SIMO Studio - Construction Phase

[simo]

Hi All,

...ok, another issue !

I purchased rubber strips (15mm thick) to install under the bottom plate of my walls, mostly to compensate for variations in level of my concrete floor (which in certain areas is quite uneven).
I thought I ordered strips adhesive on one side, but I've been delivered non-adhesive ones.

What do you recommend to use to glue the rubber below the bottom plates?

Many Thanks !

Ciao
Simo

[gullfo]

Rubber glue? Seriously, the pressure and floor anchors (which need to be decoupled from the floor and frame) should mostly hold it. You could get double sided tape (soft gummy type) to hold it while building.

[simo]

Thanks for your reply Glenn,

yes, as you said, it was just to hold it in place while moving the wall in position.

Being the wall very heavy, I thought it would be easier the have the rubber attached (even temporary) below it, instead of having it placed where it should be and then try to position the wall on top of it without the risk of slipping around

Thanks for the tip of using double sided tape , I'll try that.


Have a great week end!

Ciao
Simo

[xSpace]

a good adhesive caulk will hold it in place long enough for you to lift the walls.

[simo]

Thanks Brien for your advice,

Actually, the caulk I'm using is adhesive as well

IMG00051-20110206-1241.jpg

IMG00052-20110206-1243.jpg

IMG00053-20110206-1243.jpg

so I'll try to use that to see if it will hold the rubber in place whilst installing the walls (as I've already got it)…if it won't work I'll get some double sided tape, as kindly suggested by Glenn.


Today I installed the first layer of gyprock (Firestop).
I marked where the studs are to clearly see where to secure it with screws….

IMG00046-20110204-1754.jpg

…and here is how it looks finished

IMG00048-20110206-1210.jpg

IMG00050-20110206-1212.jpg

Q) Do I need to caulk between two sheets of gyprock and on the screw heads, or won't that be necessary (considering that another layer (Soundstop) will go on top of it) ?
(I will of course seal with caulk inside the cavity between studs all around them, when I will lift the walls up right !).

Many Thanks as usual


Ciao
Simo

[xSpace]

you should mud the screws and the joints...but that wall is going to be heavy as hell, how do you intend to lift it in place?

[simo]

Hi Brien,

I know ! it's VERY heavy indeed !
… the problem is that I'm doing the build on my own and to lift and hold in position the sheet rock whilst screwing it to the stud frame is quite difficult and I'm not sure if I would do the job as accurately as doing it having the frame on the floor.

This is my first finished wall and for this time I managed to recruit 3 friends of mine to come around to rescue me on Saturday, so (I hope) in four we "should " be able to lift it in place.

Then, if it proves to be too hard a job I'll think of an alternative…perhaps having the stud frame at circa 45 degrees (resting onto something like a pedestal / scaffold-ish-thingy)… a bit more tricky for me to install the sheet rock but less hassle to push the finished wall fully up right…. we'll see how it goes with this first wall.

Have a great day

Ciao

Simo

[simo]

Hi there,

I was looking around for a contact cement / adhesive to attach the insulation on the back of the plasterboard sheets on my inside-out wall costruction...and I just found this product:

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/42076/Sea ... ive-2-5Ltr


What do you reckon? Any other suggestions / alternative solutions?


Simo

[simo]

Hello!

Here's a little update of what's been happening around here:

- caulked joints and screws of first plasterboard (Firestop) layer

IMG00062-20110207-1423.jpg

- second plasterboard (Soundblock) layer installed…and caulked

IMG00072-20110210-1234.jpg

- insulation glued with contact adhesive (Very smelly!)

IMG00075-20110210-1832.jpg

IMG00083-20110212-1239.jpg

- …and time for lifting ! (we actually managed in two… nice to have friends bigger than me)

IMG00084-20110212-1511.jpg

IMG00087-20110214-1247.jpg

- wall bolted to the concrete floor, with 15mm neoprene rubber strip under it and with rubber washers (to minimise vibrations from transferring from the bolt to the stud)

IMG00090-20110214-1249.jpg

IMG00089-20110214-1248.jpg

made out of rubber strip off-cuts and then cut their depth in half

IMG00080-20110211-1608.jpg

[simo]

... and onwards with the second wall (front of Control room)

IMG00004-20110118-1405.jpg

IMG00094-20110215-1924.jpg

IMG00100-20110216-1633.jpg

IMG00101-20110217-1846.jpg

IMG00105-20110218-1702.jpg

IMG00107-20110219-1341.jpg

That's all for the moment

Until next time… Ciao and Be well !

Simo

[simo]

Hi,

...still me


Quick question.
My next wall will be the rear CR wall, where I need to pass the electric cable from the outside of the outer construction to the inside of my inner leaf (to connect it to a fuse box).

As I'm building the wall on the floor, I can easily seal the outer leaf where the cable penetrates it, from both outside and inside (as at this stage the inner leaf wall assembly is still laying on the floor).
Then I can pass the cable through the plasterboard (screwed on the back of my stud wall) and SEAL all around the cable….
…so at this point everything is totally sealed - fine !

Then, when I start lifting the wall up I would have to somehow pull the cable from the outside in order to shorten its length as the wall goes up and consequently closer to the ("inside face" of the) outer leaf.

My problem is:
How do I maintain the assembly sealed in the gap between inner and outer leaf (which will probably be compromised by me pulling the cable through)? I'm asking this because when the inner wall will be in its correct position (i.e. 10cm from the outer wall) I won't have access to the "points of penetrations" to re-seal them (?).

Of course, I can always re-seal properly the penetrations on the outside of the outer leaf and on the inside of the inner leaf… but I'm not sure if that would that be enough?

Any thoughts / suggestions ??

Really hope to hear from you very soon about that !!!


Thanks a lot as always !
Have a nice week end


Ciao
Simo

[gullfo]

sealing it from the inner leaf should suffice. one thought - you could make a small plate from neoprene and have a friction fit over the cable up to the wall and seal all around that.

[simo]

Thanks so much Glenn, much appreciated !

Great idea - I'll do that.

Have a nice day

Simo

[simo]

Hi there all,

it's been a while since my last post…. been busy between work and family, but I have managed to get ahead a bit.

Here are some pics of what has been going on:

Trimmed the wall by 5cm to get it down to 2.4m, to match the length of the plasterboard sheets:

IMG00111-20110220-1622.jpg

Firestop layer goes up:

IMG00113-20110221-1821.jpg

Soundstop layer next:

IMG00130-20110224-1059.jpg

Main cable gets fed through the plasterboard layers, with a "rubber plate" on the outer wall and on the back of the inner wall:

IMG00114-20110221-1852.jpg

IMG00128-20110224-1049.jpg

…and sealed:

IMG00129-20110224-1058.jpg

IMG00136-20110224-1219.jpg

Forth wall up (between Control room and Live room):

IMG00148-20110310-1317.jpg

IMG00154-20110314-1238.jpg

IMG00155-20110314-1239.jpg

.....to be continued ....

[simo]

…and here is where I am at:

IMG00165-20110314-1411.jpg

IMG00161-20110314-1410.jpg

IMG00164-20110314-1411.jpg

IMG00162-20110314-1410.jpg

Today I've been caulking, caulking, caulking (no pics of that at the moment though)

Next I will be doing the angled front left wall (coloured in red) and the bass traps on the rear corner.

CR 1.png

CR 2.png

My question is:
Would I get any benefit from having them resting on a rubber strip (as I've done on the other walls), or wont this be necessary in your opinion?

Many Thanks

Ciao !
Simo