I'm not sure which gaps you are referring to. You mean the ones between the floorboards above? You could seal all of those individually with acoustic caulk, yes, but the amount of work and cost of sealant would be pretty high. Unless you need very high levels of isolation, it would probably be far easier to just use the normal "beef up between the joists" method, using a couple of layers of drywall, cleats, and caulk around the edges.
No, i mean the gap between the 2 2x4 and the wall, as showed in the picture called stud detail 1.
From what I can see in the photos, you only have the outer leaf in place at the moment, so any connections between different parts of that are fine. You have not yet built any of your inner-leaf, so there isn't any flanking. Of course, when you DO build the inner-leaf, that's when you need to take great care to ensure that no part of the inner leaf touches the outer leaf: they must remain absolutely separate. The important thing is to make sure that your outer-leaf is a complete "envelope", that fully surrounds the future inner-leaf. To do that, you will very likely need to complete the missing parts, and seal them well.
Maybe i haven't nailed the terminology yet, sorry for that. What i am trying to ask is: Is it a problem that the beam and its supporting studs are touching the outer leaf..?
Why do you need to do that? Is there something wrong with the door frame that is already there? If so, then yes, it would be better to remove it and put in a good one.
If you look at the sketch up file, you can clearly see that the stud supporting the beam, is nailed to the the existing door frame. So, to eventually remove it, i need to fasten the support beams in some other manner. The way i see it, it is to the wall or to the floor, maybe both. Then, i need to understand if the door frame needs to be as thick as the outer and inner leaf combined. Or if i can just have it as thick as the inner leaf. Eventually, if i can have a superdoor attached onto the inner leaf opening inwards, towards the room. This would help me a great deal, because out in the basement hallway, the stairway is directly outside the door. Which means that, a door opening outwards, just would'nt fit.
It's not that it "could represent" a leaf: rather, it undoubtedly IS a leaf! It is your outer leaf, regardless of whether or not it is in tact. If it is cracked, broken, or has holes through it, that does not change the fact that it is a leaf. If the holes are very large then it might not be 100% effective as a leaf, but it is still a leaf: it is the massive, rigid, solid, hard envelope that encloses your studio, so it is the outer-leaf. The holes, gaps and cracks will need to be filled and sealed to make it highly effective.
Yes, i understand this now.
Maybe he doesn't understand the huge amount of mass that you will be adding to the structure.... Are you sure you explained that to him clearly?
Well, i explained to him, that there will be a total of 4 layers of drywall, insulation, Norwegian version of resilient channels, studs, and the soffit box around the beam... plus additional celling treatment. Have i missed something crucial?
2 layers of drywall carefully caulked with insane amounts of backer rods and acoustic caulk. Temporarily held in place by 4d finish nails and then held in place by som 1 x 3 ledger boards. Used rockwool for insulation since it's cheaper than standard fiberglass insulation here.
