Not familiar with the term "feather edge cladding" - is this something like lapped shakes or shingles? Can you post a link or picture?
From your description of wall intentions, you may be heading for a triple leaf situation that will hurt your isolation quite a bit. If your outer leaf can be sturdier, then all that insulation and air space can work FOR you, and you would only need one more multi-layer mass leaf to get quite good isolation (the wide air/insulation gap will help quite a bit)
Need the clarification on the first paragraph... Steve
New Garden Studio
-
- Posts: 41
- Joined: Mon May 17, 2004 11:55 am
- Location: UK
http://www.acesheds.co.uk/images/wpe16.jpg
I am thinking about getting weatherproof Plywood for the outside, which I will then paint. This is going to retain my acoustic integrity, however it's going to be incredibly expensive. INCREDIBLY expensive.
I am thinking about getting weatherproof Plywood for the outside, which I will then paint. This is going to retain my acoustic integrity, however it's going to be incredibly expensive. INCREDIBLY expensive.
-
- Senior Member
- Posts: 6976
- Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2003 11:11 am
- Location: West Coast, USA
OK, thanks for the link - that looks like what's called Lap Siding here in the US - is yours thicker at the lower edge and rabbeted to fit the top of the piece below it, or does it have a uniform thickness from one side of each board to the other side?
Do the ends of the individual boards look like the example on the left or the right, or is it something else entirely?
Also, when you refer to plywood siding as expensive, just how expensive do you mean? I'm just trying to get a feel for some possible options for you here - if wood products are that expensive, it's possible that masonry may be a better way to go... Steve
Do the ends of the individual boards look like the example on the left or the right, or is it something else entirely?
Also, when you refer to plywood siding as expensive, just how expensive do you mean? I'm just trying to get a feel for some possible options for you here - if wood products are that expensive, it's possible that masonry may be a better way to go... Steve
-
- Posts: 41
- Joined: Mon May 17, 2004 11:55 am
- Location: UK
It is like the stuff on the right.
Marine plywood is about £60 +V.A.T. (17.5%) for 25mm, and WBP (lower grade marine - I believe) is £43 for inch board.
There is also stirling board, which is a kind of chipboard (large lumps of wood held together with glue) and that's 11.20 for 12mm, but am worried it's significantly less dense.
I am going to need 43 sheets (125 m2), so Marine ply works out at £3000, and an inch of stirling board works out at £1100. Both were more than I was planning on spending on just the outside wood...
However if it has to be done, it has to be done.
Marine plywood is about £60 +V.A.T. (17.5%) for 25mm, and WBP (lower grade marine - I believe) is £43 for inch board.
There is also stirling board, which is a kind of chipboard (large lumps of wood held together with glue) and that's 11.20 for 12mm, but am worried it's significantly less dense.
I am going to need 43 sheets (125 m2), so Marine ply works out at £3000, and an inch of stirling board works out at £1100. Both were more than I was planning on spending on just the outside wood...
However if it has to be done, it has to be done.
-
- Senior Member
- Posts: 6976
- Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2003 11:11 am
- Location: West Coast, USA
At those prices, have you considered using sand-filled concrete block outer walls? You would come a lot closer to your goal of being able to play drums 24 hours a day by using filled block outer wall (stucco'd outside?) then 100mm space, then 90mm stud frame (all space filled with fiberglass insulation or mineral wool) and then your two layers of gypsum wallboard on the inside of the inner stud frame.
Any time you can increase either the mass or the distance between leaves, you win - and a masonry wall shouldn't come close to the cost of what you're describing, and DEFINITELY will outdo the wood for sound control... Steve
Any time you can increase either the mass or the distance between leaves, you win - and a masonry wall shouldn't come close to the cost of what you're describing, and DEFINITELY will outdo the wood for sound control... Steve
-
- Posts: 41
- Joined: Mon May 17, 2004 11:55 am
- Location: UK
-
- Senior Member
- Posts: 6976
- Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2003 11:11 am
- Location: West Coast, USA
OK, how about using your original siding, with a vapor barrier under - insulate, then put a layer of "greenboard", which is drywall intended for wet locations, then 3 more layers of regular drywall - this would be your outer leaf, which extra mass would help compensate for the flimsy siding trying to act as an extra leaf.
Then, move in a bit and frame up for your inner leaf, using full insulation fill between the two "real" leaves and a double layer of drywall on the inner stud frame.
You'd need to figure a way to continue this across the ceiling, so you wouldn't lose isolation - if that's doable, the cost of the drywall material should be less than the ridiculous prices everyone's getting for plywood these days - Paul Woodlock is a member here, and could tell you where in England he's shopping; it didn't sound to me like his prices were as high as some I've heard of... Steve
Then, move in a bit and frame up for your inner leaf, using full insulation fill between the two "real" leaves and a double layer of drywall on the inner stud frame.
You'd need to figure a way to continue this across the ceiling, so you wouldn't lose isolation - if that's doable, the cost of the drywall material should be less than the ridiculous prices everyone's getting for plywood these days - Paul Woodlock is a member here, and could tell you where in England he's shopping; it didn't sound to me like his prices were as high as some I've heard of... Steve