Control room treatment plan - need validation

I've been reading everything I can get my hands on in this forum for the last 6 months and it's been a tremendous help in the construction of my studio. I'm ready to begin constructing the acoustic treatments in my control room and I wanted to verify my approach before proceeding. The control room is 19'2"L x 13'8"W x 8'6"H. Construction wise, my rooms are isolated from the rest of the house with double stud walls, independently framed ceiling and double 5/8ths drywall everwhere. I plan to soffit mount my speakers using John's soffit design from the SAE site with bass trapping below the speakers for the front corners. The side walls will get slat resonator treatment for broadband absorption. Each wall will be angled approximately 7 degrees. The rear wall is where I'm getting hung up a bit. Despite my searches, I can't seem to find a definitive opinion. I'm trying to figure out if the superchunk method with fabric covering or John's corner bass trap with the wood slats is the way to go. Additionally, I'm trying to figure out the best way to treat the center of the rear wall. Assuming I use one of the previously described methods for the rear corners, which is the more appropriate method for the rear wall? 1) Frame out a wall 6-8 inches from the existing wall, install 703 into the new wall and cover it with fabric for a totally absorptive rear wall 2) Build a couple of broadband absorbers to hang on the rear wall 3) Take a diffusion approach. I have some diffusers from Auralex I could use. I also read in the forum about a cool approach using rounded, river rocks. I love the idea and look of the stone wall acting as a diffuser on the rear wall, but I'm not sure if that's the most effective approach given the size of my room. My specific questions: - What's the best approach for treating the rear corners? - Which of the 3 methods for the rear wall outlined above would be most appropriate? Is there another approach I should take? My contractor has his nail gun ready to go and is just waiting on my ok to move forward :-). I appreciate any input you can provide. Thanks, Jeff

based on my last experiments you should build two large panels across the two rear corners , at list 4 feet wide , at list 4 inc tick, at list 6 feet like a 4'x6', and diffusers starting in the center of the rear wall and eventually a l couch

Thanks for the feedback. I went ahead and put super chunks in both rear corners - floor to ceiling. I'm still a little undecided about what to do with the rear wall. For now, I'm planning to build a wall 8" off the interior wall, fill that with 4" OC 703 and cover it with fabric. That will give me a totally absorptive rear wall. Is that going to make things too dead? Is there a better approach? On a seperate, but related topic... My front corners will have soffit mounted speakers using John's design. He uses hanger in the bottom for bass trapping. Can you modify the design to use super chunks below the soffits instead? Jeff

welc

Personally, in a room that size, I'd probably go with a totally dead rear wall. Once you have that, you can put things in front of the wall (such as diffusors, or even just flat pieces of wood) if you want to add some high end reflections. But that much absorption back there will probably help the low end. It really depends on the overall design of the room. If you have splayed walls, for example, or something like John's angled slot resonators, a lot of sound will be reflected to the back wall. In this case I think heavy absorption in the back would make a lot of sense. I don't think you need to frame a wall 8" away, though. That's a lot of airspace. If you were to do that, you could perhaps put bass hangers in that 8" space, though they'd be kinda narrow, and then just line 703 between the studs. That's a pretty common approach as well. I do like superchunks in the corners, though.