Hi Guys, my first time posting here.
I am just closing on a building I plan to move my recording studio to. I"ll have a nice large live room about 25x36 or so with a 10 ft ceiling. Anyway this is a brick building with most likely 3 layers of brick butted up to another brick building with 3 layers of brick(not sure if the buildings are actually touching or not but my guess is no).
There is currently a 2x4 stud wall butted up against the brick wall with R13 insulation in between and sheathed in 5/8" sheet rock. My plan was to sandwich a layer of celotex sound board on top of the 5/8 with another layer of 5/8 on top of that. So the wall would be studs with insulation-5/8 sheet rock-sound board-5/8" sheet rock. All caulked with acoustical caulk.
My friend how ever thinks I should add a resilient channel over the first layer of 5/8 then screw the sound board to that and the 5/8" on top of that.
Any idea's which would be more effective?
Also has anyone heard of quiet solution drywall? It is about the same price as regular 5/8 but with alot better sound blocking. Something about viscoelstic polymers to improve the STC rating. Sounds like a good idea but has anyone used it in real life as opposed to 5/8".
BTW- This is not my first time building a studio but I want to get it closer to right this time. In my current location the walls are stud/celotex/1/2" sheet rock/resilient channel/5/8" sheet rock. I feel that doing it this way may have been wrong as the top layer of drywall can resonate. My friend built his with the celotex on top of the resilient channel then 5/8 and he said the celotex acts as a damper. Could this be right? I've read several books on studio constuction(all of the Everest ones and one of the Phillip Newell ones) and can't quite seem to find the right answers.
sound proofing wall
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knightfly
- Senior Member
- Posts: 6976
- Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2003 11:11 am
- Location: West Coast, USA
The brick part will act as one leaf of a 2-leaf (mass, air, mass) system - the stud cavities are the air part, then you should have only ONE more leaf of mass, with as many layers as necessary for required isolation - by adding RC on top of that first drywall layer and then adding more layers, you now have a triple leaf system - you would get slightly better midrange isolation with that, but bass frequencies would be much LESS attenuated with a triple leaf wall.
The only two practical ways to do this would be to either just add another 2 layers of drywall (forget "sound board", not nearly the mass as drywall, more expensive, harder to work with )
or
remove the existing drywall (possibly even the stud frame, if you want LOTS of isolation) and add the RC directly to the stud frame and THEN put 2-3 layers of drywall on the RC,
or
build a NEW stud frame, a few inches further from the bricks, with no hard contact to the bricks (generally, sway brackets with neoprene are used) and then put your 2-3 layers of drywall directly on the studs (one side only, NO RC needed)
Check out the "sticky" called "complete section" for a more complete discussion on this - also, the huge one on floating floors, there's more there than just floor info... Steve
The only two practical ways to do this would be to either just add another 2 layers of drywall (forget "sound board", not nearly the mass as drywall, more expensive, harder to work with )
or
remove the existing drywall (possibly even the stud frame, if you want LOTS of isolation) and add the RC directly to the stud frame and THEN put 2-3 layers of drywall on the RC,
or
build a NEW stud frame, a few inches further from the bricks, with no hard contact to the bricks (generally, sway brackets with neoprene are used) and then put your 2-3 layers of drywall directly on the studs (one side only, NO RC needed)
Check out the "sticky" called "complete section" for a more complete discussion on this - also, the huge one on floating floors, there's more there than just floor info... Steve