Control Room Window Glass type Laminated ??

[MrSquire]

Ooof, my bad, i didnt realize that the ceiling pictured wasnt decoupled. Dont listen to me!


Could he actually do the isolated sway braces with that single 2x8 header? i was always under the assumption that between rooms it had to be resting on the framing for that side only.......

[JOHNNYGATE]

There is no way its coming down... the drywall is taped and done. Ripping out the ceiling is not possible as the trusses of houses are engineered with the drywall on them as part of the building code for hurricane etc.

What else can I do how bad will it be ?

[BriHar]

In the photos of the framing, I can see no indication of any fixation - neither screw nor bolt - affixing the framing to either the floor or ceiling. Are these frames freestanding?

@ Stuart;
I think in answering my post from 9:00 Aug 28th, you in fact edited my post - have a look, gotta watch that.

At any rate, as you mentioned, my suggestion would require using isolated/decoupled bolts or screws. In my own case, and in correspondence with Gulfo, we agreed using screws sheathed in rubber tubing and a rubber washer through an oversized hole in the framing and into a plastic anchor plug in the ceiling or floor would be the DIY or cheapy way to do this but should work.

[Soundman2020]

I think in answering my post from 9:00 Aug 28th, you in fact edited my post - have a look, gotta watch that.

OOOPS!!!! Sorry about that!!

Damn! My fault for clicking the "edit" button instead of the "quote" button! Hasty fingers.... (Wish those two buttons weren't so close together.)

You bet I'll take more care with that in the future... Excuse while I go beat myself up a bit for five minutes, for stupidity... (<---- I'm the horse there...)


- Stuart -

[Soundman2020]

In the photos of the framing, I can see no indication of any fixation - neither screw nor bolt - affixing the framing to either the floor or ceiling. Are these frames freestanding?

I hadn't noticed that: good call. If that's then case, then that's a big problem. Not only will those walls most likely not pass inspection, since they don't meet code, that's also a dangerous situation, and apart from that (as if that weren't enough already) the seal probably will not last long (assuming that there is some type of seal there) due to movement of the frame.

So if that framing is not fixed down properly, that should be a big priority right now.

In my own case, and in correspondence with Gulfo, we agreed using screws sheathed in rubber tubing and a rubber washer through an oversized hole in the framing and into a plastic anchor plug in the ceiling or floor would be the DIY or cheapy way to do this but should work.

If Glenn recommended that, then I'm sure it would be OK, but just for reference here's the non-DIY products that do the same thing:

http://www.mason-industries.com/masonin ... pdf/HG.pdf
http://www.kineticsnoise.com/arch/wallmat.html

- Stuart -

[JOHNNYGATE]

The headder is screwed into the roof truss and the studs are attached to the concrete walls, nothing attached on the floor.

[Soundman2020]

The headder is screwed into the roof truss and the studs are attached to the concrete walls,

So you have solid flanking paths on all sides. Your isolation will not be very high. I don't recall if you mentioned your goals for isolation earlier in the thread, and I'm tight on time so I can't check back right now, but I doubt that you'll get much more than 30-something dB of isolation from that. Perhaps low 40's, tops. Is that good enough for what you need, or were you shooting for higher isolation levels?

- Stuart -

[JOHNNYGATE]

Well define flanking path, The floor is solid concrete, not going to leek but the deepest of bass, the walls are solid concrete and the studs dont touch each other on the walls. I see it as the only flanking path as ceiling no ?

[BriHar]

A flanking path is any mechanical bridging between two or more otherwise separate components which will serve to allow conduction of vibration from the one component into another.

Both studframes are sitting on the same concrete slab with no decoupling - they are mechanically bridged. The two frames are fastened to the same roof truss assembly again they are bridged. "...The studs are attached to the concrete walls..." I assume you mean the end studs of the wall frames, This common connection is a further bridge.

[Zenon Marko]

Laminated is better, but more expensive. Tempered is fine if you want to save some money.

I know it needs to be 5/16ths and the other 3/8ths

How did you determine that? 5/16ths would be right for a leaf with one and a half layers of 5/8" drywall, assuming it is laminated glass. How thick is your drywall on that leaf?

- Stuart -

Is there any reason to do both laminated and tempered?
I could not find comparative data for such a scenario.
I understand tempering makes the glass more rigid, so that may or may not be ideal acoustically.