Basement recording studio in Columbus Ohio Build Diary

[gullfo]

i've used the decoupled bolt tactic in a number of studios and it seems to work. ideally you go with isolation brackets and do it right but many folks find the extra $/mount is more than they can budget, so using a neoprene "washer" and either wrapping the shank of the bolt with neoprene or a neoprene/foam tube, you can avoid most of the hard contact and then you tighten the bolt until you get it just snug enough to avoid most transfer. but not too tight, or to your point, you end up with things directly coupled... the treatment walls - you could free stand with a mount to the walls (a small frame will do it) or sometimes its easier to screw it top and bottom. i use both approaches. the frame method esp if i need to seal in cavities. most times the treatment walls are less weight and the extra anchoring is less of an issue.

[xSpace]

I like that. I wonder if it could be modified a bit to reduce the real ability of short circuiting under the present state.

The use of a foam sleeve isn't helping, period. And the neoprene washer, depending on friction and tension, can still slip. Well, the lug may not slip but the wall plate can move which makes this connection anemic.


Once the plate bolt diameter is determined, 1/2" may be a base line in this respect, the plate would be drilled out using a bit at least 1/4"-3/8" inch larger than this 1/2" inch bolt completely through the plate. If you would have the actual neoprene washer size, bore a hole in the plate to that size/diameter about, well, depending on the height either 1/2 the height or to a depth that matches the height of the neoprene washer.

We are trying to create a pocket for the neoprene washer to fit into in order to remove the ability of this technique mentioned previously, to short circuit over time.

What you wind up with is the neoprene washer is secured to the plate, if the plate moves the neoprene washer moves, and then the 1/2" red head or what ever is being prescribed, has room to move around without making a connection to the bore side wall, eliminating the foam, which is not doing much but making us feel good by prescribing it.


I sketched it up, but I think you can get it and may even understand how it will be a more effective connection...without any data that supports either one of us


Granted this connection is not to be used by everyone...It should still be either stamped or code approved depending on your geographical location.

[xSpace]

You hated my suggestion:(

[Esco]

Sorry all, I only have internet at work now So I'm going to do my best to do things the right way but with me not being able to get on and verify things as much it's gonna be hard. I will post pictures as things progress.

[Esco]

I have an issue… actually a few issues. I built the control room top and bottom walls and hammered the walls directly into the joists about 3 weeks ago. Well, when I went to correct the problem I realized that we used a rivet nail driver on the bottom of the 2x4 walls to shoot nails into my concrete to ensure that they don’t move…. Well the issue is that I can’t get the nails out.

So now I have the top wall (behind where the speakers and slats are) and the bottom wall where the hvac silencer will be stuck and I’m not able to move the 2x4’s.

Can I leave these two walls this way or is there anything I can do to eliminate sound transfer without having to tear them down??

[Soundman2020]

Photos? That would help to understand what you have done, and maybe figure out how to fix it.

- Stuart -

[Esco]

The Problem is that I don't have internet access at home and I can't upload photos at work.

[Esco]

Hey All. I figured out how to stablize my walls without touching the joists above. I got everything fixed. I have 2 questions: Does anyone have a good design for hvac sounproofing (box), and what is the typical size window to get for a recording studio to look from the control room to the booth?

[gullfo]

for your room - a window - something around 2'6"h by 3'6"w up to 3'h x 4'w - set low enough so you can be seated (in either room) and see each other... on the baffle box - since you have very limited space - a simple box with some small baffles and a low speed vent fan (pulling) should do it.

[Esco]

Any advice on where to get a fan? And will the neoprene work inside the baffle box?

[gullfo]

Panasonic sells a number of quiet fan units. here's one http://www.ventingdirect.com/panasonic- ... ct/p877543 another option - a multiple port unit and use flex duct through through the boxes.
if the neoprene is thin enough to wrap the fan unit in to keep it decoupled from the box, that would be good. lining the box should be duct liner which is a type of fiberglass with a coating which prevents it from shedding. or fiber glass wrapped in plastic will work.

[Esco]

Ok a few quick questions
It looks like the fan unit will be outside of the box? because the flex pipe comes outside of the picture and states that it is going to the fan unit. So where would it connect to the heating and cooling duct? From what I gathered a flex pipe comes from the hvac duct that I re routed to the baffle box. Then the fan blows the air from inside the bafllebox to the vent/ room.

I guess I just need clarification on the mechanics of the baffle box and instructions on what the airflow will do. Thanks!

[gullfo]

so, if you're planning on ducted HVAC, then one of the boxes would be the supply and one would be the return and you could tap them into the ducts with the appropriate zone and / or flow dampers to allow the studio to be heated/cooled independently of the operation for the rest of the house, and balance them into the system. in this case, i was suggesting you simply do an air exchange with the basement. you could put the fan unit in the box terminating the duct, or use a (or two) multiple port unit mounted on the ceiling to handle it. another option is a concealed duct unit to control the AC for both rooms and the air exchange - it's a small air handler on the ceiling and an external compressor unit.

[Esco]

Ok I see what you mean.

using proper isolation mounts is the best approach

I have decided to purchase isolation mounts instead of using the bolts of the plywood free standing walls. The reason I decided this is because with the door swinging open and closed it needs to be supported by something. Do you have any suggestions on what size and where to get the isolation mounts? I see a ton on the internet with all different sizes but can't figure out what ones to get. I have the bottom wall, right wall and top wall supported by the concrete walls so I won't need the isolation mounts for those walls. I do need then for the left wall (with the door and window) and 3 walls for the vocal booth (because the top wall in the booth will be supported by the concrete walls also. So I only need enough for 4 walls total.

We completed the left wall of the control room last night. We have the doorway and window framed. As I sat down and looked over the blueprints I came up with a few questions.

DavidEscobedo-Studio-v009-materials.jpg

Ok the top wall of the control room looks to have drywall over the inner frame then the speaker and slat area is built into the drywall? Am I seeing that right?

Also, will I need to do the ceiling before building the speaker/slat area?

Also between the Booth and CR will I drywall both outerwalls? I want to begin building the vocal booth tonight and I need to know if I have to drywall the outer walls. I can't tell by the picture.

I made the window 2'6 wide by 2'8 tall according to your sketchup framing file. Does this seem a bit small? It seems like it may need to be about 8 inches taller.

How would I do the rigid insulation at the top of the control room?

[gullfo]

I have the bottom wall, right wall and top wall supported by the concrete walls so I won't need the isolation mounts for those walls. I do need then for the left wall (with the door and window) and 3 walls for the vocal booth (because the top wall in the booth will be supported by the concrete walls also. So I only need enough for 4 walls total.

Ok the top wall of the control room looks to have drywall over the inner frame then the speaker and slat area is built into the drywall? Am I seeing that right?

Also, will I need to do the ceiling before building the speaker/slat area?

Also between the Booth and CR will I drywall both outerwalls? I want to begin building the vocal booth tonight and I need to know if I have to drywall the outer walls. I can't tell by the picture.

I made the window 2'6 wide by 2'8 tall according to your sketchup framing file. Does this seem a bit small? It seems like it may need to be about 8 inches taller.

How would I do the rigid insulation at the top of the control room?

you should use isolation brackets on the concrete side as well - mount angle brackets on the walls then attach. the isolator brackets also go between the CR and LR walls as well. you still need floor anchors unless your doing the top and bottom with the isolator brackets.

the rectangular outer frames support the 2x drywall layers on the inside of the frames (leaving maximum air gaps between them), on the outside (facing the rest of the basement) of the CR and the LR you need another 2 layers of drywall. on the exterior drywall, you could use isolation clips and hat channel to increase the TL. NO (as in none) drywall in the space between the CR and booth.

you build all the isolation first - ceiling with isolation clips and hat channel, interior walls, exterior walls (facing the open basement only - not between rooms and not between concrete and frame)) . then you'll build your soffits and treatments inside that.

on the angled window - you have the option of wrapping the drywall in from the isolation wall to encase the window, or putting the isolation window flush to the straight wall and adding a thinner plexiglass or real glass window on an angle (acoustic reflections). size wise, if you think it needs to be taller you could do that but consider your ducting soffit in the LR which is about 12" down from the inner ceiling you are creating.