Suspending SAFB in gobos?

Post by natpub »

I found a source for Thermafiber SAFB in 2x4' sheets of 3" thickness. I was going to do a modified version of John's gobo design, but I come to find that SAFB is not semi-rigid like 703, but more like regular insulation.

What would be a proper way to suspend the SAFB inside the gobo so it isn't flopping all over the place inside?

Also, what suggestions might ya'll have on how to cover the front of the panels?

So far, finding 703 in the Austin area has been a no go, but the specs on the SAFB look excellent in comparrison when using 4". If I have to, I will double up on the 3" for total 6" density (!) on the dead side of the gobos, then use 3" on the livlier sides.

Thanks! :D
Kurt Thompson
Vibrational Arts, Inc.
Sonic Sorcery Studios
Austin, TX.
knightfly
Senior Member
Posts: 6976
Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2003 11:11 am
Location: West Coast, USA

Post by knightfly »

Have you tried these guys for 703?

http://www.spi-co.com/servicecenterdire ... ?detail=65

Whether you use SAFB's or 703 or rockwool, you can mount impaling clips to the wood back that's between your hard and soft side - then just push the material onto the clips.

http://www.acousticalsurfaces.com/fabri ... ta.htm?d=4

Nearly any cloth that looks good can be used for a cover - if you're using a perimeter frame that will show, and you want the cloth to NOT cover the frame (nice wood, for example) you can add cleats to the inside edge of the frame all around, then rout a groove just inside the frame that will show, using a narrow router bit; then you can go to a hardware store and buy some of the rubber or vinyl beading that's used for installing screens in screen doors and windows, and get one of the roller tools used to install the screens; stretch the cloth over the frame, lay the beading into the routed groove, and roll it into place with the tool.

Check out Fig. E, here

http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/cda/article_pr ... NT,00.html

for an idea of what the spline tool looks like - if you can't find the spline material, you can also use small diameter vinyl or rubber tubing and just roll THAT into the groove you routed.

Once you get the spline material firmly rolled into the groove and the cloth is straight, you can carefully use a razor knife and trim the cloth around the outside of the routed groove, down next to the spline material that's holding the cloth into the groove.

Hope that helps... Steve
natpub
Posts: 2
Joined: Tue Nov 02, 2004 4:45 pm
Location: Austin, Texas, USA

Post by natpub »

Wow Steve! Thanks for the reply and all that info! I will follow up with that Austin company--they werent in the yellow pages for some reason. I'll post if they have a 703 supply goin :-)

Another question on fabric if I may--I was checkin out some burlap and found that it really sheds--ALOT--it puffs all this tiny dust all over the place---does anyone find that a problem?

Also, I gather one would not want to use satin or satin finish fabric, since it seems like a hard shiney fabric surface like that would be reflective? Am I off base on that?
Kurt Thompson
Vibrational Arts, Inc.
Sonic Sorcery Studios
Austin, TX.
knightfly
Senior Member
Posts: 6976
Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2003 11:11 am
Location: West Coast, USA

Post by knightfly »

The "shiny" thing would only be a problem at higher frequencies - you might like it brighter anyway.

On the burlap, you might try washing it a few times in hot soapy water, if it still sheds after drying I'd look for something else. One other option might be one of the fire retardant sprays, it might "fix" the "flakies" -

http://www.natfire.com/

HTH... Steve
Post Reply