how are you building your traps?

terrible_buddhist · Post by **terrible_buddhist** » Thu Feb 12, 2004 12:33 pm

I am curious...when you guys make your traps...both the rear wall and side wall absorbers...do you build them onto the wall...or attach them after?

dymaxian · Post by **dymaxian** » Thu Feb 12, 2004 2:15 pm

I've been building them separately, and attaching them to the walls later, but that's because I rent. If I was building a permanent studio, I'd build them into the walls. Either way works. Pick the one that's easiest for you.

Kase
www.minemusic.net

terrible_buddhist · Post by **terrible_buddhist** » Thu Feb 12, 2004 3:21 pm

how are you attaching them to the walls?

dymaxian · Post by **dymaxian** » Thu Feb 12, 2004 6:20 pm

If you're putting a solid back on panel traps, you can screw right thru it into the wall studs behind it. Just gotta line them up right. I'm not sure exactly HOW tight they need to be fastenend to the walls. Mine are just attached by two screws near the top of the traps.

Kase
www.minemusic.net

knightfly · Post by **knightfly** » Thu Feb 12, 2004 9:16 pm

That's all the fastening you need - the only requirement is that they are as close to the wall as you can get them, and that they don't RATTLE against anything. So if they touch the wall, it should be a SOLID connection - otherwise, just make the attachment so they don't fall over and you should be good... Steve

bassman · Post by **bassman** » Thu Mar 04, 2004 4:08 am

I've seen some plans for free standing soffits as well here. Is it possible to create a soffit mounted, RFZ control room in this way that was somewhat portable? Or at least not permanent. What might be comprimised in doing this?

I've been considering freestanding soffits but not sure.

-bassman

knightfly · Post by **knightfly** » Fri Mar 05, 2004 9:32 pm

This is part of a slide show presented to AES by Dave Moulton -

http://www.moultonlabs.com/slides/smallrooms/sld099.htm

if the side walls were a bit further apart, you could also put splayed false walls up the sides to accomplish RFZ on the sides. If there was ceiling room enough, you could span these false walls (the walls would need real frames of course) with joists and plywood to give a sloped ceiling effect - bass frequencies would ignore this almost entirely, but low mids on up would see the inner fake walls as the main boundaries.

You might even be able to do this with a "max-wall" kit, just adding a top cover with longer legs to your rear for a slope ceiling effect... Steve