Before I Move On: Am I Doing This Duct-Sofit Correctly?

Started by BradJacob on 8 November 2007. 10 replies. In the Library under Walls, floors and ceilings.

Originally posted at johnlsayers.com, topic 9728.

This initial post generated plenty of feedback and made me rethink my purpose. Initially, I wanted to "get by" with a simple build that would have yielded me poor isolation. This was due to money constraints and time. Now that my time budget was able to be extended and my financial budget was increased to double, I've re-did some things. I'm going to create a new (and proper) build thread, with all the appropriate information, goals, pictures etc... Before I begin this new thread, I wanted to make some progress and needed some opinions on a sofit wall that covers a duct. I read up on the FAQ section and think that I've figured out how to solve my problem. I have a double-wall in which I have two sliding glass doors that separate a live room and control room. In the live room there is duct under the joists that runs right across the room at the point where the ceiling meets the wall. Here is a couple pictures of this current room illustrating the duct's position. I read through some of the posts where another member had the same problem, and I believe it was Steve (knighfly) who gave him some guidance. And here are two drawings of what I plan on doing to solve the problem. I wanted to know everyone's opinion of what I plan on doing and if there was something I'm missing or doing wrong.
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Brad, If interested. 2 pictures of yours are on protected pages asking for a password and not showing up. Just looking at this forum page triggers that password window already. That's annoying, and people can't see what you intended them to see. Please check.
Brad - I'd do it like this. cheers john
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John - I appreciate you taking the time to respond to me! One detail I need clarification on: looking at the "left-side-scenario) of my drawing, I'll be framing out studs that drop down from the ceiling, so should I have one (that drops down from the ceiling track) AND screw it to the adjacent walls? Will I compromise any isolation by tying these studs into the side walls? Mind you, the side walls are attached to metal track that is screwed right to the wood joists. these joists run length-wise from control room to live room.
The framing from the floor to ceiling (to the right of the duct in your drawing) isn't decoupled? Same goes for the other room too I guess.. is that fastened to the ceiling? For the framing to the right of the duct, if it's not connected to the ceiling, then you might have problems with the weight of the drywall around the duct pulling the frame towards the floor. I used a RSIC clip to attach it to the concrete wall. Knightfly helped me out on this design and it seems to be working really well although it was a pain to do.. It might be hard to see in the picture, but I ran 2X6's in between the joists and then used these clips to attach the perpindicular framing in between the joists.... http://www.acousticalsurfaces.com/rsic_ ... b.htm?d=46 I think this way might save space too... give you a little extra room under the duct compared to what you have in the drawing.
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Brad - your wall frames should not be fully attached completely to the upper floor joists. Here's a pic of how you can do it with rubber and a bolt. cheers john
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John Sayers wrote:
Brad - your wall frames should not be fully attached completely to the upper floor joists. Here's a pic of how you can do it with rubber and a bolt. cheers john
Yeah, I know - they're already attached by shooting them into the concrete with a Hilti-Gun, and the upper track, is screwed into the wood joists. That's the ONE thing I know I did wrong, and at this point can really change it. Am I completely doomed?
OK - I'd continue the RC down the wall.
given you are using metal framing, you might be ok as the metal frame is generally more limp/less rigid than wooden framing. the hat channel on the ceiling though may be more problematic as you will not get as much isolation as if you had use RC-2 on it or RISC clips for the hat channel.
gullfo wrote:
given you are using metal framing, you might be ok as the metal frame is generally more limp/less rigid than wooden framing. the hat channel on the ceiling though may be more problematic as you will not get as much isolation as if you had use RC-2 on it or RISC clips for the hat channel.
Glen - no, I AM going to use the Isomax clips. I ordered a ton of them - and party because of your advise - thanks! :wink:
gullfo wrote:
given you are using metal framing, you might be ok as the metal frame is generally more limp/less rigid than wooden framing. the hat channel on the ceiling though may be more problematic as you will not get as much isolation as if you had use RC-2 on it or RISC clips for the hat channel.
Glen - no, I AM going to use the Isomax clips. I ordered a ton of them - and party because of your advise - thanks! :wink: