UAN - new Control Room build

[gullfo]

most times - i would use only a HD door closer to close it and keep it closed, and a key/turn latch so you can lock the door inside by turning a know and a key outside so you can lock the room. if no locks are needed, then a simple turning latch could be used so simply turning the handle unlatches it. a lever is better than a knob. having the latch mechanism shouldn't be an issue since your seals are all on the outside or under the door and the "holes" are minimal and covered and you can seal those up. unless something is wrong, the keyhole should not be a major contributor to isolation loss...

[RJHollins]

Hi Glenn,

Thanks for calming the concerns on the door latch.

I must apologize ... I look at things, now, in a much more hyper-sensitive view in my
lofty goal to build to the 'standards' that you've outlined. Nothing wrong with that, EXCEPT
its' difficult to assess until AFTER the fact. It is so welcomed to hear from experienced
voices !

This morning I went to the 'Mill' to view the CAD drawing for the door & frame. Everything
looked good !

We made a change to use solid maple for the 'split' jamb.

I went ahead and added a door latch hole to be cut in. From looking at various door knobs,
I saw several designs that provided a significant 'covering' of the knob hole. Again, this was
not in the preliminary thoughts ... but after discussion, the concern that one of the children
could wander into the room, unattended, was a flag. I'm glad to learn that we can maintain
functionality AND safety

During all this, another dozen or so things need attention ... one I've been thinking about
is the mounting of the acoustic panels on the wall. I'll need to deal with the ceiling hang later.
I have an idea that I'm getting ready to test ... if there are no casualties ......
I'll post pictures

Big Thanks!

[RJHollins]

Progress update ...

wow ... let me say, I hadn't expected the difficulty in finding hardware for the CR door

I've been to many local stores, and about the internet . Many of the limited choices I had
were items that are discontinued Adding to that ... I was not impressed with the quality
[or lack thereof] of the residential door handles ... forget style. They just seemed so 'cheap'
... but NOT in price.

Talking with the Mill, I had to go the commercial route ... even there, the local suppliers had
really narrowed down their choice and inventories.

Fortunately TODAY, I found a commercial door building company, and using brother contractor
pull, they offered to help.

Again, mention building a Control Room, and the guy helping me shared HIS adventures in
trying to build a listening room @ home. So, out of the norm , they really tried to
help.

Although the hardware turned out different in what I was initially looking for ... this is what
I went with .... search exhaustion HAD set in

The door handle is now a long vertical type 'tube' like you might see on a theater door.
Surprisingly, this thing must weight 40 lbs !!! -- they didn't have a smaller, lighter one.

I also went with a pressure, roller latching mechanism. This piece can be fully adjusted to
set the strength of 'grip' ... they use these on some hospital doors.

Threshold ... changed this up ... he had a automatic bottom door seal [Full Mortise], and
fully adjustable [and replaceable]. He guaranteed that it will seal the bottom directly to the
floor [even with the slight slope]. This also means that the entrance is unimpeded [nothing
to trip over].

For safety, I also added a keyed dead bolt.

All this was hand delivered to my door guy. He seemed pleased, and foresaw no immediate
issues.

I think the door hardware guys really took pity on the musician ... especially the price for
these high quality of these components. They're on the invite list for the grand listening
party!

Anyway ... if I drank .... I would
I have no pics of the latest purchase ... will post when I got something.
Looking forward to my gig tomorrow nite ... then rest up for the next challenge of this build.

[gullfo]

it's never too late to take up drinking

[xaMdaM]

it's never too late to take up drinking

Not only is it never too late... but it seems to end up being a proper habit to consume a bit of adult beverage to ease the pain and suffering that wallets endure!

[xaMdaM]

I can appreciate your wanting unimpeded doorways, but two things come to mind...

The hinge side is not going to be much of an issue, but the latch side is not going to be all that rigid, and may well shift. The use of a threshold does stabilize the bottom of the door. Granted, it probably will not shift that much, but it will shift as the seasons do.... even if you used a metal jamb.

The largest sound leak you will have will indeed be the single point of contact of your guillotine sweep.

The use of an adjustable threshold and guillotine, gives you a double seal, especially when used with a "D" seal attached to the underside of the door itself... where the "D" seal rests upon the adjustable threshold.

Sorry to hear you got kinda' hosed on the handles. I used 16" ADA/bathroom grab bars for my doors. I think I paid something like $18/each.

The use of the hospital grade latches and door closers is something I didn't want to deal with. Granted you can adjust them and get compliant, but often, that means that your fire marshal and inspectors have to inspect them annually, as opposed to every two years for fire extinguishers. Having worked in the medical field for quite a few years, those latch and closer settings need pretty routine maintenance - according to the hospital maintenance engineers I know. They also complained about having to replace those latches every year or so... granted, those were often high traffic entrances, but there were also doors that had infrequent use. This could have been because they used cheaply made stuff, but after all the horror stories... I said; "NO WAY!"

I'm not grumblin' or chastising you by any means... just passing on what I know... and what I didn't want to have to deal with... and taking into account that mine is a commercial rated building.

[RJHollins]

Hello GANG,

Was hoping to report major progress on the build ... but ... so far STILL waiting
on the door and jamb

In the meantime, been trying to address other things that I need to do.

Chunky Corner traps:

OK ... I've been scanning the forum, looking for ideas on putting these in place.

I have the 2" rigid fiberglass [Knauf] that I plan to cut into 4 triangles/sheet, and place
them stacked floor to ceiling.

Now here's the perplexing part

After going through all the effort to maintain 'separation' between the drywall corners,
filling 'those' 1/4" gaps with backer rod & caulk. When I try to come up with a design
for a frame to COVER the corners, I have yet to figure a way to NOT flank between the
adjacent walls

I was thinking of using some type of angle bracket that I could mount to the wall, that
would have a 45 degree 'face', and using [maybe] nylon bolts, could wing-nut the frame
to the corner bracket.

Now ... am I trying to carry this too far ... or is there a simple design that someone has
that meets the intended design criteria ?

Insights most welcomed !

Thanks

[gullfo]

the frame will likely only be secured by a few screws to the walls so don't worry too much there - it's mainly to keep your insulation stack from tipping and holding the cloth/plastic.

[xaMdaM]

I took 2x4's, ripped them down the middle (at a 45' angle), and put them up vertically on either side of the trap.

After stuffing the corners with 703, I stretched the fabric across the front, and used no cross pieces at the top or bottom. The only thing that tied the two walls together were fabric.

[xSpace]

french cleat...no screws...no glue, a french cleat is how I have hung mine.

[RJHollins]

ok ... I did some searching on 'french cleats', as I was not familiar with them.
Always nice to learn about something new

This has got me rethinking my hanging of acoustic absorber panels [and the covering
of the superchunks].

I've been testing an idea to hang the wall absorbers [2'x4'x4"]. I would like to mount them
4" off the wall surface as recommended.
Basically I'm testing 3 4" bolts [2 at the top, one at the bottom middle]. these are locked
to the frame with 2 nuts & washer. Using 2 screw-type eye-bolts, I have an S-clip attached
to a chain [40 lb rating], and on the wall hanging from a single wall clip [like they use in
closet]. Anyway ... its just a test ... and it ain't pretty ... but seems to be working.

PL_PID_1000000311b.jpg

I still looking for the 'bestest' way

so ... with that ... I'm also looking at the ceiling clouds with couple of ideas I want to test.

For the corner chunk covers ... for some reason [probably because I saw this in the original
design that Glenn did for me] ... are the thin wood slats that Glenn did on the corner cover.

I am not sure [until testing] but I kinda would like to implement that idea ... cause it looks
good !!! Of course, this is 'treatment' area ... but I'd like to have a frame design
ready to handle this [if needed].

[gullfo]

you can use the French cleats with stand-offs to get your absorbers hung. for clouds - eye hooks with chain covered with a rubber tube works and can be adjusted to get angles etc.

[RJHollins]

ok ... apologies for bouncing around with different aspects of this project, please
bear with me

Looking at another idea for the corner traps.

Basically trying to accomplish several things.

1. Something that I can build
2. To insure that the 2" thick triangles [4 per 2'x4' sheet] are held in place AND at the
same time ...
3. Give me a way to mount the fabric covered frame [and possible wooden 'diffuser's'] onto.

Simply ... using 2"x2" screwed into the wall, with a 45 degree cut, placed at top, bottom
and middle. On the 'ends', I picked up some 'Industrial Strength' VELCRO ... whereby I can
stick the frame onto the wall.

If 'that' failed, I could add a small block of wood, secure a bolt in it, and with a hole drilled
into the cover frame, secure it with wing-nuts.

here's a pic

RJH - SuperChunk design idea - 2.jpg

RJH - SuperChunk design idea - 2b.jpg

I know that this raises potential flanking issues ... so I wanted to show this first.
It would be nice to be able to have move-ability of these corner pieces in case of repair,
or color change ... or soffit idea develops down the road.

hmm ... is it also recommended to have 'some' space off the floor ? that is, keeping this
rigid insulation 'suspended' ? better for trapping ??? better for air circulation [prevent
moisture [humidity] ??? i don't know ... just wondering.

More importantly ... what's this idea look like ... how would I improve on it ??

Thanks!!

oh ... Mill called .... they might have my door ready mid next week

[gullfo]

the triangles work to support the stack so it doesn't get too packed. another option is insulation hooks on the wall and using pink insulation batts vertically, then a 4" thick face of rigid insulation (vertical also) then the method Max described using 2 vertical strips for the cloth - then use a string top and bottom to support the edges there - without significant coupling.

-- or -- just go with your plan as you have it drawn. the coupling across the walls shouldn't represent a material defect in your space...

[RJHollins]

the triangles work to support the stack so it doesn't get too packed. another option is insulation hooks on the wall and using pink insulation batts vertically, then a 4" thick face of rigid insulation (vertical also) then the method Max described using 2 vertical strips for the cloth - then use a string top and bottom to support the edges there - without significant coupling.

-- or -- just go with your plan as you have it drawn. the coupling across the walls shouldn't represent a material defect in your space...

Hi Glenn,

Man ... I so much appreciate your patience & knowledge on ALL of this. Your guidance is
always teaching me. I DO know that I can over think on things I'm reminded of the
words of wisdom from either You or Andre, referring to, something like, 'what makes common
sense does NOT always apply to acoustics/ isolation'. [well .... it was something like that]

Everyday I try to go through the forum, here, reading what everyone else has going on with
their unique build. That is the LEAST I can do in my quest to learn & get a better understanding.
I confess ... it DOES get overwhelming ... then all the questions that come to mind.
None the least of which .... trying to organize a design [that may or not be influenced] by
available materials and/or operator SKILL levels to actually implement

I mean ... its fun ... [sorta] of course, I'd rather be working on some mastering project
for sure ... but I also don't want to screw up this build ... this is a big problem facing the
'grasshopper'. Years of 'experience' can also lead to Wisdom [which usually entails much
exposure to trial & error & study and redesign].

Ahhh ... all I'm trying to say is, thank-you for helping me avoid so many pitfalls & disasters.
This goes out to several very special people here thanks.

Sincerely