Thanks for the quick responses guys!
audiofile88 wrote:First, you are showing that your air gap for the walls is only 3 inches:
If I'm not mistaken, the exterior stud wall is included in the air gap, making the air gap a total of 6.5". This illustrates a two leaf system where there is the exterior siding/facing (1st leaf) - insulated stud wall assembly- 1" gap - 2" loose insulation - double gypsum board (2nd leaf). The drawing could be clearer in stating that there is no GB on the "internal side" of the external wall. Is this not correct?
audiofile88 wrote:Second, you say that you are building an inside-out ceiling, but you aren't. In fact, you aren't building a ceiling at all!
This was drawn in reference to Rod's "Fully Isolated Ceiling" drawing in the Walls, Ceilings, and Floors chapter. Although some of the details vary from his, I am still making use of the same principle. Where he has used GB at the top of the "existing joists". I do however undertand in accordance to this drawing that the ceiling seperation between rooms would provide no isolation what so ever. Thanks for pointing this out! Should I just use RC and a double layer of GB to satisfy the isolation requierments, or is there a better method of conserving room height?
Soundman2020 wrote:Several ideas...that is the top joist area correct? Are you even considering trusses for your roof...might be worth looking into.
Yes, the drawing details the "existing ceiling" (although it hasn't been built yet) at the top of the joists. The roof will be made to match the existing house roof which is a hip roof design on the back portion of the garage.
Soundman2020 wrote:Heck since I'm spending your money, why not look into getting the upstairs wall height increased to nine feet and knock out the whole vertical head room issue?
If only it were so simple

. I will definitely make note of this recommendation!