New Studio Construction!

[Matt G]

I see what your saying... Im thinking now of treating these walls more like this then...

[Matt G]

Question about ceilings:


Whats the best way to bring the ceiling and walls together. Build ceiling first then bring up the wall to meet and stitch in? Or build the walls first and then build the ceiling to meet the wall? Pics below...


Also Finished my wall MSM design and studying up to build the HVAC System. The whole HVAC construction is terrifying me LOL

[Paulus87]

Question about ceilings:


Whats the best way to bring the ceiling and walls together. Build ceiling first then bring up the wall to meet and stitch in? Or build the walls first and then build the ceiling to meet the wall? Pics below...


Also Finished my wall MSM design and studying up to build the HVAC System. The whole HVAC construction is terrifying me LOL

I'm sorry if I've missed some detail from earlier on in your thread, but assuming you're building a true, decoupled MSM assembly then how would you build the ceiling first without it falling down?

Usually the wall frames would go up and the ceiling joists are supported by the wall frames.

Paul

[Matt G]

Hi Paul! I have 2x6 Joist 16”oc but I haven’t drawn them in yet on SketchUp Suspending the Ceiling from Joists using RCIS-1 clips

[Paulus87]

Hi Paul! I have 2x6 Joist 16”oc but I haven’t drawn them in yet on SketchUp Suspending the Ceiling from Joists using RCIS-1 clips

Ah I see. Well in that case I'm not sure it's going to make much difference.

It's a shame you are going such a route, though. Is it because of ceiling height constraints?

Paul

[Matt G]

Im going off this design from Rod Gervais book...

[Gregwor]

The drywall can be done either way but just because, I would put the first layer up on the ceiling first, then the first layer on the walls, then the second layer on the ceiling, then the second layer on the walls. So, like your example #2. But remember to leave a gap to apply caulk to keep the ceiling and wall sheathing decoupled.

Greg

[Matt G]

In my ceiling, Is there any reason why I shouldn't attach the outer drywall mass (in between the joist) with drywall screws? Im going off the model from the Rod Gervais book (pic below)

It says to hold in the drywall with finish nails then pack with backing rod and acoustic caulk which I understand. But is the 1x3 ledger board there to hold it all in for safety? Or for isolation purposes?



Another question about my ceiling. With the size of my room and the fact that above me is the living room. Am I in danger of adding too much weight with the double 5/8 in-between joist then the double 5/8 suspended ceiling? Like the whole thing crashing down on me

Could I do just one layer of 5/8 drywall in between joist and then a double 5/8 suspended ceiling and still get effective isolation? Any opinions or info on similar builds would be greatly appreciated

[Paulus87]

In my ceiling, Is there any reason why I shouldn't attach the outer drywall mass (in between the joist) with drywall screws? Im going off the model from the Rod Gervais book (pic below)

It says to hold in the drywall with finish nails then pack with backing rod and acoustic caulk which I understand. But is the 1x3 ledger board there to hold it all in for safety? Or for isolation purposes?



Another question about my ceiling. With the size of my room and the fact that above me is the living room. Am I in danger of adding too much weight with the double 5/8 in-between joist then the double 5/8 suspended ceiling? Like the whole thing crashing down on me

Could I do just one layer of 5/8 drywall in between joist and then a double 5/8 suspended ceiling and still get effective isolation? Any opinions or info on similar builds would be greatly appreciated

Hi,

I just read through your whole thread, and again I'll ask you: Why are you going the suspended ceiling on clips route?

Since you are building inner stud walls, why not just build your inner ceiling on top of the wall plate? You can run new joists across which fit in between your existing joists (just leave a gap so they do not touch of course) and you'll end up with 1. better isolation 2. a stronger structure with no risk of collapse 3. about the same amount of height as if you were to use clips.

Regarding beefing up your existing ceiling, the reason for using the cleats instead of just screwing it through is for a couple of reasons. Firstly it is stronger since the cleats are pressing the drywall up tight to the existing ceiling and then cleats are screwed into the timber joists. Secondly it means you do not have a hard connection in the field of the panels, which means you have a better membrane (i.e. lower frequency isolation) resonance. It also avoids accidentally putting a screw through a pipe or electric cable, or the floor above.

Paul

[Matt G]

Hi Paul and thank you!

So maybe 2x4s between the joist like in this image below?...

[Paulus87]

Hi Paul and thank you!

So maybe 2x4s between the joist like in this image below?...

It depends on your span... there are span calculators out there but might be best to get advice from a structural engineer, or at least someone who knows what you need in order to stay within your local building regulations.

Paul

[Matt G]

Wouldn’t an extra set of joist on the beams cause more weight? Or are you suggesting I build new separate beams isolated from the existing beams?

[Paulus87]

Wouldn’t an extra set of joist on the beams cause more weight? Or are you suggesting I build new separate beams isolated from the existing beams?

Having the beams there complicates things for sure. You’d ideally build it in a way so that the new joists are not resting on or touching the beams and the drywall would be underneath the beams not touching them. What is the height from floor to bottom of the beams?

The new ceiling would be attached to new joists that rest in top of your new inner walls framing, so there wouldn’t be any extra weight on the existing joists or beams. But it depends on the available height between the floor and those beams.

Paul

[Matt G]

Thank you Paul for your insight on this...

Greg, as far as isolation goes, do you think Id still be ok suspending my ceiling around the model from the Gervais book?

-MG

[Gregwor]

Greg, as far as isolation goes, do you think Id still be ok suspending my ceiling around the model from the Gervais book?

That system works alright, for sure. I have friends that have done it and they are happy with it. My biggest concern with it is the weight limits of the clips. It'd be hard to hang a lot of needed acoustic treatment devices off of it. I'm sure you can imagine how heavy a good cloud weighs!

Having the beams there complicates things for sure. You’d ideally build it in a way so that the new joists are not resting on or touching the beams and the drywall would be underneath the beams not touching them.

You'd probably want to add a few inches of MDF or OSB under the beam since you wouldn't have a big air gap there, but here's how I'd do it (this is from one place I designed with the same issue you're facing)

Around Beam From Top.png

Around Beam From Side.png

Around Beam From Bottom.jpg

You're essentially maintaining your visual ceiling height but "boxing in" the main beam, leaving a few inches of gap.

Greg