About ready to start construction - a few final questions

[smallstonefan]

Hi all,

Well, after months of reading articles and trolling the forums, I'm about ready to start construction of my home studio. I have a few questions (mostly related to budget). I'd like to detail what I'm considering doing here in hopes that someone will stop me if I'm making a mistake.

Keep in mind that the primary focus at this time is to allow me to play my guitar amp at night without bothering the family (our bedroom is above the studio). I have no plans to have a full band or even a drummer in there. I use Sonar and various synths (and I play computer games), but the amp will be the loadest thing in the studio. (an 18w Dr. Z Maz 18 if anyone is interested).

1. The room is approximately 11.5' x 11.5'. Building a room within a room is not an option.
2. Two of the walls are outside walls. One is block and the other is framed. Changing the outside of the other two walls is not an option (they are in finished rooms).
3. I plan to start by ripping out the existing drywall within the room.
4. For the walls, I intend to use a silicon caulk to caulk around the studs against the drywall that exists on the outside of the studs.
5. I plan to cut sheets of drywall to fit between the studs, and glue these to the existing drywall to add mass to the outside walls.
6. I next plan to put R11 between the studs (Auralex mineral fiber was considered, but too expensive for the budget).
7. *** I'm considering adding some random;y spaced blocking between the studs using 2x4s tipped upwards. Will this help?
8. Next comes resilient channels.
9. *** Next comes 1/5" drywall. I considered 5/8", but it is considerably more expensive that 1/2" at the moment. Does this matter? All of the seems will be glued together using a flexible glue.
10. Next comes another layer of 1/2" drywall, placing the seems in the opposite direction of the first layer. Again, all seems will be glued to make it as air-tight as possible. This layer will be finished.
11. The two doors will be swapped for solid-coor doors if necessary, but we're going to try and fill them with expandable foam and build a layer of MDF on one side. All appropriate gaps around doors and the window will be filled with expandable foam.

For the ceiling...
1. Glue/caulk all joists where they meet the sub-floor.
2. Glue 2 layers of 1/2" drywall up against the sub-floor. I'll probably be using 1x2 supports.
3. Add randomly spaced blocking of 2x4s between the joists.
4. Fill the cavity about half full with R11.
5. Next comes flexible channels.
6. Then a sheet of 1/2" drywall (all seems glued).
7. Then another sheet of 1/2" drywall (all seems glued).

We've also got one vent to consider in the ceiling, but I've got some ideas on that (love to hear any you have as well!).

I originally considered using Auralex Sheetblock between the two layers of drywall on both the walls and the ceiling, but that hurts the budget. Then again, my wife insists that I do it right because I'm not getting a chance to do it again!

Without the Sheetblock, it looks like we can do this for $5,000. (this includes quite a bit lighting and electrical work)

Any input or guidance you could provide would be most appreciated,

[Aaronw]

Hello James,

You mentioned the room in a room is out of the question. Let me ask this, the walls where you are removing the existing drywall, can you build a second framed wall? This way you'd have "outside wall...siding w/ drywall glued against it as you mentioned, the stud cavity filled w/ insulation, then another framed wall filled w/ insulation, and 2 layers of drywall on RC. This would give you a double framed wall, and great isolation from leaking outside or into the house.

For the budget your talking about, if you do most of the work yourself, you'll have no problem staying within it.

I'm pretty busy this morning, I'll try and ask you some other Q's later...

Aaron

[smallstonefan]

Thanks Aaron,

I considered doing just as you suggested, but I'd really rather not lose the additional space (if I can avoid it). I also have a floating laminate floor that I'd hate to have to tear up (not to mention the additional cost). Not sure about just putting the new framing on the laminate...

It's <possible>, but I'd like to avoid this route if I can still obtain good results.

[Aaronw]

Is your outside wall 2x4 or 2x6? I would definately consider putting in something like this for insulation... http://www.roxul.com/sw34142.asp

It's fairly reasonable as far as price and compared to the acoustical properties of it vs. regular insulation, you get more bang for your buck.

Are you putting 2 layers or 3 layers of drywall? What was this comment about glueing between layers?

I would suggest either 2 layers of 5/8" drywall. First layer vertical (parallel w/ studs) and the second layer horizontal (perpendicular to studs). Or if you were using 3 layers...5/8", 3/8", 1/2".

5/8" is more (at the moment). It's roughly around $8.00 +/- here in Nashville. If you can wait until fall, prices should be coming back down. Cross your fingers... 9 months ago, it was $5 and some change.

As far as your caulk, I would recommend using an "Acoustical Sealant". Most other caulks either dry hard or shrink over time. Causing an opening for flanking sound. Acoustical sealant is non-hardening and flexible and doesn't shrink. If you're having problems trying to find it, search for your local supply houses of drywall, insulation or steel framing supply places. Basically where the contractors go. There are several different brands to choose from...eg: Boss, Grabber, Tite Bond, etc.

For the cost of modifying the hollow core door...you can buy a new solid core door for probably cheaper, and less headaches. They're about $55 at home depot.

What is all the randomly spaced blocking for?

Drywall seams should be caulked, not glued.

Aaron

[z60611]

Hi Aaronw

I think you'll find that Roxul Safe n Sound has the same absorbtion coefficients as AFB (Acoustical Fire Batt), and is probably easier to locate (Home Depot here). The difference is that Safe n Sound is only available in 3", whereas AFB is available in different thicknesses.

[Aaronw]

I haven't seen the Safe n Sound product. Nor have I seen it in H.D. here. Most everyone around here just carries fiberglass products...the 'ole Pink Pather stuff...

You've probably got it there since Roxul is located there in Ontario.

As far as 3", that's not a big deal for 2x4 framing. That's what I'm using. 3" AFB. Or in some cases two pieces of 1 1/2" (due to running them out of stock of 3").

AW

[smallstonefan]

Is your outside wall 2x4 or 2x6? I would definately consider putting in something like this for insulation... http://www.roxul.com/sw34142.asp

2x4. I'll have to look into that insulation, thanks!

Are you putting 2 layers or 3 layers of drywall? What was this comment about glueing between layers?

The current plan is for two layers. We are considering glueing the outer layer to the inner layer to avoid having any fasters from the outside surface. My friend who is helping owns a company that does everything from full basement remodels to faux painting. He tells me the drywall on the walls will hold with a special adhesive.

I would suggest either 2 layers of 5/8" drywall. First layer vertical (parallel w/ studs) and the second layer horizontal (perpendicular to studs). Or if you were using 3 layers...5/8", 3/8", 1/2".

This is how we are planning on doing it with the two 1/2" layers. I'll have to compare the cost to 5/8", but as you pointed out, it's a big difference.

5/8" is more (at the moment). It's roughly around $8.00 +/- here in Nashville. If you can wait until fall, prices should be coming back down. Cross your fingers... 9 months ago, it was $5 and some change.

At this point, my friend is fitting me in his schedule, so we'll need to start in about a week so waiting for the price to drop isn't feasible.

As far as your caulk, I would recommend using an "Acoustical Sealant". Most other caulks either dry hard or shrink over time. Causing an opening for flanking sound. Acoustical sealant is non-hardening and flexible and doesn't shrink. If you're having problems trying to find it, search for your local supply houses of drywall, insulation or steel framing supply places. Basically where the contractors go. There are several different brands to choose from...eg: Boss, Grabber, Tite Bond, etc.

Thanks for the tip. I've been told that a good caulk with 30% or so silicon will work just fine. Do you find this not to be the case?

For the cost of modifying the hollow core door...you can buy a new solid core door for probably cheaper, and less headaches. They're about $55 at home depot.

Hmmm, I was under the impression they were closer to $200 - I need to look into this more, thanks!

What is all the randomly spaced blocking for?

I thought I read an article that recommended this (Accoustics 101 maybe?) It's a cheap and easy thing to do if it helps...

Drywall seams should be caulked, not glued.

Sorry, I explained that part wrong. Yes, the plan is to use caulk on all of the seems.

Do you have an opinion on Auralex SheetBlock? That stuff is SO expensive...

Thanks for all of your input - I really do appreciate it! [/quote]

[Aaronw]

The current plan is for two layers. We are considering glueing the outer layer to the inner layer to avoid having any fasters from the outside surface. My friend who is helping owns a company that does everything from full basement remodels to faux painting. He tells me the drywall on the walls will hold with a special adhesive.

Read the Sticky "Complete Section" about the walls. Steve originally had said that was ok, but has learned you don't want to glue the 2 layers together. You want each layer to act independently...read the articles from steve, it'll explain it better than I can.

This is how we are planning on doing it with the two 1/2" layers. I'll have to compare the cost to 5/8", but as you pointed out, it's a big difference.

It's worth the extra buck or two. I would at least have 1 layer 5/8". but 2 layers 5/8" is recommended from everyone I've spoken w/ here on the forum.

Thanks for the tip. I've been told that a good caulk with 30% or so silicon will work just fine. Do you find this not to be the case?

Is that what she said... . Just kiddin' . I can't confirm nor deny. I don't know exactly, but if you do a search here on the forum about acoustic sealant/caulk you'll find this topic debated by several people. Worth checking into...

Hmmm, I was under the impression they were closer to $200 - I need to look into this more, thanks!

If all you need is the door and no frame, they're only about $55.00 +/-. You can buy just the door. If you need to reframe, you can also buy them for about another $30 bucks or so. Sealing...that's a whole other topic.

I thought I read an article that recommended this (Accoustics 101 maybe?) It's a cheap and easy thing to do if it helps...

help what?

Do you have an opinion on Auralex SheetBlock? That stuff is SO expensive...

I don't think it's probably worth it. At least not in my case. I double walled everything so far anyway. It's just a matter of how and where you place the materials, will make a large difference in transmission loss you have.

Aaron

[smallstonefan]

Thanks Aaron - I'll go and read those articles you recommend...