any ideas for what kind of screws/anchors i should use to install shelving on my walls? its one layer of 5/8 drywall and light gauge metal studs. sorry if this is a dumb question. thanks in advance for any help.
securing shelves to 5/8 drywall w/metal studs
Originally posted at johnlsayers.com, topic 9992.
Shape, it isn't a dumb question - but it would have been even smarter if you had asked it BEFORE constructing your room. When framing is done with metal frame studs (even with heavy guage) it is customary to install blocking for a backer in any areas that one might want to attach things..... that is obviously impossible if the walls are already finished. I would guess (however) that isolation is not a big issue in your room - would this be correct? I await your reply. Sincerely, Rodany ideas for what kind of screws/anchors i should use to install shelving on my walls? its one layer of 5/8 drywall and light gauge metal studs. sorry if this is a dumb question. thanks in advance for any help.
actually, we haven't put up any drywall in the studio yet, but everything is framed. i live in the space, and my room is all painted and everything, but that room doesn't need a lot of isolation. so basically, i need to know the best way for both. for the studio, would you recommend installing a small block of wood behind the lip of the metal stud and then (after marking it's location) screw into it after the drywall is up? thanks for your help, both here and your book, which has saved me a lot of trouble so far.
Shape, Nlope - I would recommend that once you determine where you want the shelving - you put a row of 2x6 cross bracing (on the flat) all the way across at the height of the shelf top (to one bay each side of the shelf) And then add a 2nd row the same but at the bottom of the shelf brackets you are using. This way you can install your brackets anywhere you might want them (nd not be tied in to centering on studs - which usually don't layout symmetrically on a wall) & the added bracing will transfer some of the load to adjacent studs (which will go a long way when using light guage framing). You can do an easy little notch at the edges of the blocks to allow them to slide up flush with the face of the studs. Rodactually, we haven't put up any drywall in the studio yet, but everything is framed. i live in the space, and my room is all painted and everything, but that room doesn't need a lot of isolation. so basically, i need to know the best way for both. for the studio, would you recommend installing a small block of wood behind the lip of the metal stud and then (after marking it's location) screw into it after the drywall is up? thanks for your help, both here and your book, which has saved me a lot of trouble so far.