Greeting to all members!
I am new here and will be getting to the details of my build shortly.
So far, I have been quite impressed with what I have seen on this site.
Keep up with the great information database people!
I have a million questions for you all, but I would like to start with a quick (and hopefully easy to answer) one.
From the back of my mind, I came up with a revolutionary and ingenious (self proclaimed) idea...I think...I hope...
Q: In lieu of placing the drywall directly onto my ceiling joists and wall framing, would placing strips of 1/8" thick rubber on the beams help alleviate sound transference through the wood and rest of the structure?
Please consider placing the drywall either directly onto the rubber strips OR placing the drywall onto resilient channelling.
I have done a lot research on this but have found nothing.
Is this a good idea or does it go against all laws of soundproofing?
Thanks to you all for your help!
Rubber Separations
Originally posted at johnlsayers.com, topic 9811.
http://www.asc-soundproof.com/index-walldamp.htm
Sorry- they beat you to it!
I seem to remember some discussion of this product here. Apparently there is no test data to back up their claims.
Usually only companies that publish test results are recommended here- for many reasons...
These products have been tested:
http://www.kineticsnoise.com/arch/isomax/index.aspx
http://www.greengluecompany.com
Good luck!
Understood. I will definately be looking into the Green Glue.
But...with all of that said and in your opinions, would neoprene rubber cut into strips and placed on the contact points of the drywall to the joists IMPEDE my construction at all?
I honestly believe that it would allow the material a little bit of jiggle room.
I ask this primarily for my ceiling as it is not that high and I am trying to save as much head space as possible...therefore, I would like to replace the RESILIANT CHANNELS with a good thick rubber (1/4" thick). I will use the RCs on the walls though.
If anyone else has any information on this based on experience, please let me know.
Very bad idea that is.......... first and foremost - you do not want dsrywall installed with a little bit of jiggle room......... What happens is that you develope nail pops (where the head of the nail pops throught the finish above) and broken tape seams all over the place. Drywall has to be installed properly - with the nails (or screws) firmly set - and then a small dimple in the paper - just enough to solidly lock it in - but not enough to create a tear in the paper face of the sheet. The same with subsequent sheets - Understand that all of the components that make up these assemblies have different expansive coefficiencies depending on themperatures - humidity, etc........ if a buling isn't built tighly to begin with - it can only get worse - and it will do that pretty fast. No - the other thng - the question of the value of the idea in general - I hope no hope that it would even come any where close to the value of even simple RC-1 - never mind anything more involved than that...... I would actually be suprised to see any value at all (when you compare tested true methods to these ideas) if you take into consideration the costs involved........ BTW - for what it's worth - this isn't really a new idea - been thought of - discussed - and shot in the head around here - although there are still some manufacturers putting mineral water into little bottles - selling it as snake oil and finding enough of the sheep willing to buy it to make it worth their bother to keep making it.......... Not because it works - but rather just because they can........... Sincerely RodI honestly believe that it would allow the material a little bit of jiggle room.