New Project Studio in the Czech Countryside

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Mojo Jr
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New Project Studio in the Czech Countryside

Post by Mojo Jr »

Dear members,

VJ here.

This will be my first major post to the forum, and let me start by saying how much joy I’ve found reading through the pages of this site. As a musician and a songwriter (and closet knob-tweaker), I’m always thrilled to discover new and better ways to help the creative flow. You, and I suppose now “we,” will never know how much of a difference this forum makes, and just how much beauty it brings into the world in terms of helping creatives create higher levels of their art.

Thank you all for taking the time to participate as you do. Hopefully I, too, can in some way lend a hand.

So… let me begin by sharing the very early stages of my latest studio project with you, and maybe have the opportunity to ask some questions.

General Project Information:

I’m an American singer/songwriter/recording artist with long-term residency in the Czech Republic. I’m in the process of setting up a project/songwriting/mixing studio in a cottage at the edge of a village, in the Czech countryside. I’ve attached photos and SketchUp layouts (with detailed dimensions) for your later review. I’ll be undertaking this project with my own two hands, so I’m looking forward to it, and I’m looking forward to sharing the progress with you all. Hopefully it will be an inspiration. I’m hoping to gather the information I need, and then begin and complete the build within 30-days. The budget for the project is flexible, and will conform as dictated by the eventual design parameters.

The cottage has a two-car garage, and over the garage is a loft space. The cottage is stone and block walls, finished with a lime render (as is common in this part of Europe), and roofed with a modern interlocking ceramic tile system. The only wood found in this building are the roof rafters and roof sheeting, the floor joists, and the finishes. All walls are stone or heavy block. The entire structure is built on a thick concrete slab. The roof of the garage (upon which the studio space sits) consists of spans of steel-reinforced concrete, which are hard-joined to the stone and block walls (see photos).

The cottage was thoroughly gutted and refurbished in the late 1990’s, and has been updated to the very high energy efficiency standards existing in Europe at that time. Everything is built to be energy efficient, so the building is very tight, with very good insulation and acoustic techniques throughout. The transmission of noise to the interior is very low, and the transmission of interior noise to the exterior (even when I crank up the speakers to 80db in the loft space in the middle of the dead of a quiet night), is barely a whisper outside. It is very low (“turn up the Eagles, the neighbors are listening” certainly doesn’t apply here). :) The nearest neighbors are not very near, and they all have some form of structural barrier between me and them, not to mention the fact that they are all inside stone houses with very good energy efficient closures.

The new studio space is clad with drywall, which is attached to the roofing joists via Resilient Channels. It has a cork floor (which seems to also have some sort of acoustic decoupling system in place). At each end of the space is a short bench running the entire width of the space. Each of these benches is enclosed. I have been told they contain insulation. I may already have some ready-made panel resonators there. 8) The front wall of the space is all thermal vinyl windows. The rear wall is thick stone, rendered in plaster.

The space is accessed through one door at the back of the space.

The space will be used mainly for recording my own albums (acoustic based, blues & gospel influenced folk-rock), my pre-productions for prepping studio sessions at larger studios, for songwriting collaborations, for small folk and folk-rock production of other combos, for film, television, theater music composition, and for mixing, including my own releases, artists I produce, and a downtempo groove project I collaborate on.

The studio will be based around a ProTools/Logic X rig consisting of a i7 Mac mini running Yosemite, a Univeral Audio Apollo interface, an array of AKG and Neumann mics, a V-Drum kit, and Mackie HR825 Mk II’s.

The footprint of the listening position will be very small, and weigh very little. These Czech homes are built to hold full sets of HUGE hardwood furniture pieces inherited from the “First Republic.”

The listening position will have a slant-top pine desk (the edge closest to me is a 12 degree slope down from the edge closest to the monitors) which holds nothing more than a wireless mac keyboard, a Wacom tablet and the accompanying stylus. (An occasional notebook or lead sheet as well).

The dimensions of the desk are 100cm x 36cm x 2cm for the top, held up by four 2cm x 4.5cm legs rising to ergonomic height. I have two flat screen monitors to choose from. One is a 42” Panasonic Viera, and the other is 32” Acer. Depending on where the design dictates the listening position to be, that will determine how much monitor space I need to give to the tiny writing in ProTools. The monitor will either fit into a recess between the monitors, or, if there isn’t enough space there, due to the height of the ceiling (see design brief below), it will be built into a low-profile stand which puts the top of the monitor at the same height as the desk, slanting back to make it easy to see from the listening position, and out of the path of the monitors.

At present, the two “panel radiators” which were heating the space originally (see the blank spot on the rear wall and the two white posts sticking up below the windows), have been removed due to the horrendous ringing/resonating problem they were introducing to the space whenever I hummed anything around an “A” flat. Heating will now be provided by an oil radiator in winter, and I am exploring different possibilities for air conditioning in the summer (will probably go with a split-mini vented to the front of the building. Not sure yet). Am open to suggestions.

Design Brief:

I am looking for ways to make this as minimally invasive as possible to the existing structure and finish of the space. I’d like to make everything removable later. Of greatest concern to me is the cork floor, so I’m definitely looking for ways to preserve that floor. When and if I move to a new location, any walls which are erected, will be coming down, and I’m trying not to leave nail/screw, or bolt holes in the cork floor. I am definitely open to creative and functional ways of avoiding this.

Any walls which are constructed, will be constructed using metal studs of the European standard configuration, which include acoustic isolation elements in their design. They are lightweight, and here in the Czech Republic, they are much less expensive than their wood counterpart.

The studio needn’t be a hermetically sealed space, since the noise levels here are very low (and the occasional passing farm tractor which finds its way onto my recordings will be my version of Buddy Holly’s “crickets.”) Oh yeah… and then there’s the air-raid siren test every first Wednesday at Noon, just in case the Nazi’s or Putin decide to pay us a visit.

The goal for the space is good, tight, control room acoustics. I already have a very quiet, but much smaller space at the other end of the attic, behind the studio space, which is perfect for live tracking of acoustic instruments and the V Drum kit (and I re-amp guitars and basses “in the box”), so the new space is definitely more of a control room/ mix room/ DI overdub room/ Sonwriting incubator.

What I’m hoping to achieve is a fairly quiet space with a very tight control on the low mids and lows, a sort of “inner room,” where I can mix with the knobs at “living room” volume, and trust that the mixes will translate, or a space where I can simply sit in relative quiet, and create, either alone, or with other artists I’m working with.

The initial design for the space had the listening position simply facing the wall of windows, and making the rear of the room as dead as possible by building a huge absorber back there (this may still be the recommended option). However, inspired by John’s designs, I’ve decided to try and “drop in” one of his “small studio” configurations sideways into the loft space, having the monitors positioned at one of the low side walls, and firing up the slanted ceiling toward an ever widening rear dead area (please review my attached SketchUp layout to see a rough mock-up of this idea). One thing I’ve learned from watching John’s designs, is to think outside the box. Positioning a control room sideways across an attic space is certainly thinking outside the box (for me anyway). I see this configuration really ticking all the boxes for my needs if it can be done.

So here are my initial questions:

1.) Based on my attached SketchUp layout with the “small studio” sitting laterally across the loft space, is this layout configuration an option.

2.) If so, is there a way to do it so that I preserve the cork floor? (Maybe I could overlay the cork with MDF over carpet padding and attach the new walls to it the MDF? Kind of create my own version of a “whisper room”)? Would that option create the dreaded “triple-leaf transmission loss” problem? Any other ideas for how to achieve this? I mentioned compression poles in a discussion I was having with Soundman2020. Maybe I could attach the wall to industrial-strength compression poles specially built for this purpose. Your thoughts?

3.) Since I’m not that concerned with dead-quiet isolation, can I build single stud walls which are drywall on the exterior, 4” of insulation inside, and slat walls toward the interior? (Along with hangers in rear traps, and slat walled hangers in the soffits.)

4.) Does the “small studio” configuration going sideways across the space, give me enough space to implement soffit mounting?

5.) Mackie HR824 Mk II’s — After several people here on the forum have flush/soffit mounted HR824 Mk II’s and have had time to live with it, what is the final verdict? I’d love to hear from Giles and others who have had success (or failure) with this setup (the “flash burn” I now suffer from, due to all the intensive reading of the forums here, is definitely worth the pain). :-)

6.) Finally, if the “small studio” sideways configuration is not a possibility given the dimensions of the space or other considerations, are there any recommendations for how to implement the same configuration running long-ways, either facing the wall of windows, or facing the entry door with some sort of entry door positioned between the monitors? Again, I’m open to any and all suggestions and comments. I’ve been told that firing the monitors toward the windows would actually help since glass absorbs low and low mid frequencies. Again… I’m open to all ideas.

Thank you for reading this rather long description. I have tried to give you all the information you’ve requested in the forum rules. Please ask for more if I’ve left anything out that you feel would be helpful to the brainstorming session.

I look forward to your replies, and I appreciate you taking the time with me on this new journey.

Na zdraví!

- VJ -
Belief is being certain of that which will most probably prove to be false. -Vinnie James
stevev
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Re: New Project Studio in the Czech Countryside

Post by stevev »

hey there VJ.
Mojo Jr wrote:I’m hoping to gather the information I need, and then begin and complete the build within 30-days.
I like your optimism and I sincerely wish you a lot of luck with that time frame :shock:
Mojo Jr wrote:The budget for the project is flexible, and will conform as dictated by the eventual design parameters.
Good news.
Mojo Jr wrote:The roof of the garage (upon which the studio space sits) consists of spans of steel-reinforced concrete, which are hard-joined to the stone and block walls (see photos).
Also good news.
Mojo Jr wrote:The goal for the space is good, tight, control room acoustics.
I'm not saying that it can't be done with this shaped room, but it does look to me like it will be difficult to get 'good' and 'tight' acoustic enviroment in a room that shape.
Mojo Jr wrote:What I’m hoping to achieve is a fairly quiet space with a very tight control on the low mids and lows
Again, I think the room is going to behave oddly given the shape of the roof.
Mojo Jr wrote:1.) Based on my attached SketchUp layout with the “small studio” sitting laterally across the loft space, is this layout configuration an option.
I think you'd be better firing the monitors along the long axis of the room and have the ceiling angles coming at you from the side. Firing across the room looks like it'll place your listening position close to the center of the room with the angled ceiling pushing the sound back at you from behind.
Mojo Jr wrote:2.) If so, is there a way to do it so that I preserve the cork floor? (Maybe I could overlay the cork with MDF over carpet padding and attach the new walls to it the MDF? Kind of create my own version of a “whisper room”)? Would that option create the dreaded “triple-leaf transmission loss” problem? Any other ideas for how to achieve this? I mentioned compression poles in a discussion I was having with Soundman2020. Maybe I could attach the wall to industrial-strength compression poles specially built for this purpose. Your thoughts?
Given that you've got a concrete floor underneath you and you say you don't need great amounts of TL anyway, perhaps building a floating floor on top of the cork could be an option. However, with the kind of weight you'll be putting on it I'm not sure you won't end up with marks on the cork floor where any timber is resting. Is pulling up, and storing the cork an option?
Mojo Jr wrote:3.) Since I’m not that concerned with dead-quiet isolation, can I build single stud walls which are drywall on the exterior, 4” of insulation inside, and slat walls toward the interior? (Along with hangers in rear traps, and slat walled hangers in the soffits.)
Yep, that's an inside out construction and gives you greatest flexibility for your acoustic treatment inside the room. You'll need to start working out exactly how much isolation you need in terms of db before you can say which method of construction will be best suited.
Mojo Jr wrote:5.) Mackie HR824 Mk II’s — After several people here on the forum have flush/soffit mounted HR824 Mk II’s and have had time to live with it, what is the final verdict? I’d love to hear from Giles and others who have had success (or failure) with this setup (the “flash burn” I now suffer from, due to all the intensive reading of the forums here, is definitely worth the pain)
not sure about the mackies, but i've flush mounted my KRK's and i'm plenty happy......apart from a few issues with the monitors themselves. (hopefully upgrading soon!!!!)
Mojo Jr wrote:6.) Finally, if the “small studio” sideways configuration is not a possibility given the dimensions of the space or other considerations, are there any recommendations for how to implement the same configuration running long-ways, either facing the wall of windows, or facing the entry door with some sort of entry door positioned between the monitors? Again, I’m open to any and all suggestions and comments. I’ve been told that firing the monitors toward the windows would actually help since glass absorbs low and low mid frequencies. Again… I’m open to all ideas.
Running longways basically looks the same as sideways as far as the design goes, but you get a lot more room behind you and your listening position won't be near the centre of the room. I'd be making the front of the room in front of the windows, and again, how you construct that depends on what sort of db isolation you need. I'm pretty sure that glass windows won't be absorbing any low frequencys, especially normal thickness window glass. They will help with isolation given that glass is quite dense, but that also means they have to be sealed properly and also be quite thick, which your ordinary windows are most likely not.
Mojo Jr wrote:Thank you for reading this rather long description. I have tried to give you all the information you’ve requested in the forum rules. Please ask for more if I’ve left anything out that you feel would be helpful to the brainstorming session.

I look forward to your replies, and I appreciate you taking the time with me on this new journey.
You've most likely saved yourself a lot of pain by posting up here before construction begins. very smart move :D With any luck Stuart or one of the other more experienced guys will be along soon with some more mathematical and scientific answers for you, but hopefully I've given you a bit of a start with what to expect.

all the best,

Steve
quick, cheap or good....pick any two.
Mojo Jr
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Re: New Project Studio in the Czech Countryside

Post by Mojo Jr »

*attachments* -
.. 1 SketchUp .skp file of the space under discussion,
.. 2 JPG images.
stevev wrote:You've most likely saved yourself a lot of pain by posting up here before construction begins. very smart move :D With any luck Stuart or one of the other more experienced guys will be along soon with some more mathematical and scientific answers for you, but hopefully I've given you a bit of a start with what to expect.
Hey Steve, thanks for the reply. It's nice to be among so many people who "get" the notion of "in a multitude of counsel there is wisdom." I'm looking forward to having others join in the discussion. Hopefully that will happen. It sure would be nice to have a few creative options from brains other than my own (which is quite limited when it comes to designing a studio). :?

Someone may come along and throw something into the mix that I hadn't even considered. I've seen that happen on this forum many, many times in the past.
stevev wrote:I think you'd be better firing the monitors along the long axis of the room and have the ceiling angles coming at you from the side. Firing across the room looks like it'll place your listening position close to the center of the room with the angled ceiling pushing the sound back at you from behind.
I had taken a look at that previously, and I guessed it would be a challenge sitting that close to the center of the room. Definitely not optimal. (Please have a look at the SketchUp graphics I've attached to this reply). It's pretty evident I'll have problems with the sideways configuration unless I do something with the ceiling, which is pretty low as it is. Here's where I need some serious creative input.

I can't remember where the post is, but I read a discussion between John and another forum member, where John suggested actually using a solid board to alter the geometry of the ceiling in a studio. I thought this was a brilliant idea, something I never would have considered, and something which makes total sense. I'm wondering if this can be applied in my case to completely circumvent the "middle of the room" scenario altogether and still end up with the "lateral" design.
stevev wrote:Given that you've got a concrete floor underneath you and you say you don't need great amounts of TL anyway, perhaps building a floating floor on top of the cork could be an option. However, with the kind of weight you'll be putting on it I'm not sure you won't end up with marks on the cork floor where any timber is resting. Is pulling up, and storing the cork an option?
It's good to hear that a floating floor is an option. Unfortunately, Steve, the type of cork floor it is, happens to be gloss finished and sealed. It's not like tiles which can be removed, even any space between the cork panels has been filled in with sealer and the finish is rather fine.

I think, if I can put something down underneath the "floating floor," there shouldn't be any problem with the overall weight. The weight will be distributed rather evenly throughout the space, so it should be fine. What I need to find is something which won't break down chemically over time and leave a stain or residue of some sort. I was using gel insoles under my monitors a while back and they left a nice stain on my stands. :x
stevev wrote:Running longways basically looks the same as sideways as far as the design goes, but you get a lot more room behind you and your listening position won't be near the centre of the room. I'd be making the front of the room in front of the windows, and again, how you construct that depends on what sort of db isolation you need. I'm pretty sure that glass windows won't be absorbing any low frequencys, especially normal thickness window glass. They will help with isolation given that glass is quite dense, but that also means they have to be sealed properly and also be quite thick, which your ordinary windows are most likely not.
Yeah, I've been told that glass windows absorb bass, in fact, I read a coefficient chart a while back in the early stages of my research where I read that "glass windows" had 0.35 at 125Hz. Not earth-shattering, but impressive. It's actually about 0.10 higher than 2" of OC 703.

The original design sketches had the configuration you mention, with the monitors near the windows. It's too bad I'm going to probably loose the inspiration of those windows. I imagine whatever I come up with the longways option, will obscure the windows.

Gonna throw another out there, which is inspired by your comments.

1.) When speaking of a floating floor, does the floor have to extend all the way out to the boundaries of the space? Or, can in be made to just fit the boundaries of the new walls? Whatever design I decide on, it'll probably not involve the entire area of the cork floor, so I'm wondering if the floating floor needs to. Your thoughts?

I'm going to see what I can sketch up in the meantime regarding your idea about using the "small studio" design running longways, with the soffits toward the windows. Not sure how I'm gonna make that work. Again, any comments are welcome.

Gratefully,

- VJ -
Belief is being certain of that which will most probably prove to be false. -Vinnie James
stevev
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Re: New Project Studio in the Czech Countryside

Post by stevev »

Mojo Jr wrote:The original design sketches had the configuration you mention, with the monitors near the windows. It's too bad I'm going to probably loose the inspiration of those windows. I imagine whatever I come up with the longways option, will obscure the windows.
In general, it seems that windows with nice views, and studios don't go together. As soon as you have a window that you want to look out of, you have a big hard reflective surface that has no option for acoustic treatment via the fact that you want to be able to look out of it. The only big hard reflective surface you want in a dtudio is the floor for the most part.

This is where it comes down to priority. If the view from the window is a main source for inspiration and creativty which you can't bear to lose, the keep it by all means. That will come at the price of control room isolation and tight acoustics. Pleasant scenery, or good acoustics......one or the other, but not both unfortunately :(
Mojo Jr wrote: 1.) When speaking of a floating floor, does the floor have to extend all the way out to the boundaries of the space? Or, can in be made to just fit the boundaries of the new walls? Whatever design I decide on, it'll probably not involve the entire area of the cork floor, so I'm wondering if the floating floor needs to. Your thoughts?
Given that your external building is your outer leaf, then a floating floor would only need to extend to underneath the new internal walls. Having said that, with the size of the space your in, I can't see any advantage in making the space smaller.

And whilst we're on the topic of the external shell....your floor is concrete, that's good. What are the existing walls and ceiling made from? I know you've said isolation is not a major concern, but having rain, wind and bird noise on your vocal tracks might get on your nerves after a while :lol:

all the best,

Steve
quick, cheap or good....pick any two.
Mojo Jr
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Re: New Project Studio in the Czech Countryside

Post by Mojo Jr »

stevev wrote:If the view from the window is a main source for inspiration and creativty which you can't bear to lose, the keep it by all means. That will come at the price of control room isolation and tight acoustics. Pleasant scenery, or good acoustics......one or the other, but not both unfortunately :(
If I have to, I'll just make a desktop graphic, of a photo of the windows, and keep it on my screen for inspiration. :lol:

Seriously though, I came across a studio, where they built out a music production and mix facility in an upstairs office space at a university (google the phrase "H-Happening: Building a Studio").

The front of the space is all glass. I've seen other such designs, but I have no idea how they achieved it. The article goes into some detail regarding treatment, but the specifics are not mentioned.

The designer did mention that he employed some sort of LEDE philosophy to the design, making the front end the live end, and the back of the room the dead end. I don't think I should attempt anything of that sort without the expertise of a consultant.

Of course, if someone here would like to discuss a few methods of achieving this in a space like mine, I'm certainly all ears.

Question for the forum:

1.) I've been spending time trying to work out exactly how to fit the studio long-ways with the monitors at the window-end of the room, firing toward the rear of the room. The slanted ceiling coming up from both sides, and the need for some way to access the front windows, is making it a bit difficult for me to figure out just how to fit slat walls and front soffits into the design. What would you recommend? I've downloaded some of the example SketchUp files and I've experimented with dropping in a few of them as inserts into my existing SketchUp. Do you think this is a good approach (just moving things around to see what works), or would you approach it differently?
stevev wrote:Given that your external building is your outer leaf, then a floating floor would only need to extend to underneath the new internal walls. Having said that, with the size of the space your in, I can't see any advantage in making the space smaller.
That's good news about the floor not needing to extend past the new walls.

I agree regarding no advantage in making the room any smaller. Problem is, if I position the studio long-ways, as has been recommended, the areas where the ceiling drops to its lowest point become unusable space.

Some would say I could use it as more bass trapping, but as it stands right now, the room is longer than it is wide by only a small amount. I should probably do what I can to maintain (or even improve) this characteristic (i.e., I can go more narrow, but I think I should avoid anything which would result in the front wall being the "long wall"). Here's what I mean:

Orienting the room long-ways, is going to require walls in front and at the back of the mix position, effectively shortening the room from front to back. I'm of the opinion that I should bring the room in from the sides to offset this and keep the room in its rectangular "front to back" aspect. As stated above, I'm having a very hard time trying to figure out how to make this "front to back" orientation work. Not sure where to place soffits, slat walls, etc. I'll get it figured out, though. I'm hoping these discussions will give me greater clarity and lead me to a solution sooner rather than later.
stevev wrote:And whilst we're on the topic of the external shell....your floor is concrete, that's good. What are the existing walls and ceiling made from? I know you've said isolation is not a major concern, but having rain, wind and bird noise on your vocal tracks might get on your nerves after a while :lol:
Just to clarify... the cork floor is actually fastened to some system which itself is resting on a concrete structure below. I'm not sure what system was used since I don't have access to the inside of the floor. I hope is still good from an acoustic perspective. :)

The side walls and ceiling are sheetrock. The wall opposite the windows, at the rear of the space, is plastered stone.

What's crazy is that even at present, if I close all the windows, sounds from outside are minimal. Even when it rains it's relatively quiet. However, having said that, the studio is more for "in the box" production and mixing. It's central use won't be for recording. Whenever I need to do more robust recording (i.e. acoustic drums, guitar ams, etc.), I'll hire a proper studio. I'll be doing my own recordings in the new space, which are based around an acoustic guitar and other acoustic instruments (any electric instruments and V-drums are recorded direct and "re-amped"/"drum replaced" "in the box," using some of the amazing plugins available these days).

The anechoically dead-quiet nights here (indoors anyway) are perfect for recording acoustic instruments, and I've got a great-sounding room at the other end of the attic. So, with the exception of the rain, other natural sounds are not an issue (not sure what the Czechs have done with all their crickets, and I don't want to ask) :shock: .

There are spaces in the cottage where I can go and record even when it's raining out and record in a pin-drop quiet environment.

I'm grateful for the opportunity to make these posts and have replies. The replies help me more than you realize. I think it's easy to forget that many of the people who come to this form are usually just people who are trying to find a path to a better environment within which they can do the thing they love most, whether that is creating music, or recording others, I think we are all simply trying, in the end, to bring more beauty into the world. We just need a bit of inspiration and the opportunity to stand on the shoulders of giants from time to time.

Thank you for your participation in the discussion, and as always, I welcome the participation of anyone who is so inclined.

- VJ -
Belief is being certain of that which will most probably prove to be false. -Vinnie James
Mojo Jr
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Re: New Project Studio in the Czech Countryside

Post by Mojo Jr »

Hello all,

VJ here...

Not sure what's happening or why my last post got no replies. Definitely let me know if I'm not doing this correctly.

So, for those of you who are following the thread so far, the plan for the new project studio is coming together. I'll be posting photos and updated .SKP files as the project moves forward.

I've decided to indeed go with a lateral layout. I am inspired by the design of HotRox/Ellamy studio in Aukland, New Zealand. The dimensions and layout of that studio are almost identical to the space I'm creating. There, too, the studio is laid out laterally across the attic space, with the monitors (Barefoot free-standing) at one of the low walls, and the listening position just forward of where the ceiling peaks.

You can review the John Sayers design, and the Ellamy build thread by clicking on, this text, and this text.

Quick question:

Because I want to protect the nice cork flooring for any occupants who may live in this house after me, I'm planning on laying down a layer of boards/panels over the existing, very nice, varnished cork floor. These boards will only extend out to just under the new control room walls, and won't extend to the edges of entire space.

This layer is more for protection than anything else, but I'm aware it has the added bonus of providing some isolation. The new walls will be fastened to this new upper layer of protective/isolating boards.

I'm looking at three choices: OSB, MDF, and Particleboard, with a "cushion" layer between the new boards and the cork, to protect the cork from being damaged by them.

What would you recommend for the intermediate "cushion" layer (hopefully something that won't itself damage the cork), and for the upper layer (MDF, OSB, or Particle board)?

Thanks in advance for your input.

- VJ -
Belief is being certain of that which will most probably prove to be false. -Vinnie James
stevev
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Re: New Project Studio in the Czech Countryside

Post by stevev »

Mojo Jr wrote:What would you recommend for the intermediate "cushion" layer (hopefully something that won't itself damage the cork), and for the upper layer (MDF, OSB, or Particle board)?
A foil backed underlay like the ones used under floating floors sounds like it'll do the job. It's around 2-3mm thick.

The bigger question though, is how are you going to fix your walls to the floor if you don't want to damage the cork floor?

cheers,

steve
quick, cheap or good....pick any two.
Mojo Jr
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Re: New Project Studio in the Czech Countryside

Post by Mojo Jr »

stevev wrote:The bigger question though, is how are you going to fix your walls to the floor if you don't want to damage the cork floor?

cheers,

steve
Hi Steve,

Thanks for your input and question.

The foil-backed underlay sounds like it may be an option. Do you know what it's called or what brand name it goes by? Is it made of asphalt-impregnated felt or some other asphalt product?

On the recommendation of a flooring contractor in California, I'm considering using 7mm thick felt underlayment as the intermediate "cushion" layer. The reason for this is, most other materials will break down over time and could stain the cork after a while. Felt will breathe, and will not break down into any substance which could stain or otherwise damage the varnish on the cork, over time. If I can find thinner than 7mm I'll go with that. I think the lower the profile of the felt, the more stable the upper (floating) boards will be. Your foil-backed recommendation may also be a viable option as long as it won't harm the existing floor. I know that for most overlaid floors, protecting the varnish on the subfloor is not usually a consideration. So, it seems they're not designed with protecting the subfloor in mind.

With regard to your question about how I plan to affix the walls, I'm actually planning on having the entire upper layer floating free (18mm thick, staggered configuration, tongue-&-groove plywood, OSB, or MDF), and then, attaching the walls to that layer using 15mm U-track screws (I'm building with steel studs to keep the weight down. U-track is the track which runs along the top and bottom and holds the studs. It's basically like the top or bottom plate in conventional wood framing).

The screws are specifically designed for securing U-track to floors where there is a danger of damaging underlying wiring or heating elements, etc. The screws are placed in a pretty tight pattern along the U-track (every few centimeters), so the walls will be held down very well.

Essentially, I'm creating a rectangle with the new flooring boards. The walls will attach at the edges of that rectangle, into the new flooring boards, using the above-mentioned screws. The boards will extend from one side of the loft space to the other laterally. The width of the studio room, however, will only be 312cm wide on the inside, and add to that the 100mm metal studs, and the Drywall and you get your outer dimension. It still leaves a nice bit of space on either side of the new studio room at the front and back of the loft space. The side with the windows, will become like an indoor patio/greenhouse/chillout room, the other side will become a vocal booth. (I'm still working out what I'm going to do about HVAC. I think I can use a ductless split system and run the lines through one of the raised benches located at either end of the space. There's already plumbing there which used to feed the radiator I removed, so I know I can use it for tubing runs.

As far as how secure the new overlaid boards will be, I'm not expecting them to move or shift, even though they won't be secured to the cork floor in any way. Only their weight and the weight of the attached walls should keep them from moving. Four walls and four spayed walls will be screwed into them all around the perimeter of the new space.

As always, I'm open to hearing any suggestions for alternative ways of further securing these panels.

If there happens to be someone reading this, who has experience with exactly this scenario, I'm very interested to learn how they approached, and solved the challenge.

I still have a question I'm wrestling with if there's someone who would care to answer it.

Given what I've written so far about the purpose of the new flooring layer, are there any recommendations regarding what material I should choose for the application? I'm considering:

1. Plywood
2. MDF
3. OSB

Is there anybody here who would consider one over the rest?

Again, Steve... thanks for the reply. I'm looking forward to getting more clarity.

- VJ -
Belief is being certain of that which will most probably prove to be false. -Vinnie James
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Re: New Project Studio in the Czech Countryside

Post by stevev »

Mojo Jr wrote:The foil-backed underlay sounds like it may be an option. Do you know what it's called or what brand name it goes by? Is it made of asphalt-impregnated felt or some other asphalt product?
I'd say it'll go by many different brand names around the world. It's a thin foam type of material with a foil backing for insulation purposes. There's no asphalt in it at all. If you can find a company that supplys floating timber on engineered flooring then you'll most likely find that they have this type of product.
Mojo Jr wrote:The screws are specifically designed for securing U-track to floors where there is a danger of damaging underlying wiring or heating elements, etc. The screws are placed in a pretty tight pattern along the U-track (every few centimeters), so the walls will be held down very well.
I haven't come across this type of system before, but it sounds like it should do what you need.
Mojo Jr wrote:As far as how secure the new overlaid boards will be, I'm not expecting them to move or shift, even though they won't be secured to the cork floor in any way. Only their weight and the weight of the attached walls should keep them from moving. Four walls and four spayed walls will be screwed into them all around the perimeter of the new space.
I'd definitely be giving this one a bit of thought. With people walking around on these boards and the boards themselves being on some sort of soft and flexible underlay, I think you'll get movement over time. Maybe some kind of glued dowel in the sheet edges could be a solution.
Mojo Jr wrote:Given what I've written so far about the purpose of the new flooring layer, are there any recommendations regarding what material I should choose for the application? I'm considering:

1. Plywood
2. MDF
3. OSB

Is there anybody here who would consider one over the rest?
I'd be going with what will give you the best grip for the 15mm screws that you'll be screwing down your walls with. Also, the flatter the better for this application so I'd be inclined to go with MDF.

cheers,

Steve
quick, cheap or good....pick any two.
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Re: New Project Studio in the Czech Countryside

Post by Mojo Jr »

stevev wrote:I'd say it'll go by many different brand names around the world. It's a thin foam type of material with a foil backing for insulation purposes. There's no asphalt in it at all. If you can find a company that supplys floating timber on engineered flooring then you'll most likely find that they have this type of product.
Thanks, Steve. Yes, found it here. There are several types, so I’m going to take a drive up to town on Monday and have a look. I’ll let you all know what I finally choose and my reasoning for the particular choice.
stevev wrote:I haven't come across this type of system before, but it sounds like it should do what you need.
Here’s a video (click this link). You’ll find the discussion about the screws at 1 minute and 42 seconds into the video. In that case, they’re using 13mm screws. In the video, they talk about metal framing from the UK perspective, which is the perspective I’m using in my build.

That video is actually good reference for anyone wishing to get a better handle on metal stud construction. There are a couple of gems scattered throughout the clip.
stevev wrote:I'd definitely be giving this one a bit of thought. With people walking around on these boards and the boards themselves being on some sort of soft and flexible underlay, I think you'll get movement over time. Maybe some kind of glued dowel in the sheet edges could be a solution.
Good perspective, Steve. Thanks for that. I’ll definitely give this some more thought. I was thinking about using some form of frame laying horizontally along the outer edge of the entire rectangle, and screwed horizontally into the outer edges to form almost a “picture frame” type system. I may also glue vinyl tiles onto the face of the boards over the entire area of the control room, which would essentially “tape” all the boards together over their top surface. Not crazy about this idea due to the added weight. I’ll have to give it some more thought. Again… good perspective. It’s nice to get different angles on a challenge.
stevev wrote:I'd be going with what will give you the best grip for the 15mm screws that you'll be screwing down your walls with. Also, the flatter the better for this application so I'd be inclined to go with MDF.
MDF is where I’d like to go with it. You’ve mentioned a very important consideration, which is flatness. MDF is indeed very flat. I’ve sourced a supplier of a very interesting hybrid of OSB and MDF here in the Czech Republic. The company is called Egger, and they have a product called “combiline.” You can see it by clicking here. There’s a PDF data sheet farther down the page. It’s got good screw pullout resistance numbers, so it should work fine. Again, gonna have a look at my local supplier on Monday.

I’m grateful for the input, Steve. It’s giving me some very good alternative perspectives, which are proving very helpful. I essentially want to pull together all the necessary design elements and then, once I’m comfortable with the setup, execute the plan quickly.

Today, I’m going to be doing a “bounce test” using a SketchUp RayTrace plugin recommended by our forum member Glenn “gullfo” (http://www.runnel.com) at this link. (See posts #13 and #16 on that page.)

In the next day or so, I’ll post my rough sketch of the new layout, including wall splays, etc. Hopefully I can get some feedback on things like:

1.) Rear wall trap depth
2.) Wall splay angles and depth
3.) Treatment ideas for the actual slanted ceiling areas, etc.

Looking forward to continuing the discussion.

Steve, thanks again.

Na Zdravi!

- VJ -
Belief is being certain of that which will most probably prove to be false. -Vinnie James
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Re: New Project Studio in the Czech Countryside

Post by stevev »

Mojo Jr wrote:I was thinking about using some form of frame laying horizontally along the outer edge of the entire rectangle, and screwed horizontally into the outer edges to form almost a “picture frame” type system. I may also glue vinyl tiles onto the face of the boards over the entire area of the control room, which would essentially “tape” all the boards together over their top surface. Not crazy about this idea due to the added weight.
Either of those ideas sound feasible. Could you also possibly use a full sheet of linoleum and glue it to the entire surface? That would really help any sideways movement of the sheets.
Mojo Jr wrote:I’m grateful for the input, Steve. It’s giving me some very good alternative perspectives, which are proving very helpful.
your welcome :D I know I had a hell of a lot of input from this forum (Stuart in particular) which made my build a lot better than it otherwise would have been. So it's nice to be able to help someone else out.

all the best,

Steve
quick, cheap or good....pick any two.
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Re: New Project Studio in the Czech Countryside

Post by Mojo Jr »

Attachments: 3 new SketchUp images.
stevev wrote:Could you also possibly use a full sheet of linoleum and glue it to the entire surface? That would really help any sideways movement of the sheets.
Good call, Steve. I sourced a supplier who carries the exact width of the control room at a very reasonable price. I'm getting closer to making the final decisions... which leads me to my next group of questions for you and the other readers here....

Here's the progress so far... (and those new questions):

I'm hoping to get some feedback to help guide me through my next steps, help me avoid any major disasters, and warn me if there is anything in the design which you feel I should change. I could really use some more experienced eyes on this at this stage, just to help keep me on the right path.

Below are a few new Sketchup images of the current layout and materials distribution, to help illustrate my thought process. Feel free to critique and comment without reservation.

Hopefully, with your input, I'm going to create a final drawing over the weekend, and hopefully order all the materials sometime by mid-week.

You'll notice in the attached images, that I've opted for a full insulation blitz at the front and rear of the control room, instead of using hangers (note the brown Ecose insulation). I'm still open to the idea of hangers, but since insulation is relatively inexpensive here, I figured I'd go the "boggy" route (a la "MyRoom Acoustics"), and just fill the voids completely with low-density Ecose. If anyone thinks I should still use hangers instead, I'm all ears.

You'll also notice that I've designed the back of the control room with 100% absorption, and no slats. This is what I plan for the initial phase of the build. REW Testing will determine if I need to bring back any of the upper frequencies. I'll add slats to the side walls in that case just for some reflection/diffusion of the highs and mids. I just want to go as deep and as thick as I can in this small space to try and get as much low end absorption as possible over a broad spectrum of lower frequencies. If you think I need more... definitely let me know. There is still space at the back of the room to come forward another foot or so with even more absorption.

For the flooring, I'm still thinking it over. In the images below, you'll notice I've used OSB as the flooring. If I can figure out a way to keep it from sliding around once it's in place, and yet still leave it uncovered, I may just paint it a high gloss white. The color decor of the studio is very light and airy, so a high gloss white floor would go well.

The outer skin of the new parallel long walls is 15mm gypsum/drywall. The inner surface of the walls will be covered with cloth. The outer walls are framed with metal studs, and the splayed walls and insulation barrier walls are wood framed.

So... here are my new questions:

1.) As you look at the walls in the sketches, do you see anything that immediately jumps out at you as a "no no?"

2.) I've used a design which calls for two outer walls to be built, and then, the slanted walls to be splayed from them inside the room. Do you feel this is the best approach?

3.) In this current design, you'll notice that the two new parallel walls cut across the existing space and terminate at the two low walls at either side of the existing space. Should they terminate instead at two new short walls which run next to the existing short walls? Basically build two walls which are built right next to the existing short walls, and connect the long walls to them, instead of to the skin of the existing space?

4.) The front half of the room has slat resonators in the form of sealed, slat-covered, slanted voids, in the classic John Sayers style. Would it be good to repeat these at the back half of the room instead of just having slanted absorption? I know it is common practice to have the rear of the room (especially small spaces) be dedicated to absorption. Can you see any reason for me to change that here?

5.) Can you think of anything else which I may be missing here? (I'm going to be dealing with HVAC and electrics in my final draft over the weekend). Other than those things, can you think of anything else I've missed?

I've spent literally hundreds of hours learning, and then using, SketchUp so I could be able to better articulate what I'm trying to accomplish and give you the clearest picture I possibly can. Hopefully I've done okay.

Please don't hesitate to chime in with your comments, critiques and suggestions. All participation is greatly appreciated and warmly welcomed.

Steve, thank you again for your input.

- VJ -
Belief is being certain of that which will most probably prove to be false. -Vinnie James
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Re: New Project Studio in the Czech Countryside

Post by stevev »

Mojo Jr wrote:1.) As you look at the walls in the sketches, do you see anything that immediately jumps out at you as a "no no?"
I believe the rear walls that you have angled back into the room are unneccessary. Keep them square to the back of the room and put superchunks in the corner that is created. The back 'wall' in front of your absorbtion is not solid is it?

Are you able to soffit mount those monitors? I realize this might be problematic given the angle of the ceiling. That would help a lot with your bass control and get you a little bit more swinging room for your listening position.

It's good that you've got L/R symmetry in the room with the opposing doors.

You haven't mentioned your ceiling here. What's the plan for that?
Mojo Jr wrote:In this current design, you'll notice that the two new parallel walls cut across the existing space and terminate at the two low walls at either side of the existing space. Should they terminate instead at two new short walls which run next to the existing short walls? Basically build two walls which are built right next to the existing short walls, and connect the long walls to them, instead of to the skin of the existing space?
If you're building a room within a room, then yes, you need independant internal walls. But....you then also need an independant ceiling. In the drawing it looks like you're using the existing ceiling as well. Is that right? If so it may be a moot point to try and build new internal walls if you're connecting your internal structure to the existing roof as that will decrease your isolation considerably.
Mojo Jr wrote:The front half of the room has slat resonators in the form of sealed, slat-covered, slanted voids, in the classic John Sayers style. Would it be good to repeat these at the back half of the room instead of just having slanted absorption? I know it is common practice to have the rear of the room (especially small spaces) be dedicated to absorption. Can you see any reason for me to change that here?
As I mentioned at the top, square off the rear side walls and put super chunks in the corners that are created. This will give give a lot of absorbtion for the back wall.
Mojo Jr wrote: 5.) Can you think of anything else which I may be missing here? (I'm going to be dealing with HVAC and electrics in my final draft over the weekend). Other than those things, can you think of anything else I've missed?
Have you got the right density of insulation for your internal treatment?
Mojo Jr wrote: I figured I'd go the "boggy" route (a la "MyRoom Acoustics"), and just fill the voids completely with low-density Ecose.


I'm not sure what Ecose is, but if 'low density' means 10-15kg m/3 and its a fibreglass product, then it'll be to light for the kind of absorbtion you'll need. You'll need to get the density up to around 30kg/m3 in fibreglass for it to work well for bass trapping.

I see the external dimension of the room is 3 meters....Is it possible to get your flooring sheets in 3 meter lengths? That way you at least only have to deal with movement in one plane rather than two as they'll span the width of the room.

all the best,

Steve
quick, cheap or good....pick any two.
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Re: New Project Studio in the Czech Countryside

Post by Mojo Jr »

Attachments: 2 new SketchUp drawings (Ceiling Absorber Studies and super chunk placement)
stevev wrote:I believe the rear walls that you have angled back into the room are unneccessary. Keep them square to the back of the room and put superchunks in the corner that is created.
Thanks for the reply, Steve.

So, if I understand you correctly, Steve, you recommend I get rid of the slanting walls, but I should keep the deep insulation area. Correct?

That insulation area is a meter deep, 0.73 meter at the back and more than a meter high at the front (and I have room to bring it even further forward, making it even deeper, and higher at the front). Won't that basically handle any low end build up in the corners back there? (This leads me directly to your next question):
stevev wrote:The back 'wall' in front of your absorbtion is not solid is it?
Correct, Steve. That's an open, absorption wall which will be covered in fabric panels. Those yellow panels you see between the studs are panels of denser insulation in front of the lighter variety. I've read that if you create a deep area of lighter density insulation (40-45 Kg/m3 of mineral wool in this case) (like Boggy does), then it is good to face it with a layer of something a bit more dense. I've read this on several sites, and I've seen several of Boggy's projects where he does that. In addition to extending the low frequency absorption, I understand it also helps give the wall some form, as the panels are semi-rigid insulation panels similar to OC703.

I admit, I haven't been able to find out exactly what density these "more dense" panels should be. If you know... I'm all ears.

So, Steve, with regard to adding super chunks, since that entire back area is absorption with no solid wall in front of it (only a fabric covering), is there any advantage to adding 45 degrees of super chunks in the corners where the fabric covering will meet the new long walls on either side of that rear area (since these are not really seen as "corners" by low frequencies)? Is there any merit to the idea of maybe just making that trap area even deeper? (Maybe bring it forward an additional half meter?)
stevev wrote:Are you able to soffit mount those monitors? I realize this might be problematic given the angle of the ceiling. That would help a lot with your bass control and get you a little bit more swinging room for your listening position.
I'm certainly open to the idea of soffit mounting. In fact, I would LOVE to be able to flush mount these monitors. I am a complete fan of the idea. Here's my dilemma: the monitors are Mackie active HR824 MkII's with a bass port in the rear. These are also relatively tall monitors. Since I'm completely unfamiliar with soffit mount design (other than what I've read on this and other audio fora), I just don't know where to begin with the soffit mounting of these. Please... you or anyone else here who has any thoughts on this, do share. In fact, at this point, to speed things up, I'd even consider paying someone to design them.

I've done some SketchUp sessions with the monitors flush mounted, and what I've found is that, for these active monitors, I would need to have room above them on the baffle to create a vent hole for the heat. I just don't know how to make this happen in the space I've got. I'm certainly open to any and all creative ideas here.

If you have a look at Ellamy studios in Aukland (formerly HotRox), which was designed by John (search the forum here), you'll notice that his space is strikingly similar to mine in terms of overall shape. And in that space, Louis is using Barefoot monitors on stands in a similar configuration to that which I've envisioned. In fact, John's Ellamy design inspired my design, due to the similarity of his space to mine, and the low side walls. He's got essentially the same exact structure as I, with the exception that he's gone out over 4 meters wide, and I'm only going 3 meters wide (I could go out to that 4 meter width also, but I want to keep the front window area for a chill-out/greenhouse, and the rear area near the main entry door as a vocal booth and gear storage area). Other than that, the shape of both rooms is similar. I can see that he would have had problems soffit mounting his monitors, and I think he may have opted for free-standing simply because of the limitations of his space. With that said, he seems to be delighted with the results.

Again... I'm completely open to any assistance in getting my monitors soffit mounted. Just not sure it's even possible given the available space.
stevev wrote:You haven't mentioned your ceiling here. What's the plan for that?
Very good question, Steve. Here's what I've been thinking (please review the attached images): I can either carpet the floor and leave the ceiling "live" (just placing small panels at the first reflection points on the front slanted ceiling area just above the monitor cones), or, leave the floor bare, add the first reflection point panel, and add 100mm deep absorption all along the apex at the top of the ceiling (or all of the above).

Alternatively I could cover the entire back sloping wall with 60mm of absorption (which would mean that the ceiling on that side of the space would lose 60mm). I'm already expecting a LOT of forehead marks on the ceiling as it is. :lol: So... I'm not sure that's the direction.

As with everything in this design, I'm am totally open to your, and anyone else's thoughts regarding the initial treatment of the ceiling area. What creative ideas spring to mind? I may have room for a couple of "cloud" type panels as well, angled in such a way as to move reflections further back into the space.
stevev wrote:In the drawing it looks like you're using the existing ceiling as well. Is that right? If so it may be a moot point to try and build new internal walls if you're connecting your internal structure to the existing roof as that will decrease your isolation considerably.
Yes, that's absolutely correct, Steve. I'm attaching all the new walls to the existing ceiling gypsum/drywall. I thought about creating an "inner ceiling" but the dimensions of the space, and this configuration, won't allow me to do it. It would make the ceiling far too low to be of any function.
stevev wrote:Have you got the right density of insulation for your internal treatment?
stevev wrote:I'm not sure what Ecose is, but if 'low density' means 10-15kg m/3 and its a fibreglass product, then it'll be to light for the kind of absorbtion you'll need. You'll need to get the density up to around 30kg/m3 in fibreglass for it to work well for bass trapping.


Thanks for that clarification, Steve. Ecose is the trademark of a manufacturing process where they're using "earth friendly" binders to produce the insulation product. They've even colored it "brown" so it looks more "earth friendly." We'll see in a hundred years just what BS they're shoveling. :wink:

In the meantime... I'm only considering products which have the densities recommended by you good people here on the forum. As you've mentioned, if it's fiberglass (a la "pink fluffy"), then it should be 30Kg/m3, and if it's mineral wool (which is what we have here in the Czech Republic), then it should have (according to Stuart and others here) a density of 48Kg/m3, to be equivalent to the pink fluffy in terms of gas flow resistivity.

What I'm not sure of, is what I should do about the "more dense" panels which go into the slat resonators and the barrier wall across the back trap area. I'm not clear on what density these should be, and I've not been able to find a clear indicator here on this forum or others.

Should I just be using the rigid version of the 48kg/m3? Should I just use the same insulation I'm using in the deep traps (48kg/m3) and just be done with it? Or, for those specific applications, should I be looking for something more dense? For example, something around 60kg/m3? Not clear on this yet. I need to get clarity on this so I don't make any mistakes. Still researching.
stevev wrote:I see the external dimension of the room is 3 meters....Is it possible to get your flooring sheets in 3 meter lengths? That way you at least only have to deal with movement in one plane rather than two as they'll span the width of the room.
Man, I tell you, that would be fantastic to find a supplier who has the exact size. (Of course, I'd never be able to get them up the stairs and into the room). :)

Actually, Steve, that 3 meters is the "internal" dimension. Sorry that isn't clearer on the SketchUp drawing. The largest size of either OSB or MDF I've been able to source locally, is maximum 2500mm length and 1200mm width. I think I'm going to go with your idea and cover the floor with something to inhibit any lateral sheer. I'm not sure yet with what. I need to decide within the next couple of days though. I'm hoping to place materials orders on Wednesday.

By the way... I had a look at your studio, Steve. I love the vibe. Sparse, calm, nurturing. Perfect. Good work. Hopefully, with the help of those around me here on the forum, I can create something with a similar vibe. I've got a ton of work to do, not to mention a new album of my own that I need to get out there (I've kept folks waiting far too long), and I'm definitely needing a nice, creative space within which to do it all. Hopefully very soon that'll be a reality.

Thanks again, Steve. I look forward to continuing the dialogue.

- VJ -
Belief is being certain of that which will most probably prove to be false. -Vinnie James
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Re: New Project Studio in the Czech Countryside

Post by stevev »

Mojo Jr wrote:So, if I understand you correctly, Steve, you recommend I get rid of the slanting walls, but I should keep the deep insulation area. Correct?
correct
Mojo Jr wrote:Correct, Steve. That's an open, absorption wall which will be covered in fabric panels. Those yellow panels you see between the studs are panels of denser insulation in front of the lighter variety. I've read that if you create a deep area of lighter density insulation (40-45 Kg/m3 of mineral wool in this case) (like Boggy does), then it is good to face it with a layer of something a bit more dense. I've read this on several sites, and I've seen several of Boggy's projects where he does that. In addition to extending the low frequency absorption, I understand it also helps give the wall some form, as the panels are semi-rigid insulation panels similar to OC703.
I'm not familiar with that technique and it's the first time i've heard it mentioned. That's not saying it isn't valid, but I don't believe its been recommended by any of the guru's on this forum...but I also haven't read every post here either :shock:
Mojo Jr wrote:So, Steve, with regard to adding super chunks, since that entire back area is absorption with no solid wall in front of it (only a fabric covering), is there any advantage to adding 45 degrees of super chunks in the corners where the fabric covering will meet the new long walls on either side of that rear area (since these are not really seen as "corners" by low frequencies)? Is there any merit to the idea of maybe just making that trap area even deeper? (Maybe bring it forward an additional half meter?)
Correct. If there's no solid wall then there's no corner. Making the trap deeper probably won't hurt, but if it comes at the cost of making the space less user-friendlyn then perhaps it isn't justifed.
Mojo Jr wrote:the monitors are Mackie active HR824 MkII's with a bass port in the rear.
hmmm.....I believe rear bass ports aren't soffit mountable, but you'd have to check some other threads to confirm that.
Mojo Jr wrote:I can either carpet the floor and leave the ceiling "live" (just placing small panels at the first reflection points on the front slanted ceiling area just above the monitor cones), or, leave the floor bare, add the first reflection point panel, and add 100mm deep absorption all along the apex at the top of the ceiling (or all of the above).
Don't carpet the floor.....add panels at the first reflection points on the ceiling and as many other places as you can without sacrificing the usability of the room. It's no good having great absorbtion if you can't stand up :D
Mojo Jr wrote:Should I just be using the rigid version of the 48kg/m3? Should I just use the same insulation I'm using in the deep traps (48kg/m3) and just be done with it? Or, for those specific applications, should I be looking for something more dense? For example, something around 60kg/m3? Not clear on this yet. I need to get clarity on this so I don't make any mistakes. Still researching.
If this is rock-wool you're talking about then go for the 48kg/m. I believe it starts to act more like a wall as you get into densitys higher than that. The room treatment for my whole control room is 32kg/m semi-ridgid fibreglass. Everything....back wall absorbtion, side, ceilings, superchunks. It's pretty expensive but well worth it :D
Mojo Jr wrote:By the way... I had a look at your studio, Steve. I love the vibe. Sparse, calm, nurturing. Perfect. Good work. Hopefully, with the help of those around me here on the forum, I can create something with a similar vibe. I've got a ton of work to do, not to mention a new album of my own that I need to get out there (I've kept folks waiting far too long), and I'm definitely needing a nice, creative space within which to do it all. Hopefully very soon that'll be a reality.

Thanks again, Steve. I look forward to continuing the dialogue.
Thanks mate :D It's been working great for me as a room, but in the never ending money pit that is a studio, I've now got a hankering to replace my monitors to do the room justice....$$$$$

It's a lot of work but all worth it in the end if you do things right. I think you're looking pretty good here so far. It's a difficult size and shape of room to use, but I think you've got the hang of what you need to do and the design limitations involved.

all the best,


Steve
quick, cheap or good....pick any two.
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