Small Room Considerations - Need Some Help!!!!

Hi all. First time post. Been thoroughly enjoying the wealth of information here though. It's done more to confuse me and increase my choices exponentially than anything else. :D Quick question concerning a small sound room in regard to the room ratios and subsequent sound treatment. I am building a stand-alone sound room in my garage. It is primarily going to be used as a drum room so that I can play more often without disturbing anyone. I am pretty comfortable with the sound "proofing" aspect of the room, but my main concern is with the internal sound response. Due to it being in my garage, I am very limited on size. Using a mode calculator, the two decent ratios I could come up with are: 1:1.40:1:90, which I've read is suppose to be one of the better ratios. At this ratio, the outer dimensions of the room will be 13'4" x 10'2" x 7',....the inner room dimensions will be 12'2" x 9' x 6'5". The other ratio is 1:1.50:2.10. This is with outer dimensions of 14'10" x 10'11.5" x 7' and inner dimensions of 13'6" x 9'7.5" x 6'5". Problem is I want to get as much out of the room as I can, but the second ratio is really pushing the limits of filling up my garage, which I still need to use for alot of other stuff (storage, etc....). I know that the recommended cubic footage is MUCH more than I can even come close to with the room size I am restricted to, so I guess my main question would be, with a room so small, does the mode ratio really play that big a role in how decent a sound I will be able to eventually get in the room with proper treatments? Should I just maximize the available room size and deal with any anomolies later through treatment???? I am going to be using the room in the beginning more for the sound isolation properties, but would like to eventually be able to use it to record my drums in and possibly jam with others in. Any words of advice to save time, money and sanity would be more than greatly appreciated. Sorry for the rambling post. TIA

Bill, did you take the time to look at the maximum size you could use and see how that ratio worked out as far as modal activity and as relates to other tested room ratios? Aside from the fact that you cannot legally use a room with only a 6'6" ceiling height (at least not anywhere in the US) even if you could - I wouldn't. If I had to make a choice in this case - I would maximize the ceiling height and work with what I had to when all else was said and done. Rod

Rod, I did a bunch of different modes but they were all roughly in between the two I showed. A foot here, a foot there, etc.... Those two were the closest I could find to listed good ratios. As far as the ceiling height,....I have to keep the garage door workable so at least a portion of the "roof" has to be under 7'1". I figured with roughly 7" joist/sheetrock, it would drop the inside ceiling level to about 6'6". I'm looking at raising about half the room's total height to 7'7", which would give me a ceiling height in that section of room of 7'. I don't know of any other way around having to keep my door opener functional and maintain clearance from the roof of the room. If I split the height of the room, do I just average the two different heights to use for the mode calculator? Not sure of what other options I really have. Thanks for the reply.

Bill B wrote:

As far as the ceiling height,....I have to keep the garage door workable so at least a portion of the "roof" has to be under 7'1". I figured with roughly 7" joist/sheetrock, it would drop the inside ceiling level to about 6'6". "

The building code doesn't say that you can't have a ceiling under 7'-6" unless you have a garage door opener that you want to keep, and then - "oh it's OK". It just says you can't do it - and then gives a few specific exceptions to that rule (none of which have to do with the necessity of keeping a garage door operable). You said:

I'm looking at raising about half the room's total height to 7'7", which would give me a ceiling height in that section of room of 7'. I don't know of any other way around having to keep my door opener functional and maintain clearance from the roof of the room.

Although the code does allow you to have a room with sloped ceilings (note the use of the word sloped) it is required for at least 1/2 of that to be 7'-6" - but no where does it allow for the use of horizontal celings (which are considered "0" (or "no") slope) to be installed which are less than 7'-6". But - even if it was sloped - the 50% rule still would not be met - because the min is 7'-6" - not 7'-0".

If I split the height of the room, do I just average the two different heights to use for the mode calculator?

This is the manner in which it is generally done -

Not sure of what other options I really have.

Well I would suggest that you loose the garage door opener and learn to live with what you have - or you forget about building in the space because you can't meet code. To be honest - a 2nd option does exist - which would be to apply for a modification to the code to allow for you to construct it in the manner you wish - this is always possible (unless I was the code official in your area anyway) - at which point in time you would be code compliant. But - without a modification on record - or the proscribed ceiling height (in either case you need a building permit on record) you are placing yourself at risk by doing it not only illegally by not pulling a permit - but then doubly so by also not meeting the minimum requirements proscribed by the building codes. This could create a nightmare should anything ever happen and your insurance company decides to drop your policy after a fire (or what ever) because you have installed an illegal room in your domicile which goes against the agreements you made when you obtained your insurance policy. Sorry buddy - I don't see any way to do it without a mod (which I would not grant you - and not because I am a prick - but becuase the codes are allready a minimum standard - not the gold standard - and I would never drop below that minimum). Sincerely, Rod

Let's get some more info regarding the door. Why does it have to be operable? Can it possibly operate in a different way? Like manual instead of automatic...or sliding instead of raised, etc. What's more important? A garage or practice space? If you want your cake and to eat it as well, you may need to cut down on some practice space real estate... You will see we need more info and maybe some pics to assess your situation. Also, keep in mind that the vison you have for your room will likely change multiple times as you get feedback and information and adjust your plan accordingly. Another thing- I wouldn't worry about room ratios as much as parallel walls- your room will be small and require massive amounts of bass trapping anyway...I think you need to focus on the logistics of the door and the room shape and forget room ratios for right now :)

Bill B wrote:

,....I have to keep the garage door workable ...

The thinking on this part of the build will have to be modified in order to continue with a successful job. I know that you know there are a lot of reasons for keeping this door. But it is in the way, the overhead track at least is. Is there any other way, any other door? You say it needs to be operable...what kind of vehicle will be using it? Could you make it(the garage door) part of the build, a facade, part of the exterior wall as many have done, and install an exterior door for entry?