Staggered 2x3 studs?

Hello from Almonte, Ontario. I'm just wondering if you can hang drywall on 32" centers. Seems to me, if you stagger 2x3's instead of 2x4's, on 16" centers, you're eliminating vibrations transferred through the studs. I plan on using Roxul Safe'n'Sound, which unfortunately doesn't come in 12" widths, and nobody wants to cut that stuff anymore than they have to! I'd use metal studs, but these be load bearing walls, so I can't. Anyone? Thanks in advance, Rhythmrhymer

i think if you were to ask this in the construction forum you'll probably get a similar answer - load bearing? you'd want proper and full support. i don't see codes allowing 2x3 for load bearing purposes... Safe-n-Sound? maybe $$$ - consider using 5/8" drywall - $. for walls - don't stagger on a single plate - create 2 separate walls using 2x4 and 1" gap. thats 8" of air space between rooms... remember the insulation... if load bearing - 16" oc. if not, use 24" oc. why are you thinking you need to do a lot of cutting?

I realize the load bearing detriment of 2x3's, but there's a lot of support coming from 2x4 walls as well. Basically, there are 6 6'x8' cubicles, with a hall running between. That gives me a 2x4 wall an average of every 5', which easily meets code. I'm more concerned with sound control between rooms with shared walls, and I don't have the space to do double walls. So, I figured if drywall can hang on 32" centers, I'd stagger 2x3's on only these shared walls to control vibes transferred through studs. If I can't hang drywall on 32", then 24" it must be, and that makes for 12" Roxul which they don't make. I'd be slicing 4" off every single batt. and dat's dat. Rhythmrhymer

still not sure of the logic... if you have vertical wall studs on 24" centers, then you'd use 24" wide insulation... if you have only a single stud-width wall, then hang RC-1 on one side of it to decouple it - keep the 2x4 and skip the 2x3. use braces between the studs (cats) to reduce resonances and put the braces at different heights to avoid common resonances. the braces also hold up the batts... check the construction thread for links to the IR-761 documentation - it is your friend when determining wall construction...

My research has told me that resilient channel has a high fail rate, a pretty much definite one over time - and not to mention it's a pain in the butt to install. What I'm saying is why not stagger 2x3's on 32" centers on a 2x4 plate, filling the cavities with 16" Roxul. This should effectively decouple the wallboard, no? It makes sense to me, but you guys are the experts, and I'm all ears...

rhyth, could i suggest that you put up a crude sketch of what you are describing. I'm not sure I can follow a 2x3 stud wall either... I'm not sure what your trying to decouple at this point? Your talk of the RC does not effect your cutting issue? And if your walls are effectively on five foot intervals, then perhaps this particular wall is not load bearing after all. I would really encourage more details, preferably drawings or a sketch to help illustrate what your trying to convey. kevin

Will do! Immediately I gotta fly to a gig to take my new Gibson for a spin. Yippee! I'll post tomorrow. Later! rr

I believe this sketchup illustrates my meaning. Forgive the rawness. I'm much faster (and far more detailed!) with a pencil!

ok, based on your drawing i'd say the center wall where the ceiling joists are supported is most likely your load bearing wall (when in doubt have a structural engineer check it out). i see now, you want to put up 2x3 staggered on a 2x4 and spaced on 32" will effectively give you 16" between each which can be spanned by the 16" insulation to dampen each wall. this could work since the walls are simply partitions but keep in mind, that they may not be able to support a lot of weight (so I'd check with your local building official to find out what applicable codes there are) and also consider that the ceiling and floor can transmit sound, or if the ceiling overhead is open, allow a free path (and the 2x3 might not be able to support a tall wall). this may defeat the staggered wall construct anyways...

Thanks. I think it's worth a try, if, like you say it's structurally sound. In my mind it should be since there is effectively as much or more wood since your running 2x3's on 16's as opposed to 2x4's on 24's, but I'll speak with the inspector... Anyways, do you generally agree with my earlier statement re: RC? I admit the people who were knocking it were trying to sell me some very pricey drywall (Suppress)... like I say, I hear it works but is a pain to install, many installs go wrong, and it fails over time... randr

rhythmrhymer wrote:

Anyways, do you generally agree with my earlier statement re: RC?

nope i disagree. using the correct RC for the job always works. if you don't use RC-2 for heavy walls/ceiling then you run the risk of failure. if you use hat channel instead of RC you don't get any real isolation benefit. it sounds like the people with the high priced drywall are just using FUD to market their products. if RC was un-reliable it would most likely be banned (in the US at least) as a safety issue.

Good to know! Just for fun and prosperity, I'll build some of these common with RC, some with staggered 2x3s, and when it's done, will do some tests and post the results! Thanks for your help! rr